carb issue

dirtrider604

Member
Nov 14, 2011
79
1
34
Fredericksburg, VA
so originally the problem started when my blaster backfired and shot the reeds through the carb into the intake. I cleaned everything out and installed boyeson carbon fiber reeds. when I had finished installing everything and fired the atv up, it didn't want to stay running without the throttle. I adjusted the idle on the tors (it was all disconnected just hadn't taken it off yet) and it didn't to any good. so I figured I might as well take that ugly block off the carb. so I drilled the new idle screw and installed everything using pictured instructions I found on this site. atv fired up but if I moved the atv back and forth, the idle speed would change. I didn't think much of it. I hopped on and put it in gear and it died again before I let go of the clutch. I checked the clutch cable and its not the problem. I also noticed that I still had stock jetting which I know isn't good with my mods. would jetting make this problem? and I can still never get the idle adjusted right since I took the tors off. all of the mods are in my sig
 
A lean mixture from under jetting could have caused the backfire.

It would pay to do a leak down and compression test.

A stock #230 jet is way too lean for the Paul Turner pipe, you should be up around a #300 main.
 
You got a few issues going on there.


1, its running lean.

2, sounds like you have a air leak ! do a leak down test. do not run it !!

Sounds like your air leak is bad enough, you need to address this first. or boom she may go.


could be a air leak, in the cases, crank seals, the reed cage. the carb boots at either end, not tightened good enough.

Whens the last time the seals in the crank case have been changed ?

every 5 to 6 years, they should be replaced.

sporty
 
I had the top end professionally rebuilt and the engine has less than 20hrs of ride time so its not a compression issue. but its possible that the problem is just jetting? are there any recommended brands? and maybe you guys could recommend a couple sizes to try based on my mods? I know a plug chop needs to be done to make sure its right too
 
well they have them on e-bay for like $3.00 each and also your local dealer sells them for around $5 or 6. the main jet. you will need to change your needle settings.

some say on the 3rd or 4 the groove.

but you could start off with a 280 jet, and then go from there.

U migth need lower, with the stock silencer on it.

Stock is 230.

Seems like what I read many are running from 290 to 260. main jet.

a leak down test, does not have to do with compression, a air leak in the case or at intake boot or reed cage, causes the the air / fuel mixture to change and run lean. boom, boom.



Sporty
 
I have the needle in the 3rd (middle) groove right now. and I have a completely aftermarket exhaust system. I am also 100% sure i have the stock main in it now. so I'll get some gaskets, change the jetting, and check the reed cage. where can I pick up a leak down tester? and how is it done?
 
I had the top end professionally rebuilt and the engine has less than 20hrs of ride time so its not a compression issue. but its possible that the problem is just jetting? are there any recommended brands? and maybe you guys could recommend a couple sizes to try based on my mods? I know a plug chop needs to be done to make sure its right too

20 hours of running a Paul Turner on a a stock #230 jet is more than ample time to fry a piston.

Do a compression test and leak down test, and re jet before starting the motor again.



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The leak down tester, people are making them, there was a guy on here making them and selling them for a good price, but hes been busy with other things right now.

So you unless someone has a used one to part with, you will have to make your own. they are not hard to make.

a compressor tester, they are not as cheap, but sometimes your local autzone, orilielys, ect, has a loaner program.

Sporty
 
You can get some idea of the condition of the piston and rings, by pulling off the pipe and looking up the exhaust port.