couple issues
- Thread starter brianfulcher15
- Start date
Were Gona have to start another thead about what plug to use .. Lol
I'd say you got a bad lookin plug in the pics
How long have you been running on that one ?
I'd say you got a bad lookin plug in the pics
How long have you been running on that one ?
the plug came with the engine from 1bad442.
im gonig to pull the carb off and redo the gaskets on them tomorrow. it may have an air leak since i put the vitos spacer on today. What kind of gasket material do i need for these? i was wanting to just use dome of the tube stuff since no atv store within 50 miles
im gonig to pull the carb off and redo the gaskets on them tomorrow. it may have an air leak since i put the vitos spacer on today. What kind of gasket material do i need for these? i was wanting to just use dome of the tube stuff since no atv store within 50 miles
Plug looks a little lean... Yeah, check the reed gaskets for an air leak. It shouldn't be lean due to jetting. You CAN use Permatex gasket maker in a tube, but I would just order a few new gaskets and have them delivered. It sucks not having parts readily available, but I don't trust just liquid gasket where there should be a real one from the factory. My .02.
wheres a good place to get a gasket at? I'll just use the 2 paper ones that came with the vitos, so i only need one gasket.
the one on the rubber pice to the cage was liquid to start with so that may be my problem.
also on my carb, whats the most i should expect to have to turn the Idel screw out? i turned it out about 2.5 turns and it seemed to stay running the longest there.
but that feels to far out. i was expecting 1.5 turns max.
what pulgs shoudl i buy for it? Im goign to buy a box of them, and what gap should i use on them?
the one on the rubber pice to the cage was liquid to start with so that may be my problem.
also on my carb, whats the most i should expect to have to turn the Idel screw out? i turned it out about 2.5 turns and it seemed to stay running the longest there.
but that feels to far out. i was expecting 1.5 turns max.
what pulgs shoudl i buy for it? Im goign to buy a box of them, and what gap should i use on them?
You can get new gaskets from ebay or bikebandit.com. From the factory, there is no gasket between the stock intake boot and the reed cage, but if you use a reed spacer, you will need a gasket.
The stock intake boot has a 'crush ring' around it that is designed to seal the boot against the reed cage. If you find sealant around the intake boot like you did, it may be a sign that somebody has tried to fix an air leak there.
2.5 turns out on the airscrew is OK. It just means that your pilot jet is a bit rich. You can change that out later, once you get the engine running properly. The farther in you turn the airscrew, the richer the idle mix becomes. I generally don't turn an airscrew out more than 3 turns, if only because it is so far out that vibration can cause it to back all the way out and fall out on the trails.
Get a box of NGK B8ES or BR8ES plugs. The 'R' stands for 'Resistor'. You don't have to have a resistor spark plug, but it is OK to run one. Take your pick. Gap is .028"-.030".
If I were you, I'd get a cylinder leakdown tester from Holeshotman on here. PM him and order one. There are plenty of threads on how to use it. This will take ALL the guesswork out of sealing up air leaks, and may well save your top end from blowing due to running lean.
The stock intake boot has a 'crush ring' around it that is designed to seal the boot against the reed cage. If you find sealant around the intake boot like you did, it may be a sign that somebody has tried to fix an air leak there.
2.5 turns out on the airscrew is OK. It just means that your pilot jet is a bit rich. You can change that out later, once you get the engine running properly. The farther in you turn the airscrew, the richer the idle mix becomes. I generally don't turn an airscrew out more than 3 turns, if only because it is so far out that vibration can cause it to back all the way out and fall out on the trails.
Get a box of NGK B8ES or BR8ES plugs. The 'R' stands for 'Resistor'. You don't have to have a resistor spark plug, but it is OK to run one. Take your pick. Gap is .028"-.030".
If I were you, I'd get a cylinder leakdown tester from Holeshotman on here. PM him and order one. There are plenty of threads on how to use it. This will take ALL the guesswork out of sealing up air leaks, and may well save your top end from blowing due to running lean.
so would it hurt to use a gasket between the boot and reed cage i have an extra one from a topend kit. its used on th eold engine that blowed less than 1 hour, as well as another stock boot.
here's a pic of the boot that came on the new engine
heres a pic of my old OEM boot
here's a pic of the reeds from the new engine, they are c/f not sure what brand though.
mine has the oem reeds so im thinking of using my OEM cage, and boot. and the reeds from the new engine.
and puting 3 gaskets in them unless this would cause an air leak in the boot. does this sound like a good plan?
here's a pic of the boot that came on the new engine
heres a pic of my old OEM boot
here's a pic of the reeds from the new engine, they are c/f not sure what brand though.
mine has the oem reeds so im thinking of using my OEM cage, and boot. and the reeds from the new engine.
and puting 3 gaskets in them unless this would cause an air leak in the boot. does this sound like a good plan?
also, here is a picture of the reeds, one is not siting perfectly flat against the cage. could this be the cause of my problem?
what i meant is that if a tiny chip will make it run bad that huge gap probably wont even let it start. that is almost def ur issue
i was afraid of that 
I guess i'll try my OEM reeds on it fromt he old engine. they are really dirty but maybe they'll clean up.
if they dont work ill just purchase the v force 3.
I guess i'll try my OEM reeds on it fromt he old engine. they are really dirty but maybe they'll clean up.if they dont work ill just purchase the v force 3.
ok here's how it looks with the stock ones, perfectly flat so i guess these are better.
Much better! That huge gap in the reeds in the first pic WILL prevent the engine from even starting. The new cage in this pic should solve the problem.
No difference in sparkplugs; the resistor is in there to prevent the spark from the plug from causing electronic interference. With stuff like GPS, TV, etc.. Not an issue on an ATV. Just run the regular B8ES Plugs like you got.
Add that extra gasket; that way you can be sure you have a good seal between the intake boot and reed cage. VF3 reeds already call for a gasket here; it is OK to update the stock cage with a gasket as well.
you can also take the reeds off and flip them over to get them to sit flat. and if no one has mentioned it use lock tite on those threads so you don't end up with one of those screws ditroyin your piston
Yes! Just thought I'd clarify a little, though... Loctite is a MUST on the small screws which retain the reeds. However, do not Loctite the 4 large bolts which hold the reed cage/intake boot to the jug. These bolts get stuck often enough without putting something on the threads to hold them in place.
ok well now its not starting at all.....
New plug
new reeds
all new gaskets
It took about 20 kicks and nothing.
a couple times i let it sit and kicked it and it started up give it a little gas bogs down and dies.
New plug
new reeds
all new gaskets
It took about 20 kicks and nothing.
a couple times i let it sit and kicked it and it started up give it a little gas bogs down and dies.
