Engine question

Sure. Have the sleeve bored all the way out and press in a new stock bore sleeve or buy a new cylinder. Either way is too expensive for nothing more than bragging rights that it's on the stock bore.

What in the world would possess you to have the desire to accomplish such a task? Drugs?
 
If you are counting 1/4 MM increments >>> example... 66mm, 66.25mm, 66.75mm, etc , ...If I'm correct, I believe you can take a stock Blaster jug to 68.50mm. That depends on the manufacture of the piston. Wiseco does 1/4mm increments. Pro X does 1/4 mm increments. WMS does 1/4mm increments. Namura does 1/2mm increments, just to name a few. Want to go back to 66mm? Get a OEM Yamaha jug.
 
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If you are counting 1/4 MM increments >>> example... 66mm, 66.25mm, 66.75mm, etc , ...If I'm correct, I believe you can take a stock Blaster jug to 68.50mm. That depends on the manufacture of the piston. Wiseco does 1/4mm increments. Pro X does 1/4 mm increments. WMS does 1/4mm increments. Namura does 1/2mm increments, just to name a few. Want to go back to 66mm? Get a OEM Yamaha jug.
Thanks joeAk47
 
Sure. Have the sleeve bored all the way out and press in a new stock bore sleeve or buy a new cylinder. Either way is too expensive for nothing more than bragging rights that it's on the stock bore.

What in the world would possess you to have the desire to accomplish such a task? Drugs?
For 1 I don't need to brag and can't see why someone needs to brag for stupid sh*t like that.2 and no I'm not on drugs just trying to learn as I am new to riding quads.but thanx anyway for you useless reply.and God bless you
 
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Useless? I am the only one in this thread that explained in exact detail the only ways possible to get your Blaster back to stock bore. Once you machine the metal away, you can't just put it back. Now, humor me and explain how or why you came up with the concept of wanting to go back to stock bore. Is it because you have some misguided illusion that stock bore is more reliable than an overbore? Is it because you want a true 100% restoration and never plan on riding it?
 
Just trying to learn some things .you don't have to answer with smart remarks go to hell suck a dick
 
And your a forum supporter wow what an ahole of supporter
Dont give him a reason to continue bothering you. just ignore him.

Useless? I am the only one in this thread that explained in exact detail the only ways possible to get your Blaster back to stock bore. Once you machine the metal away, you can't just put it back. Now, humor me and explain how or why you came up with the concept of wanting to go back to stock bore. Is it because you have some misguided illusion that stock bore is more reliable than an overbore? Is it because you want a true 100% restoration and never plan on riding it?
And bluesclues, who cares why he wants to do it. a question is a question.
 
WOW, that certainly escalated.

One more tidbit of help, and then I'm done with you.

In your "engine swap help" thread, if you would have posted, "I have an 02 Blaster with a bent frame. I found an 03 frame. Will everything swap over?", here's the answer you would have received.

No, The nose plastic will not fit and your cable rear brake will not work with the 03 frame. If you want rear brakes, you will either have to weld the cable mount to the 03 frame or you will have to do a full rear hydraulic conversion.

But instead, you posted a vague question and got a generic answer.
 
Vertex pistons are also very high quality and they come in 1/4mm increments. Athena brand pistons which are also forged pistons like wiseco pistons, come in 1/4mm increments/ sizes. I prefer cast pistons, but that's me. I'm not a big fan of forged pistons. Just my opinion. One other thing when it comes to piston weight. A wiseco piston is no lighter in weight than a cast piston. I know, I weighed them. So... don't fall for the "pro-lite" advertisement.
 
Don't forget Wossner.. Not sure if they make any in the standard 66-68mm bore but they do for the big bores.