I had been having trouble with getting my stock bore blaster with pro carbon reeds and no lid and toomey b1 the 310 main works great but the bottom end was bad so this is what i ended up with so far and it rips runs better then any setup on any blaster iv had 35 pilot needle clip 4th from top and airscrew is about 1 and half turns out maybe a little more but on castor 927 and went to just 93 octane no ethanol so just thought if anyone was bogging to get a bigger pilot jet and lower the needle jet untill it stops mine hits as soon as you crack the throttle
blaster toomey jetting
- Thread starter Perdueracing
- Start date
What effectively you have done is richen up the AFR up to about 3/4 throttle.
Did you adjust the idle as per specs?
Was the float level between 20 and 21.5 mm?
If you pre mix at 32:1, I can see you needing to use a #320 main jet.
Was the AFR confirmed by a plug chop?
Did you adjust the idle as per specs?
Was the float level between 20 and 21.5 mm?
If you pre mix at 32:1, I can see you needing to use a #320 main jet.
Was the AFR confirmed by a plug chop?
my opinion is you are giving it to much gas.
stock pilot 32.5
and needle clip in middle 3rd slot
toomey instruction are for airscrew to be at 3/4 of a turn out
and drilled airbox or no lid..
stock pilot 32.5
and needle clip in middle 3rd slot
toomey instruction are for airscrew to be at 3/4 of a turn out
and drilled airbox or no lid..
I have the same set up except I have the stock pilot. KOR recommended I went to 35 pilot. I also have no Airbox lid with K&N filter and air screw 3/4 turns out.
Have you set the idle speed correctly?
Idle speed adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Idle speed adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Yes i the floats are set and iv plug choped and set the idle the 4th clip is a little rich but on the 3rd clip if i rolled into it ran great but coming out of a corner and if i just punched it it would bog so if i run the 3rd clip i have to run a little fat on the pilot jet and airscrew if im going to stay wide open i run the the 4th clip postion so its just preference but with that 927 oil you have to stay in it to keep it cleared and also iv tried the lid with the holes and jetted for it but theres no where near the power but the response it a little better so its a trade off and with a 300 main its alittle more crisp but id rather run a tad rich has anyone tried the oconner head mod or the porting ? Im looking for more power as always and has anyone tried a 28 pwk carb thats what im looking at getting i just think theres only so much you can get from the stock carb unless you can find a better needle jet mine is a 2001 and for stock its fine but the needle is giving me fits and i cant get that response like a kx or rm so if anyone has a idea of a better needle jet let me know but thanks for the info
Boy all that typing with one breath, very hard to understand what you are talking about!
Do you understand how a carby works, the pilot and air screw combination works up to 1/4 throttle with AC little help from the needle circuit.
From 1/4 throttle the needle takes over and the idle circuit has very little if any part in the mix.
After 3/4 throttle the main jet does the rest up to full throttle.
There is no reason to stay on it as you say , with 927, to keep it cleared, if there is a problem the oil has nothing at all to do with it, it is all in the jetting!
I have not heard of any other needle than the stock one in the stock carb giving any problems, it is the aftermarket needles that cause the problems.
What were the results of the plug chops and did you chop the needle circuit at 1/2 and3/4 throttle where you are having the problem?
Running a stock 26mm carb with a mid/high pipe like the Toomey is going to give some jetting headaches as the Toomey performs so much better with a larger carb.
Do you understand how a carby works, the pilot and air screw combination works up to 1/4 throttle with AC little help from the needle circuit.
From 1/4 throttle the needle takes over and the idle circuit has very little if any part in the mix.
After 3/4 throttle the main jet does the rest up to full throttle.
There is no reason to stay on it as you say , with 927, to keep it cleared, if there is a problem the oil has nothing at all to do with it, it is all in the jetting!
I have not heard of any other needle than the stock one in the stock carb giving any problems, it is the aftermarket needles that cause the problems.
What were the results of the plug chops and did you chop the needle circuit at 1/2 and3/4 throttle where you are having the problem?
Running a stock 26mm carb with a mid/high pipe like the Toomey is going to give some jetting headaches as the Toomey performs so much better with a larger carb.
