Another tip for you, if the engine looses pressure and you cannot find it by spraying soapy water, the leak is at the flywheel side crank seal.
Carb query
- Thread starter Dic
- Start date
yep, need to test my tester first...........thats the homemade one using table leg rubbers
works a treat tho
anyway leak test done, industion leak, now fixed. 7 psi for 30 minutes. no drop off
running alot better but still rough and no idle
took for run, came back, damp and black spark plug
cleaned it up and popped back in
removed air filter, ran again for about 3 km
much better but not right
plug was less black and less wet
then as it was standing there, fuel out of the overflow, so back to adjusting float height again
guess above symptoms are result of wrong float height too
more news when I have time to pull the flippin carb off again
seems to be getting quicker everytime I fiddle so maybe one day it will be what I thought it was going to be
works a treat tho
anyway leak test done, industion leak, now fixed. 7 psi for 30 minutes. no drop off
running alot better but still rough and no idle
took for run, came back, damp and black spark plug
cleaned it up and popped back in
removed air filter, ran again for about 3 km
much better but not right
plug was less black and less wet
then as it was standing there, fuel out of the overflow, so back to adjusting float height again
guess above symptoms are result of wrong float height too
more news when I have time to pull the flippin carb off again
seems to be getting quicker everytime I fiddle so maybe one day it will be what I thought it was going to be
You may too have a poor or dirty needle and seat.
Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.
you want to turn the carb and hold it on a slight angle to measure the float height
it should just barely be touching the inner needle, not depressing it,
It is possible to check the fuel level by attaching a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain nipple , lifting it up the side of the carby, and cracking the drain screw.
The fuel should show in the pipe to the level of the carb body above the float bowl gasket.
Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.
you want to turn the carb and hold it on a slight angle to measure the float height
it should just barely be touching the inner needle, not depressing it,
It is possible to check the fuel level by attaching a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain nipple , lifting it up the side of the carby, and cracking the drain screw.
The fuel should show in the pipe to the level of the carb body above the float bowl gasket.
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thanks for advice Merc. was only to test a theory but good advice non the less
Blaaster, when the line is attatched to the drain nipple, what sort of height on the outside of the carb should it be level with
the carb has been stripped, cleaned, new seals gaskets, jets etc etc from a standard kit from Moose, so that should be ok
I think the floats maybe a little bent, but will check
Blaaster, when the line is attatched to the drain nipple, what sort of height on the outside of the carb should it be level with
the carb has been stripped, cleaned, new seals gaskets, jets etc etc from a standard kit from Moose, so that should be ok
I think the floats maybe a little bent, but will check
it sat for 4 years,wow,are you sure animals did not make a home in your exhaust?
is it stock exhaust?
is the plug boot rusty,inside?
is it stock exhaust?
is the plug boot rusty,inside?
nahhh, got the mice out the exhaust. showed it to a cat, but it is clear
it's not stock exhaust, but it has been chopped to fit, but have standard one too
plug boot is fine
being in a barn and in a hot country it's not so bad
Beware if it is a pipe that has been modified it may not suit the kinetic energy produced by a 200cc engine.
You may need to plug chop to confirm jetting!
The level of the fuel should be at the midway point of the carb bottom above the float bowl gasket.
You may need to plug chop to confirm jetting!
The level of the fuel should be at the midway point of the carb bottom above the float bowl gasket.
The hacked up pipe could be the whole issue, with out a pipe that designed an tuned specifically to the certain engine it will never run right, the pulses an backwave frequency in the pipe have to match the timing of the engine, when you hit "powerband" thats when the pulses an backwave are perfectly in time with the engine,
That's very true but it is only the silencer that's been changed. Not the main expansion chamber so don't think thatsctoo much of an issue........or could it be
If the silencer still has the same straight through design it will not make any difference to the jetting.
No just silencer
All back together. Float level correct. Not leaking any more and checked using tip with clear tube
Put air filter back on and went for spin 3 km or so. Still no better. Bit confused as to problems now
Won't idle. Flat at the top and sometimes runs great for a few seconds then falls off again. Keep throttle open. Runs rubbish for a bit then great for a few seconds then rubbish again
Got to be carb but what?
All back together. Float level correct. Not leaking any more and checked using tip with clear tube
Put air filter back on and went for spin 3 km or so. Still no better. Bit confused as to problems now
Won't idle. Flat at the top and sometimes runs great for a few seconds then falls off again. Keep throttle open. Runs rubbish for a bit then great for a few seconds then rubbish again
Got to be carb but what?
Is the vent tube on the tank filler cap free of obstruction, has a wasp built a nest in it?
Is the brass washer under the main jet?
Is the brass washer under the main jet?
check your electrical. could be an issue with weak spark. your ignition could be rusty from sitting. bad grounds plug boot could be corroded at the wire.
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