What size jet should I start with? I have a fresh rebuild on the top end oil pump blocked of 50:1 mix . I have the stock pipe on it with the air lid on. I have a pro circuit pipe that I want to put on . Looking for a starting point .I have a 260# main in it .I have pressure test the motor all good there.also what is the easiest way to get rid of the TORS .Long time reader first time poster . Thanks for the help..... Don
what jet to start with
- Thread starter donald brooks
- Start date
first off, mix your gas 32:1
pro circuit is 270 i think?
i would buy 280-300 and plug chop them
but wait for a second opinion as im not sure about pro circuit pipes
pro circuit is 270 i think?
i would buy 280-300 and plug chop them
but wait for a second opinion as im not sure about pro circuit pipes
Your first starting point is to change to 32:1 ratio or greater, as 50:1 is not sufficient oil for an engine under 200cc's.
Use the search forum option for TORS removal.
Take note there are differences between pre/post 03.
Use the search forum option for TORS removal.
Take note there are differences between pre/post 03.
Welcome Mr. Brooks 
Where in Michigan are you, most of my family comes from there. I'm not sure on jetting for that pipe either, but you can prob fin recommendations on their website. May as well shell out a few dollars and get a uni filter and outerwears cover and ditch the air box lid, that will add 3 more jet sizes. Always plug chop to confirm. Most people here mix 32:1, it helps your engine and gives common ground for making recommendations
Where in Michigan are you, most of my family comes from there. I'm not sure on jetting for that pipe either, but you can prob fin recommendations on their website. May as well shell out a few dollars and get a uni filter and outerwears cover and ditch the air box lid, that will add 3 more jet sizes. Always plug chop to confirm. Most people here mix 32:1, it helps your engine and gives common ground for making recommendations
Thanks for all the help! I'm going to put the pipe on tomorrow and try the 280# jet that I have and drain the fuel and go with 32:1 mix . I have a foam air filter on it that came with the quad I will leave the air lid on for now . I'm trying to get the jetting rite so I can go riding with my son . Took it out last week and went down the trail about a mile and I am glade I stopped to check on him and noticed the motor was running hot so we pulled it back to the truck with my raptor.
After the rebuild I thought I was safe putting it back to stock by putting the stock pipe and air lid back on. I was wrong .left the stock 230# main in and used 50:1 ames oil . Reading up on this forum I see that you have to jet up after removing the oil injector .Basically when I bought the quad the guy had the pro circuit pipe on no air lid oil injector removed and running the stock main jet. It had major piston slap going on that's why I rebuilt it. It looked like someone board it way to big for the piston . After removing the jug I noticed it had a hot rod crank set up in it . TBrooks I live in Fraser MI. North of Detroit . Thanks again for all the help... Let ya know how it goes .....
After the rebuild I thought I was safe putting it back to stock by putting the stock pipe and air lid back on. I was wrong .left the stock 230# main in and used 50:1 ames oil . Reading up on this forum I see that you have to jet up after removing the oil injector .Basically when I bought the quad the guy had the pro circuit pipe on no air lid oil injector removed and running the stock main jet. It had major piston slap going on that's why I rebuilt it. It looked like someone board it way to big for the piston . After removing the jug I noticed it had a hot rod crank set up in it . TBrooks I live in Fraser MI. North of Detroit . Thanks again for all the help... Let ya know how it goes .....
My dads family is north of grand rapids, White Cloud/Newaygo area, been there forever. I looked on the pro circuit website and they recommended 240?? Thought that was low, with that foam filter I'd start with 280 and plug chop. If its too rich try a 290 and pull the lid, you'll be ok without a filter cover as long as your not in wet conditions. How was the injection removed? Did they cap the carb?
Welcome to the forum. I run Pro Circuit on two of my Blasters. I am running them with 280 in them. Both are running foam filters, no lid and premix at 32:1 . Be sure the nipple is blocked off on the carb opposite of the choke. Did you do heat cycles and retorque all of the head bolts?
Thanks for all the help ! I installed a 280 main jet got rid of the lid and went with a 32:1 mix It woke that motor up.......I haven't done a plug chop yet but the plug had better color .I'm trying to get the idle rite when I snap the throttle sometimes the motor will hang for a few and then come down and idle fine . I tried to adjust it with a fast idle and turn the air mixture screw out a little at a time but the motor would not change RPM's. The only time the RPM's would change is if I turned the screw in then it would drop. also I checked the float level when I put the bigger jet it and it was fine . if I can get the idle to be more consistent I will be good ................ Also got rid of the TORS
It sounds like you may have a small air leak causing the hanging idle.
Is the nipple on the carb still capped?
Have you leak tested the engine?
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Is the nipple on the carb still capped?
Have you leak tested the engine?
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
carb is capped off.
motor was pressure tested at 7 pounds no leaks .
float level set.
new needle and seat replaced .
I will try to set it again tomorrow.
motor was pressure tested at 7 pounds no leaks .
float level set.
new needle and seat replaced .
I will try to set it again tomorrow.
