Engine Troubles?

[ESC.907]

Okay, so I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to being a motorhead...

I bought a Blaster from a kid who says he bought it from a racer a few years before and it hasn't run in two years or so. But he says it's an '03 model and I've been trying to work on it this past summer.

I now have it idling fine, but after it's warmed up it chokes when given much more gas than idle. I'm posted a video of it on youtube.

Blaster Engine Trouble - YouTube

 

[Blaaster]

Is the parking brake off?

 

[8urvet]

Sounds like mine did when the T.O.R.S. system was messing up

 

[dirtysquared]

Try disconnecting the parking brake and disableing the TORS system.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/03-06-tors-removal-diy-41973/

Follow those instructions for tors, and just follow the e-brake plug back under the hood and disconnect it.

Let us know if that helps.
Fred

 

[bummer981]

Have you given your carb a good cleaning. After sitting for a while the fuel tends to break down and gum up, which can easily plug your jets.

http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/

 

[ESC.907]

Okay, I've already disabled the TORS, bought a new Carb with a TORS eliminator. As for the Parking Brake, pretty sure it's off.

How would the Parking Brake affect the idle and running anyways?

REALLY glad to see feedback. Thanks everybody!

 

[dirtysquared]

My 05 would not even spark untill the parking brake was disconnected. The cdi thinks its set and will not allow spark. YOu have to dissconnect the wires, not just the parking brake cable. On the Tors on 03-06 blasters, the wires need looped back to the CDI to make it think the circuit is complete. Needs done under the hood, and back near the carb on the wires that you disconnected.
Put a list of what all mods you have on the bike.

 

[ESC.907]

My 05 would not even spark untill the parking brake was disconnected. The cdi thinks its set and will not allow spark. YOu have to dissconnect the wires, not just the parking brake cable. On the Tors on 03-06 blasters, the wires need looped back to the CDI to make it think the circuit is complete. Needs done under the hood, and back near the carb on the wires that you disconnected.
Put a list of what all mods you have on the bike.

Alright. I installed a Carb w/ a TORS Eliminator, clipped the wire that went to the electric kill-switch-button on the throttle, and clipped the wire that went to the TORS itself. Both sets were stripped, intertwined, and electrical taped afterwards (on the side of the clip nearest the ECU).
As for the parking break, I'm more than sure it's disengaged, as the little tab isn't over the button above the lever.

As per the Mods, I'm not too sure what else there may be, though I believe that the pipe isn't stock, and I know that the oil-injection has been removed.

 

[gb blaster]

Alright. I installed a Carb w/ a TORS Eliminator, clipped the wire that went to the electric kill-switch-button on the throttle, and clipped the wire that went to the TORS itself. Both sets were stripped, intertwined, and electrical taped afterwards (on the side of the clip nearest the ECU).
As for the parking break, I'm more than sure it's disengaged, as the little tab isn't over the button above the lever.

As per the Mods, I'm not too sure what else there may be, though I believe that the pipe isn't stock, and I know that the oil-injection has been removed.

Pic of the pipe up close? What carb and jet did you change to? If you have a stock carb with stock jetting, running a aftermarket pipe and premixing that would be bad you could be dangerously lean.

By the video from what I see that could be a fmf. The silencer kinda looks like it, either way I don't believe that it's stock.

Also the parking break can be disengaged physical and still cause problems! That's why a lot of people have to delete them.

 

[dirtysquared]

Did you find anything else out? Keep us updated!

 

[ESC.907]

Pic of the pipe up close? What carb and jet did you change to? If you have a stock carb with stock jetting, running a aftermarket pipe and premixing that would be bad you could be dangerously lean.

By the video from what I see that could be a fmf. The silencer kinda looks like it, either way I don't believe that it's stock.

Also the parking break can be disengaged physical and still cause problems! That's why a lot of people have to delete them.

Alright, here's photos of the Pipe, and the Carb & clipped TORS-Brick Wires. I also have the wires from the Throttle-kill-switch treated similarly. As for the jets, my motor-headed friend examined the main and said he believes it was 240.

Anyone else ever have their machine sound like mine and solve it? If so, how?

 

[Blaaster]

Pics no work.

Even the least power gain pipe will call for at least a #250 main jet and with 32:1 pre mix, one size larger.

 

[ESC.907]

Alright! Thank you all for the help, but now everyone can GO HOME!

I finally got it running smoothly, and after weeks of tinkering with the idle and TORS system, I discovered tonight that all I needed to do was unplug the Parking Brake.

Again, thank you ALL for your contributions to my newly found knowledge on how to trouble-shoot my Yamaha Blaster. It's people like you that have helped me hold on to hope that my machine might run again & also helped me maintain my sanity with a goal to strive for.I:I

 

[Blaaster]

Time now to investigate what jetting is best.

A #240 main jet is too small for any sort of aftermarket pipe.

You may consider changing to a #270 main and plug chopping.

A motor running slightly on the lean side (which I suspect you are) will perform very well on a leaner than optium mix , but will soon fry the piston.

 

[ESC.907]

Fingers crossed...

 

[bummer981]

Have some repuataion also called green for reporting back.

You have a right bend pipe on your quad one of the best for increased power. It is definately aftermarket and calls for a larger main jet. The pipe with your injector blocked off may call for up to a 290 or 300 main. If you are running no air box lid possibly higher. Of course plug chopping to confirm jetting is always recommended.

 

[dirtysquared]

Glad it's running. Like Blaaster suggests, Get the jetting on, and go enjoy it!
Fred

 

[Racer51]

Also watching the vid for 10 sec i can tell thats an LRD top end pipe a very lucky find expecially for the low price you probably paid for it (cause I assume he couldent get it to run right and got frustrated and sold it) nice bike have some rep

 

[ESC.907]

Alright all, got it running, looked at the new Carb. and it was jetted @ 230, changed to the 260 the Carb. that the machine initially came with and did a Plug Chop (WOT for~1.5-2 mi.) @ a 32/1 ratio. Here's the results! I'd say a bit on the lean-hot side, but I'm a noob...

 

[Blaaster]

That plug looks like it is being fried, do not run that jetting!

List all your mods, air filter, air box lid, and a ball park figure will be offered.
Again, do not run the motor with a #260, it is dangerously too lean.

--------------------------------------------------------

Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.

WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/

This is a good to go plug.

This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.