Blaster wont start after rebuild

I will 3rd that a lot of aftermarket stators are bad and will test to be within spec. Generally, normal operation followed by no spark means that something broke, fell out of place, or vibrated loose. The keyword there is "generally."
 
I finally got to looking at the quad..The screws fell out of one of the coils, and it all fell into the flywheel. Needless to say, it scratched up the flywheel. I put it back together with a new stator and there is spark now but it doesnt seem to want to quite turn over.

Is there a spec on the clearance for the flywheel to know if thats it or if this stator is junk?

Also, if the flywheel is bad..can you get them other than from a dealer?
 
Scratched up flywheels often work.

If you need one, get your post count up to over 30 and pay the supporting member fee and post in the wanted section in Marketplace.
Someone will have a used one for you.

The reason that it won't start maybe the bottom end is flooded!
 
Scratched up flywheels often work.

If you need one, get your post count up to over 30 and pay the supporting member fee and post in the wanted section in Marketplace.
Someone will have a used one for you.

The reason that it won't start maybe the bottom end is flooded!
I let it sit and tried again today. Still won't start. How would I know if its the flywheel thats causing the issue?
 
If you have a nice bright blue spark and you have fitted a new key to a flywheel that is in good condition and tensioned to 53ft lbs,suspect a fuel problem.

Take a look at the plug to see if you have a gut full of fuel.
 
Update:

I decided to test the new stator that was put in, since it was just one off of Amazon. It tests dead in the middle of the ranges for both coils, so that shouldn't be the problem. I also decided to test the coil, which didn't test right - so I replaced it.

I wouldn't consider it an extremely bright spark, but it does have spark now...But it still won't start.

I pulled the plug out and it doesn't appear to be getting much (if any) fuel. It is barely wet to the touch, and looks completely dry. I tried pouring a little bit of fuel in the engine to see if it would turn over, sputter, something..But it didn't do a thing.

I did a compression test - it has roughly 105 lbs, which seems low. However, it really hasn't been run enough for the rings to seat completely. I'd imagine that this is normal.

I checked to make sure all of the head/base bolts are still tight...

QUICK VERSION
I'm at a loss. It ran PERFECT then randomly wouldn't start. It had no spark at all, which was obviously the stator since the coils fell off. After a new stator and coil, it has some spark, but now won't get any fuel, and won't start even with a bit of fuel poured straight in.

Hopefully somebody has some guidance. I am so irritated..This thing has given me so many problems I don't even want it anymore :/.
 
could be one of the wires all wrapped up in the factory tape has come apart or frayed,maybe try new wires,post some pics...and 105 psi on a fresh rebuild is not cool unless your gauge is off :).they say it will start with only a 100psi,but it should be at least 120psi in my opiniono_O
WHAT IS THE YEAR ? or if you cant answer that do you have a 4 wire stator or 5 wire stator?
 
It's a 2004. 5 wire IIRC.

Keep in mind, the quad ran great to get it into the bed of my truck. The same day I went to take it off the truck and had nothing.

It's not a real expensive gauge, but I'm sure it's at least close.

Post some pics of what? I'll gladly get some pictures if that would help.
 
Aftermarket stators have also been known to test good but still be junk. Electrical problems can come and go with temp and humidity changes, movement, or sometimes for no reason at all. Don't pour gas in the engine, if needed throw some mixed gas in a spray bottle and squirt it in the intake, NO starter fluid! I would get another compression tester on it just to see
 
Well I assume it is is a fuel problem but it's getting to the bowl and the internals all look clean so I'm not sure what the issue is.

To clarify, it was 2 stroke mix. I poured a bit right out of the tank (I premix)
 
Have you disabled the TORS? If not, you need to connect the yellow/black to the black wire to disable it.
 
Well I assume it is is a fuel problem but it's getting to the bowl and the internals all look clean so I'm not sure what the issue is.

To clarify, it was 2 stroke mix. I poured a bit right out of the tank (I premix)
To clarify, pre mix poured in a plug hole washes all lubrication from the cylinder walls.

Pre mix contains absolutely no lubricating properties at all unless it is atomised and the oil comes out of suspension.

Pre mix does however makes an excellent cutting fluid.

The internals may look clean but have you checked that the jets and passageways are clean.
 
yup a pic could tell us if your tors is still connected and or whats going on.look into the tors=throttle over ride system :) although it should start not matter what just wont rev :)
 
As blaaster said needs to be atomized, hence the spray bottle. I'm working on finishing my rebuild, seemed to run fine before I tore it down, but I cleaned the carb 3x in a row just because....
 
I can tell you from experience that an 03-06 Blaster will not start with the TORS unplugged and not jumpered. On my 05 Blaster, I took a bunch of stuff apart and found the cut off TORS wires from the carb top jumpered together and plugged into the harness. I figured the previous owner was an idiot, since the TORS box was already removed(So I thought). I unplugged the jumper and threw it in my scrap parts box and never gave it another thought. A few days later, I tried to start it. I kicked and kicked and kicked and kicked. It would fire twice and die each time. I was going nuts trying to figure out why it wouldn't start. Finally I looked on the internet and found somewhere that the TORS is inside the CDI box. Plugged that jumper back in and it fired right up. After that, I cut the harness and soldered and heatshrinked the TORS wires.
 
I haven't touched the TORS system recently, so I don't think that is the issue of it not starting. However, I will get rid of it just to eliminate that as a future issue. Do I splice the black wire and yellow and black wire together on the carb side or the harness side? Is that all that needs done?

I tore the carb apart again today just to double check. Everything look spotless..Including the jets, passage ways, etc. I put it back together and now the thumb throttle isn't working? It works as soon as you unscrew the top of the carb. Once you go to put it back on it doesn't work again. Obviously something stupid..What did I do wrong?

Atomized or not, it should have run on a bit of 2 stroke mix into the cylinder, even if for a second or two..Correct?
 
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It should kick over if you pour fuel into the plug hole, and there is spark to ignite it.

The problem with using the drop of fuel in the plug hole method, is that lubrication is lost which accelerates component wear!
 
I understand that aspect of it. Just clarifying that it should have still started regardless. Not something I would do repeatedly.
 
you put the slide in wrong and or your cable is crimped somewhere,there is a pin that the slide aligns with in carb throat:)