03 blaster won't start???

Well, then unless you have no compression, you should be pulling fuel out of that freshly cleaned carb.

Did you do the compression test yet? (this is page 5 and this question was first asked on page 1) What are the numbers?
 
ok another update..... after pushing it while in gear for awhile it started giving a pressurized pop every so often. i went to kik it and every 5-10 kicks it would do a pressurized pop
 
Listen, Go buy some vforce 3's or Boyesen Pro Series reeds, spray carb cleaner through the main jet and pilot jet just to get any gunk out. then check your compression. Its well worth the $20 for a compression gauge. screw the tester in finger tight and hold throttle wide open and kick until compression gauge needle stops. If around 125 psi, your top end is in good shape. if less than that, rebuild it. If the cylinder is scarred up and needs a bore, go the next size up piston. after that, hone the cylinder and put it together with brand new gaskets. if this doesnt solve the problem check your timing again.
 
ok its confirmed the engine has 60 PSI of compression.haha that'd do it. putting in a brand new stock top end next week. ill keep you all posted. in the meantime how many of you recommend blocking off oil injection and premixing?
 
invisible4good said:
ok its confirmed the engine has 60 PSI of compression.haha that'd do it. putting in a brand new stock top end next week. ill keep you all posted. in the meantime how many of you recommend blocking off oil injection and premixing?
Click to expand...

Everyone here is definitely gonna tell you to premix, the best thing to do is to buy a block off kit. mix at 32:1 using a good quality PREMIXING OIL. You cant use the same oil that you ran with injection unless bottle says its fine. You wont know what to get for it unless you open the top end up. dont be afraid to open it up. Remove the spark plug and undo the bottom 4 nuts on the bottom part of the cylinder. If the cylinder has been scarred, you need new piston and rings along with a new bore and hone. Do not think that boring it to the farthest bore will gain you power. Save your cylinder for future engine failure. so if your have a stock bore, and your cylinder is in rough shape and you need a bore, buy the 66.25mm piston. If you think the scars are deeper than that, go with a 66.50 piston.

Remember to get it honed as well. Im sorry if you already knew all this stuff, just looking out to all the people apart of this forum and people that own blasters. Good Luck!
 
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yeah i did know but its alright. i figured out all the bore sizes last year when we had a different blaster. brought my jug to Maine and the guy put a huge indent in my cylinder when trying to bore it. made me pay $150 for the rebuild that didnt work. so what 2 stroke oil do you recommend?
 
invisible4good said:
yeah i did know but its alright. i figured out all the bore sizes last year when we had a different blaster. brought my jug to Maine and the guy put a huge indent in my cylinder when trying to bore it. made me pay $150 for the rebuild that didnt work. so what 2 stroke oil do you recommend?
Click to expand...

I liked Bel Ray MC1, but it was $9 a pint. Maxima Castor 927 is good, but will gunk up a non powervalve motor. Maxima makes a 2 stroke oil for non powerlvalved motors . Klotz super techniplate is a good oil too. Pick one and never go back and forth.
 
He has 60psi, 2_Smoked.........But yeah I thought so too. It would be damn good insurance to make that check, buy a flywheel puller.

When you checked the compression, did you hold open the throttle and kick it till the needle stopped?
 
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I cant believe this went on for 5 pages without proper steps buy the OP to find the problem. Jebus dude. People where telling you since post two to take steps to check the simple things.
All over the map with diffrent issues shop says its dead then clutch then you say its 60 psi.

In the Future, help your self follow instructions to get a good logical Hypothesis to the issue at hand.

I digress.
 
yes i kicked with the throttle wide open over and over again. and i think the top end wore down cause the crank seals are no good. thankfully he gave me a brand new pair :) so i have to take the flywheel off anyway. its all good. will keep you all posted bout the flywheel key
 
Seals might have been part of it (and they are certainly worth doing), but you won't really know until you get it apart and inspect that top end. Dirt, seized, whatever.

Dude^^^^is right though, and personally I've been pretty patient, I think. The thing to learn here is that you can't go assuming something is good until you check it properly, step-by-step. It usually comes down to checking the basics.
 
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