I too believe you to be fine with the RAD valve, i am running one with the power pros, and 35mm carb!
f7 or dynoport
- Thread starter blasty 95
- Start date
I too believe you to be fine with the RAD valve, i am running one with the power pros, and 35mm carb!
I purchased some clear header paint (the 1,500F kind) for my headpipe but it rusted from the humidity in NC in august before I could coat it good so I just sprayed it silver.
I was thinking about sand blasting it back down and repainted it clear. The only trouble is, anywhere the paint gets hit, it's going to rust immediately...
I was thinking about sand blasting it back down and repainted it clear. The only trouble is, anywhere the paint gets hit, it's going to rust immediately...
I luv that bare look too, especially on the hand built, individual cone pipes !
Wonder if there is a high temp clear paint ?
The problem with the 1,500°F paint is the "curing process".
It needs a certain amount of time to naturally dry (to allow the thinners to evaporate naturally) and then has to be cured at high temperature to set the chemical.
The process generally doesn't allow for any mistakes...
It needs a certain amount of time to naturally dry (to allow the thinners to evaporate naturally) and then has to be cured at high temperature to set the chemical.
The process generally doesn't allow for any mistakes...
i thought i heard the ceramic coating holds the heat in and does positivley effect performance ????
It CAN positively affect performance IF the pipe design is condusive.
The divergent, main body, and convergent sections of the pipe aren't there for gas "flow". They're there to harness the energy of sound waves to affect the flow in the headpipe section (the straight section that comes off the cylinder).
The problem with blankly assuming that a higher temperature gas is inherently better is that changing the temperature of the gas inside the pipe is going to affect the speed of sound in that gas. The speed of sound is going to affect the effective tune of those sound waves inside the head pipe. POSSIBLY for the better, and POSSIBLY for the worse. Taking a pipe which is PERFECT for a given rpm range built engine and ceramic coating the pipe will change the tuned range. Taking a pipe which is not PERFECT for a particular engine and ceramic coating it could change the tuned range for the better.
Taking a pipe not designed for a ceramic coating and coating it may make it worse than without the coating.
I can tell you one thing about ceramic coating an exhaust system.... your legs will feel better off for it.
I have to agree with slick and AWK and like I stated in the dynoport vs toomey thread. Valley Cycles customer service sucks. Also as I stated Rich at dynoport is a great guy to deal with and shoots it straight, Im glad you called him Blasty.
Mine is ceramic coated, but like SI said you will be fine shooting it with high temp, even clear if you like the bare metal look.
Lastly, ever since I got my dynoport I've been a believer. Hand built for you, and it is a beautiful pipe. You get what you pay for, and I've learned that the hard way all through my build. I don't mess around anymore, If I get something for a deal, I always end up selling it and buying what I really want in the end.
My advice, buy a dynoport, you have been askin and wantin one for months. Save the extra money get it ceramic coated, so you aint kickin yourself after you put twenty+ dollars into good high temp paint and take the time to paint it, just for it to not look as good as the seventy five you could have paid to have it ceramic coated (and they are very, very well done), It is well worth it.
My .02$
Mine is ceramic coated, but like SI said you will be fine shooting it with high temp, even clear if you like the bare metal look.
Lastly, ever since I got my dynoport I've been a believer. Hand built for you, and it is a beautiful pipe. You get what you pay for, and I've learned that the hard way all through my build. I don't mess around anymore, If I get something for a deal, I always end up selling it and buying what I really want in the end.
My advice, buy a dynoport, you have been askin and wantin one for months. Save the extra money get it ceramic coated, so you aint kickin yourself after you put twenty+ dollars into good high temp paint and take the time to paint it, just for it to not look as good as the seventy five you could have paid to have it ceramic coated (and they are very, very well done), It is well worth it.
My .02$
high temp clear coat COULD work if applied properly. It's still going to be more likely to be damaged than something like chrome and nickel coating.
i'd say thats sand/drag based
you'd need to completely clean all mud/dirt off, then completely dry it after everyride, for any oil to work on a trail machine
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