I have a 2000 blaster I just put a vito's 240 kit in it after market parts I have installed are Toomey b1 full exhaust vitos 2 stage reeds and a 34mm keihn carb off a cr250 bike the blaster doesn't seem to have any bottom end power if I hit the gas to roost or just play around it falls on its face and bogs down but if I ease into the power band its fine I was hoping for input on possible fixes for the problem im hoping for a low budget fix but any input is appreciated
blaster 240 kit no bottom end power
- Thread starter randysblaster00
- Start date
what jetting did you come up with for that 34mm ?
the stock 250r jetting is way too rich, including the slide cutaway, pilot, needle and main jet.
most of us running that carb are in the....
48-52 pilot
dgh or cel needle < a must
150-162 mains
#6 slide < another must
have you leak down tested it ?
compression test ?
plug chops ?
the stock 250r jetting is way too rich, including the slide cutaway, pilot, needle and main jet.
most of us running that carb are in the....
48-52 pilot
dgh or cel needle < a must
150-162 mains
#6 slide < another must
have you leak down tested it ?
compression test ?
plug chops ?
doesn't leak has good compression not sure exact psi going to check jets now but I have a 52 pilot
its a round slide carb I looked up pj34mm and it was a flat slide my carb is the pe34mm round slide
Get rid of that carb. It's outdated and a pita to tune. Get a 35mm pwk airstriker carb. If you can't afford that get a 34mm pj. Pj's are good carbs too.
Unfortunately I don't use those carbs so I can't recommend jetting. If it requires the same jetting as the pj your 52 pilot should work.
Let's start here. You say it is leak free. How do you know that? Have you tested it. You can not assume it is leak free because you just rebuilt it. The reason i say that is because a bog is a lean condition and could be an air leak.
Have you set your air screw yet? There will be a small flathead screw on the side of the carb (Not the idle screw). Start the bike and let it get up to Operating temperature. Start with the air screw at a half a turn out from a lighlt seated position. Turn the air screw out a half a turn at a time. You have to wait around ten seconds between adjustments. This should change your idle speed. You want to keep turning out until you reach you highest idle. That will set the air screw.
Onto the needle. What slot is the clip on?
Let's start here. You say it is leak free. How do you know that? Have you tested it. You can not assume it is leak free because you just rebuilt it. The reason i say that is because a bog is a lean condition and could be an air leak.
Have you set your air screw yet? There will be a small flathead screw on the side of the carb (Not the idle screw). Start the bike and let it get up to Operating temperature. Start with the air screw at a half a turn out from a lighlt seated position. Turn the air screw out a half a turn at a time. You have to wait around ten seconds between adjustments. This should change your idle speed. You want to keep turning out until you reach you highest idle. That will set the air screw.
Onto the needle. What slot is the clip on?
any carb can be jetted to some degree. if the slide cutaway and/or needle are wrong, you'll be chasing your tail
here's how i do it, in this order...
passed leakdown test.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
clean it properly !
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/
check/set float height.
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/float-heights-how-adjust-them-50565/
adjust airscrew/pilot jet.
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet-51060/
adjust your needle up (clip down) until it rich bogs/stumbles, then back down one clip position.
if the mids never clear up and pull hard, you'll need a different needle, usually leaner for these blasters when using bigger carbs off other bikes.
plug chop for main jetting.
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-plug-chop-53237/
If the pipe is designed for the displacement of the motor it will have the correct kinetics.
The problem may be in the idle/needle setting.
What were the results of the leak test you performed?
Have you adjusted the float level correctly?
Is the Toomey fitting leak free to the jug?
Do you pre-mix, if so what ratio?
What air filter and is the lid on the airbox?
Not that it matters but I've got a 240 with the same pipe but stock carb and it has a ton of bottom end.
the Toomey was designed for the original cc size that is why I said I thought it could be that the needle is on the second highest setting and I do not believe it is leaking because I only touched the top end and the bottom was not leaking before if it is leaking it will be leaking in the intake boot and I premix castor 927 36 to 1
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