2003 Blaster Idles no rev, lots of smoke

[ItsTheBurns]

Hey fellow blaster owners. A few weeks ago a buddy of mine dropped off this blaster someone gave to him with this issue. It starts on first kick, kinda idles but wont rev. It doesn't sound like its firing every time it should. I've replaced just about everything on it. As far as I know, the top end was rebuilt and bored .20 over, no big deal. Piston is brand new and is a Weisco .20 over PN:573M06650 (pic uploaded). There is no airbox cover on this quad, not yet at least.

What I DID do:
Clean and rebuild carb to stock
Installed Boyesen 2 Stage power reeds since that usually causes 2 strokes to act up.
New intake gaskets
Installed 3 different plugs
Tried 3 coils and CDIs
Tried 2 wire harnesses
I did TORS and Parking brake delete (using tutorials from this site) and the oil injector delete was already done when I got it. I cleaned up the wiring.
Replaced both crank seals (flywheel side was leaking but I always change both seals when I do engine work).
Pulled head and checked gasket, piston and cylinder. All good and seem to be brand new (no carbon)
Removed and inspected expansion chamber and muffler (FMF fatboy or something like that)
Adjusted timing to the best of what I could. The stator is not stock and probably some junk one.
Disconnected 2 of the 5 wires coming from the stator, White/Red and Black. The engine stays running since these are CHARGE and I think GROUND? I have disconnected the remaining 3 one at a time and the engine dies out.

What I have to do:
Leak down test (waiting for kit)
Check base gasket
Continuity test each coil in the stator (waiting on new meter)
Refill clutch case with fluid
Compression test (waiting on new tester)

Piston:

Stator:

Not sure what this was, it was there when I got it.

So having said all that, I have run it very briefly (2-3 seconds) without the exhaust connected thinking the expansion chamber and/or muffler were blocked my something. 2 cycle EZGO golf cart mufflers were notorious for clogging and causing the cart to run like crap. I have shorted out the parking brake wire to ground and the engine dies. At this point there are only a few more tests to complete. So far I have not found any answers or made any improvement to the idle. I am uploading a video right now and should be live within a few mins of this post so you can see and hear what its doing. The link is:

I will post more information as I continue to test. Remember, I got this quad this way, I've only tried to replace things I know wear out or could cause problems. I want to get this running the way its supposed to then I will deal with placement or components.

I work on golf carts for a living and have fixed similar problems but this one has me stumped. I would appreciate any help you guys/gals can provide.

 

[speedyslyder]

you connected something wrong electrically.
timing is off/or the notorious stator problem.
they need oem stator/or rebuilt.
it sounds exactly like a tors problem though.
tell us every step you took to eliminate the tors?

 

[dirtysquared]

Not having an oem stator can be a problem. Alot of aftermarket are known to be bad out of the box.

Does that smoke stink like tranny fluid? I know you changed the crank seal, but it could be a case leak allowing gear oil to be combustied. A leak down test will tell you if thats the culprit or not.

 

[ItsTheBurns]

This problem was here before I had my hand at it. The TORS was already disconnected when I got it, I just cleaned up the wiring using the sticky on THIS site. It hasn't run any different.

 

[speedyslyder]

close up pics of things would help.
what is that blue tube for?
what plug type?

 

[ItsTheBurns]

Not having an oem stator can be a problem. Alot of aftermarket are known to be bad out of the box.

Does that smoke stink like tranny fluid? I know you changed the crank seal, but it could be a case leak allowing gear oil to be combustied. A leak down test will tell you if thats the culprit or not.

No, it doesn't smell like tranny fluid tho I do suspect that being an issue. I haven't been able to perform the leak down test just yet. I do suspect the stator as well since it looks like a "high output" POS knockoff. I'm watching an OEM stator on ebay but I figured I would get some forum input while I wait to perform further testing.

 

[ItsTheBurns]

close up pics of things would help.
what is that blue tube for?

Its coming out of the top of the crankcase, must be a vent. It was there when I got it. I'll upload some closeups of that and the stator.

 

[speedyslyder]

lol
it goes under the gas tank then point down toward the exhaust not were you have it.
im going to act like i did not read the novel you posted
how much oil in tranny? should be 650ml
?airscrew setting
what are you mixing at?
plug type?
the condition of your flywheel magnets?
fresh gas/mixed at 32:1
it starts soo it sounds like tors/stator/flywheel/timing/crazy insane mixture.
i think its a number of things not just 1

does it change if you turn the airscrew??
what size pilot and main jet needle clip position?
carb slide is in correct and opening fully?

 

[ItsTheBurns]

lol
it goes under the gas tank not were you have it.
im going to act like i did not read the novel you posted

?airscrew setting
what are you mixing at?
plug type?
the condition of your flywheel magnets?
fresh gas/mixed at 32:1
it starts soo it sounds like tors/stator/flywheel/timing/crazy insane mixture.
i think its a number of things not just 1

does it change if you turn the airscrew??
what size pilot and main jet needle clip position?
carb slide is in correct and opening fully?

No carb adjustments change no matter how far out or in the air screw settings are. I had it all the way in and all the way out. Plug is an NGK, Flywheel magnets look good and clean, not rusty and crusty or cracked, fresh gas mixed at 32ish:1, cant be wiring since i used a stock harness and followed exactly how to do it on this site, carb is stock as I said earlier and is opening and closing properly. I rebuilt it. its not exactly rocket science so I have to suspect the stator this guy has on here. Its a 200cc 2 stroke engine, theres not a whole lot to it, ya know. I just want to get it running before I drive over it with the d8

 

[speedyslyder]

holy stator ..........
i dont know about the timing adjusted stators?
but please someone on here tell us if this thing is set at plus 10 degrees???
plus 4 is as far as people go.But to be safer in your case it should be at 0
what were the instructions that came with it??? or link site

 

[ItsTheBurns]

holy stator ..........
i dont know about the timing adjusted stators?
but please someone on here tell us if this thing is set at plus 10 degrees???
plus 4 is as far as people go.But to be safer in your case it should be at 0
what were the instructions that came with it??? or link site

I've adjusted it in both directions tick to tick to the point of no start with no change. I'm a casual rider, not lookin to race or performance tune.

 

[speedyslyder]

from what you have checked and wrote.
you have covered everything lol.
leak test compression test.
but it does start.If it was mine i would say it is electrical.
get a known working oem stator/coil and find out.or do the prope tests with multimeter,even though the stators can test fine and still be junk under a load..
you can always resell it if you need cash.
others will post but from what you are (saying)
this is a real troubled blaster
you have read all the electrical threads/switched out parts.
i would do electrical test with multimeter/check the compression/leak test.
just wait a few hours or days and the other experts on here will gets you up and running for sure
but if that crankcase breather tube is going back to the filter i dont know if i 100% believe you in all that you have checked and wrote...

 

[ItsTheBurns]

from what you have checked and wrote.
you have covered everything lol.
leak test compression test.
but it does start.If it was mine i would say it is electrical.
get a oem stator/coil and find out.
you can always reseal it if you need cash.
others will post but from what you are (saying)
this is a real troubled blaster
you have read all the electrical threads/switched out parts.
i would do electrical test with multimeter/check the compression/leak test.
just wait a few hours or days and the other experts on here will gets you up and running for sure

I know theres no doubt the solution will be found. Its the waiting part thats killing me. I want to ride it so bad lol. My last quad was a Honda 300EX. I miss it but I wasn't riding it so I sold it and now I have this one. So I had to turn here and from what I have read on this forum, its a great bunch of people with a wealth of knowledge.

I was leaning toward the stator being the culprit, but being who I am, I have to check and recheck everything and replace what I can with oem quality parts (or better). The stator was on the list of parts to replace anyway but I had to change the other stuff out (for piece of mind) since I don't know what the other guy did to this. I have seen the recommended stator parts to use so once I get an OEM stator that works I'll be able to know I changed it all. Leak down test and compression test are going to happen next week if my kit comes in. Thanks again!

 

[speedyslyder]

my only other question is this.
when you got it what happened to other person?
and what did they do?
ngk b8es is correct plug.
120psi is normal compression.
but that sounds like a electrical problem allllll day.
03 blaster tors delete is...
unplug parking break switch from both connector ends.
unplug wires on carb/and splice on end ,that leads to harness near headlight.
unplug connector on thumb throttle and splice those.
do you know what brand stator that is?
you have a ELECTRICAL PROBLEM/or you are burning tranny fluid/or you floats are stuck in carb flooding it to death.
32:1 is 4oz of oil per gallon.
03 plus should be 5 wire stator unless person made it look like a 03 plus blaster,headlight brakes .cdi ,ect.
without the compression test/mixed at 32:1/oil injection nipple plugged off/check that.
piston arrow facing towards exhaust port.

the stator is to blame/or electrical issue. cdi/ignition coil/stator/flywheel/timing.
take what you want and leave the rest.
or have a shop find the problem and bite the bullet.
if i did all the work you have and still wanted the blaster i would have a shop fix it for real,and stop guessing and spending loot

i have seen people have aftermarket parts/wrong plugs/bad grounds/connected wrong.ect

 

[ItsTheBurns]

my only other question is this.
when you got it what happened to other person?
and what did they do?
ngk b8es is correct plug.
120psi is normal compression.
but that sounds like a electrical problem allllll day.
03 blaster tors delete is...
unplug parking break switch from both connector ends.
unplug wires on carb/and splice on end ,that leads to harness near headlight.
unplug connector on thumb throttle and splice those.
do you know what brand stator that is?
you have a ELECTRICAL PROBLEM/or you are burning tranny fluid/or you floats are stuck in carb flooding it to death.
32:1 is 4oz of oil per gallon.
03 plus should be 5 wire stator unless person made it look like a 03 plus blaster,headlight brakes .cdi ,ect.
without the compression test/mixed at 32:1/oil injection nipple plugged off/check that.
piston arrow facing towards exhaust port.

the stator is to blame/or electrical issue. cdi/ignition coil/stator/flywheel/timing.
take what you want and leave the rest.
or have a shop find the problem and bite the bullet.
if i did all the work you have and still wanted the blaster i would have a shop fix it for real,and stop guessing and spending loot

i have seen people have aftermarket parts/wrong plugs/bad grounds/connected wrong.ect

Vague information what was done. I don't know the original owner. As I said, this was brought to me to get running.
NGK B8ES is in it
122PSI Compression
I agree electrical, not my wiring, i suspect stator.
I followed the TORS delete exactly as the sticky on this site, as i have said many times. After following it and stripping the harness back completely, its a much simpler process than its made out to be, the wiring schematic helps with this as well.
No clue on the stator brand but it looks like an ebay special "high output".
Its probably burning trans oil but that issue will be sorted when it runs. Carb is working perfectly as i have said many times, its rebuilt. I've had it apart several times to check it against spec and its fine.
I'm running 32:1,
Its an 03, 32:1, comp 122psi, injection nipple plugged off, arrow facing exhaust.

I've spent a lot of time researching blasters before i started pulling wires and throwing parts at it. Being a mechanic, i know what problems any 2 stroke engine will have. I've been all over the bike with parts i know work from other peoples bikes, short of disabling theirs, which i wont do. I've turned here as looking for not-so obvious issues or if someone has had this exact issue and found a solution that did not be TORS which i know its not. all the typical things that should be checked that a shop would gladly take my money to check i have done.

I feel that I need to note that I am not a novice when it comes to the mechanics and electrical systems in these things, which is why my OP was as detailed as I could get at the moment. Some have more wires and switches that do more things than others but overall, this is a basic 3/4 wire AC CDI system, ground being the entire bike, aside from the "charging" circuit for the lighting. All grounds are grounded good, clean and tight.

 

[Awk08]

so you have the yellow/black wire and solid black connected coming right out of the stator/cdi combo on the 03+ models ?

btw...once thats done, none of the other tors wiring matters at all, wether it's connected, hooked up, connected together or what not, it all leads back to the tors brain (inside the CDI on 03+) on those 2 wires, once cut and connected the brain is fooled into thinking it is fully operating correctly and will not alter the igntion as in a fault case.

 

[ItsTheBurns]

so you have the yellow/black wire and solid black connected coming right out of the stator/cdi combo on the 03+ models ?

btw...once thats done, none of the other tors wiring matters at all, wether it's connected, hooked up, connected together or what not, it all leads back to the tors brain (inside the CDI on 03+) on those 2 wires, once cut and connected the brain is fooled into thinking it is fully operating correctly and will not alter the igntion as in a fault case.

Correct. I have those spliced right at the CDI plug and the rest of that system gone. The TORS is looking for a closed circuit to ground, open circuit indicates fault and retards timing.

 

[speedyslyder]

well at least it is set a zero in picmaybe half a degree off but you know lol
but you already knew that buddy lol.
i saw some oem ones on ebay for like 60 bucks/i know you are watching 1

click for full size

 

[Larry's Shee]

How is flywheel key? When you ohm ignition coil ohm plug boot seperate. Trim 1/4" from wire, install with dab of di-electric grease. Make sure coil mount is clean, bare metal, Add di-grease. Check that ALL grounds are clean/bare. Check all connections are clean/tight. Bypass all switches (even if only temporarily) to eliminate fault.
If during leak test, if air is coming from trans vent, suspect the crankshaft collar that goes into seal. I use 3Bond on collar and keyway.

+ 4* is max you should go on ignition.

 

[YoungGunsRacing]

For the sake of helping out others and blaster forum members - I have a working oem ignition wind and trigger module. I will be willing to send them to you as long as you cover shipping. If they help. We can come to a price perhaps. If not, we can work out sending them back as well. PM me if I can help you out.