1st Blaster, full rebuild

Thanks guys! I am really excited about how it is comming along, myself! appreciate all the kind words!
I got a Tusk aluminum front bumper(the one with the removable center insert) and I actually took the insert out and painted it when I painted the frame. I got that put on the other night and got the front shock rezzies were I wanted them. I will grab a few pics tonight...looks KILLER!

I had fun with the tie-rod threads spinning. I used an old trick figured I'd share. I am sure there are tons of ways to keep the threads from spinning, but heres the simple thing I did and worked like a charm. I put the tie rod through the tapered seat hole and started the 17mm castle nut till the threads spun. then I grabbed a 17mm socket and a large C-clamp. I put the socket on the nut and used the clamp to tighten up the joing with the lower jaw of the clamp on the bottom of the ball joint and the threaded end of the clamp on the end of the socket. I was going to grab another socket for the bottom lower jaw, so I didn't mess up the ball joint, but the threads of my studs & nuts were clean enough I didn't need a lot of clamping force to "lock" the stud in its tapered seat so I could get the nut tight. Hope I am clear...let me know if not I can take a pic to show.

I'd like to get my motor painted. Still haven't decided wether to go with black or silver...OPINIONS???

Heres a few pics of the footpegs I made at work...

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Anyone who has done this mod had interance problems with the gear shift lever?
I didn't really think about it till I got home and was thinkin how good they looked... I wear size 11 boots, just hoping this doesn't screw things up w/my shifter...Could always weld an extension on if it does, I suppose...
Heres the pics. More comming later.
 
Camber is not specified in the manual but it is 90 deg to the ground.

Caster is 9 deg.

Toe in is 0 - 10 deg, depending on if you flip your wheels, run stud spacers, or use a widening kit.
 
OOh, I just remembered another Q' I wanted to ask. I was curious about camber and toe adjustment. Any suggestions on a good starting point of what degrees camber and toe in or out would be very helpfull. Lemme know what you guys are running. Thanks again.

lookin good !
you'll find some good front suspension set-up info here..
http://www.lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf

i have the similar yfz pegs welded over top of blaster pegs on my black blaster.
with a size 10 alpinestar riding boot i don't have a problem with the shifter,
i think you'll be fine
 
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I picked up a 12-pack of 'liquid ambition' last night, and enjoyed a few while I was buttoning up a few odds & ends on the blaster.
Heres a few pics of the project so far.
These 2 were taken the other day, when I got the Tusk bumper on. The bumper has a removable plate/insert, which I painted when I did the frame...
What do you guys think?
I am not sure I want to keep it on or remove it & go without-it hasn't really 'grown' on me yet...

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I wasn't real happy with the polish job on the wheels. They had dried mud on them and when I scrubbed them off there was corrosion spots left behind. I did get them bolted up, after I got the front brake cables routed...I guess I will need to get some cable holders that mount to the upper a-arms so they don't flop around...

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Here are the front wheels mounted. I have decided to get the engine in mounted and most of the other stuff before I attempt to make any adjustments on the camber & toe.

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And a few of the quad fanally on the groud...
I had good luck polishing the AC wide rear grab bar, which came with the blasty, as well as the wheels & tires.

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Its turning into a pretty nice machine, I think...
I have decided to go with black as the engine color. That way colors don't clash(RIGHT!!!);)
 
Small problem. I put the bars on and tried to route the throttle cable and think I may need a longer cable...:mad:

guess I shuda thaught of that before I added 3 inches to the steering stem. I will find out for sure when I get the engine mounted up later in the week I suppose...

The alignment was bugging me so I did half-a$$ set the toe & camber quick. Will tighten the adjustments up when I get it buttoned up, as it should be one of the last things I do, andam sure it will need a few tweeks by then, anyway.
 
Looking really good. I like the color choices and the orange painted bumper insert. I do however suspect you will be buying an extended swingarm soon to compliment the ride and stability of the bike. :)
 
The weather broke out of freezing yesterday, and was able to get into the garage and get a few things done. Got the engine mounted and tightened up, put the handlebars on and checked the cable length and it seams like it will be long enough. Wont know for sure till I get it ready to put the pipe on. I am going to get the wiring and cables routed before I do that, though. Then I guess it'll be time to get the tank & plastic ready. I have some work to do on the plastic, so that'll take some time. I can't seem to track down a set of decent black rear fenders... ooh well, I will wait patiently and pick up a pair this spring. That or buy new ones, but they seem a bit expensive.
I have a question in regards to the chain. I pickd up this cool orange chain and it is o-ring style and came with a rivet-style master link. Never used this style master link before. Whats a good way to 'peen' the rivet around the outer link? Do I need to buy a special tool? I used a chisel and a hammer, but I didn't want to get too crazy and bend the rear sprocket or anything...Not real comfortable with it as it still appears loose and may come of un-expectedly(which I am never a fan of...). I may order a regular(clip-style) link and replace it.
I had enough time before the evening plans to throw on the pegs and my new nerfs. I picked the nerfs up on ebay for $65, shipped. They are simplistic in design, but well constructed. I couldn't beat the price.
Another dum Q'. Does the chain have to go over the top of the lower chain roller, as I have it in the last pic?
Enjoy the pics, more next time...
 

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Chain goes under the top, over the bottom roller, you have it correct.

A word on the chain, the cool coloured chains have a reputation of not being the strongest.

I trust that you used new sprockets with the new chain.
 
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Spindles pinch verse tapered.
I too ran into this issue when converting my 02 to front disc. My 02 stock was taper pressed, my 03 a arms and spindles were pinch my aftermarket american stars were pinch also so it worked out but my 04 stock spindles and arms were press and i couldnt. So i had an 02 pinch(i prefer, easier disconect, thicker support) an 03 pinch and an 04 tapered press. And when i searched and searched all i could find were the tapered press styles. Thank god i am done with all that mess
 
Yes, the sprockets are new. I went with 13T front and 40T rear. I ended up ordering a clip style orange master link earlier today to ease my mind about things. I haven't heard any bad things about colored chain, so I will keep that in mind and an eye on it. Thanks. Its comming along nicely, I think.
 
garbuttjrchainpost: 722987 said:
Yes, the sprockets are new. I went with 13T front and 40T rear. I ended up ordering a clip style orange master link earlier today to ease my mind about things. I haven't heard any bad things about colored chain, so I will keep that in mind and an e
Yes, the sprockets are new. I went with 13T front and 40T rear. I ended up ordering a clip style orange master link earlier today to ease my mind about things. I haven't heard any bad things about colored chain, so I will keep that in mind and an eye on it. Thanks. Its comming along nicely, I think.
Orange chain does look good but like blaaster said those ebay colored chain tend to break.. should be ok but that is one of the parts on the bike you dont wanna save bunch of money.. some chains cost a lot for a reason... btw your bike is looking good.. I love orange..what color plastics you doing?
 
I have black plastic for it. The front are Maier race-style. I really need to dig around and find a different set of rears. They were the YZ/YZF blue, and were all scratched and creased up so someone painted them flat black. I may buy a new set, just kinda money I'd rather spend elsewhere. I really like the look of the new design rear fenders that lok kinda like raptor rears that Maier makes. Wish someone made a set that were formed evenly on both sides in the heel guard area.