Blaster with battery to led lights no charging system

99blasterzach

Member
Sep 21, 2015
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yes I know this is under "engine" but this will
Get Seen quicker under engine then under outher things

Ok so what I want to do is get these lights http://m.ebay.com/itm/181424644162?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
And a little 12volt battery
What I was thinking would running the lights straight to the battery would work?
Like when I want to use the lights I would just connect the battery

Now there would be no charging system coming off the blaster so when the battery runs out of juice I would
Have to charge it with a battery charger
 
While it will work, you should have a switch and fuse. Type of battery will determine how long it will last. Might look into an RC battery.
 
Ok I think I know how I am going to do this.
First get this battery. It will fit in the back of the blaster and it
Is 6 amh

Then get this wiring kit

And then use these lights
Now I think that should
Work. And it being a 6 amp hour it should last a good time!
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Does it say which cree is in that? If it's not an r5, xml, or xpg, I wouldn't bother. It looks like the actual lumens listed is honest. Also, I'd recommend pulling them apart and lock tightening them together. I've had seveal things of similar quality/price.. rattle apart! These are a temping set up :)

Also, battery run times are not linear. a 6ah battery should be able to provide 6 amps over the course of an hour. In this case, your going to be pulling 36 watts. 36/12=3 amps. If your lucky, this may yield more than 2 hours! The later half of the 2 hours may have so low of a voltage, the leds won't light.

Anywho, I've gone through this situation numerous times with my rides, Typically old 3 wheelers with no regulator at all!. At least the blaster regulates to 12v AC. AC is very very very easy to convert to DC.

Unless your looking for extended run times with the battery, I'd forgo it for a different storage medium. Would something that gives you 30-60 seconds worth of juice(while the machine isn't running), never craps out when it goes to 0 volts, charges within 5 seconds, can be discharged and recharge over a million times sound good? It also weighs considerable less than the battery. non spill-able and no threat of it leaking or expanding. zero maintenance... With the exception of run time, it all sounds great. Look for ultra caps.

Ok, So the magical AC to DC component is a diode bridge. It rectifies AC to full wave DC. It's the simplest method. It does not regulate voltage. 2 AC wires connect, then a + and - exit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bridge-Rect...457431?hash=item3f57e35b17:g:cD8AAOSwBahVbRkX

Instead of a battery, I'd look into a Super capacitor bank. This one will provide probably close to 3 minutes of continus run time. http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Farad-16...458225?hash=item3d201824b1:g:y6kAAOSwmtJXZTCr. They get much cheaper, but that is one of the best bangs for the buck (i didn't know when i bought mine :(

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Now due to the voltage regulator, and the DC rectifier, you can get away from the battery all together. You won't have any lights while your not driving though. My estimates of the run times with caps I based off personal experience with a 5 F bank and a 233F bank. Capacitance does not add up in series, it actually lowers. That's why your seeing a 100F cap bank rated for 16F. A 58F bank will run a couple of HIDs for nearly 2 minutes. Super caps are similar to capacitors people put in their cars for high end audio. The difference is that these are newer technology and have about 100 times the energy in them that a car audio cap does.

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This should work as a replacement.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-3-Farad-6...218524?hash=item567cb1dc5c:g:fxMAAOSwo6lWFnGw
 
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