CLUTCH HOLDER TOOL
All you need is two clutch plates. Old worn out ones work fine if you have them or you can buy new ones.
1 metal
1 friction
Start by removing the pressure plate and all of the clutch plates
Put the 1 metal and 1 friction plate back into the clutch basket.
Now simply drill a couple of holes through both plates across from each other (put a small piece of wood behind it so you don't go through and drill into the basket
Then using a steel pop rivets or small machine screws, rivet or bolt the plates together.
That’s it
Now to use the tool all you need to do is remove the clutch plates slide the plates bolted together into the basket and it will stop the hub from spinning while you are removing or installing the clutch nut.
When your done hang the tool back on your wall until next time
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FLY WHEEL HOLDER TOOL
To make this handy little tool you will need
A piece of 3/4" or 1" wide flat bar steel at least 30"- 36" long. (The longer the better)
Four 1/4" bolts at least 1" long
Six 1/4" nuts
1/4" drill bit and a drill
#1 cut two pieces of the flat bar 15" long (you can make it shorter if you want but it makes it a lot harder to hold)
#2 cut another piece 6" long
#3 drill a hole 1/2" from each end of each piece of flat bar
#4 drill a hole 6" from then end in each of the two 15" long pieces.
Now bolt it altogether like in the pic. Use two of the nuts as spacers between the 15" pieces. This will allow the flywheel holder to be adjustable for any size of flywheel.
When it's done it should look something like this (keep in mind I welded mine together instead of using nuts)
To use the flywheel holder simply insert the two bolts on the end into the two holes on the front of the flywheel to hold it from turning while you loosen and tighten the flywheel nut.
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4o TIMING ADVACNCE MOD
This mod will advance the timing 4 degrees and costs nothing
To do the job properly you will need...
A flywheel puller, torque wrench and flywheel holder.
#1 Unplug the connections for the stator wires behind the frame tube next to the CARB.
#2 Remove the stator cover
#3 Remove the flywheel and keyway.
#4 Mark the original stator position with a scribe as in the pic (the red line marks the stock timing location)
#5 Next remove the stator plate by removing the two mounting bolts
#6 using a scribe measure and scribe a line 3mm to the left of the mounting hole location. This will give you a 4 degree timing advance.
#7 Using a round file or a grinding bit in a dremal tool widen the mounting holes 3mm to the line you just made.
#8 reinstall the stator plate and measure the marks you made in step #4 and make sure the plate can now be turned 3mm.
If you wish you can slot the stator both to the left and right so it's possible to retard the timing for custom applications.
« Last Edit: Mar 7, 2004, 2:14am by YFS101 » Link to Post - Back to Top Logged
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve L (HardlyDangerous)
YZ 400. Renthal bars, Boyesen power reeds, Uni filter. Yes it's fast, no you can't ride it
http://gallery.roeiboot.com/HardlyDangerous
All you need is two clutch plates. Old worn out ones work fine if you have them or you can buy new ones.
1 metal
1 friction
Start by removing the pressure plate and all of the clutch plates
Put the 1 metal and 1 friction plate back into the clutch basket.
Now simply drill a couple of holes through both plates across from each other (put a small piece of wood behind it so you don't go through and drill into the basket
Then using a steel pop rivets or small machine screws, rivet or bolt the plates together.
That’s it
Now to use the tool all you need to do is remove the clutch plates slide the plates bolted together into the basket and it will stop the hub from spinning while you are removing or installing the clutch nut.
When your done hang the tool back on your wall until next time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
FLY WHEEL HOLDER TOOL
To make this handy little tool you will need
A piece of 3/4" or 1" wide flat bar steel at least 30"- 36" long. (The longer the better)
Four 1/4" bolts at least 1" long
Six 1/4" nuts
1/4" drill bit and a drill
#1 cut two pieces of the flat bar 15" long (you can make it shorter if you want but it makes it a lot harder to hold)
#2 cut another piece 6" long
#3 drill a hole 1/2" from each end of each piece of flat bar
#4 drill a hole 6" from then end in each of the two 15" long pieces.
Now bolt it altogether like in the pic. Use two of the nuts as spacers between the 15" pieces. This will allow the flywheel holder to be adjustable for any size of flywheel.
When it's done it should look something like this (keep in mind I welded mine together instead of using nuts)
To use the flywheel holder simply insert the two bolts on the end into the two holes on the front of the flywheel to hold it from turning while you loosen and tighten the flywheel nut.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
4o TIMING ADVACNCE MOD
This mod will advance the timing 4 degrees and costs nothing
To do the job properly you will need...
A flywheel puller, torque wrench and flywheel holder.
#1 Unplug the connections for the stator wires behind the frame tube next to the CARB.
#2 Remove the stator cover
#3 Remove the flywheel and keyway.
#4 Mark the original stator position with a scribe as in the pic (the red line marks the stock timing location)
#5 Next remove the stator plate by removing the two mounting bolts
#6 using a scribe measure and scribe a line 3mm to the left of the mounting hole location. This will give you a 4 degree timing advance.
#7 Using a round file or a grinding bit in a dremal tool widen the mounting holes 3mm to the line you just made.
#8 reinstall the stator plate and measure the marks you made in step #4 and make sure the plate can now be turned 3mm.
If you wish you can slot the stator both to the left and right so it's possible to retard the timing for custom applications.
« Last Edit: Mar 7, 2004, 2:14am by YFS101 » Link to Post - Back to Top Logged
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve L (HardlyDangerous)
YZ 400. Renthal bars, Boyesen power reeds, Uni filter. Yes it's fast, no you can't ride it
http://gallery.roeiboot.com/HardlyDangerous
