The Toomey B1, As a replacement for a DG National pipe

deeeebeeeeee

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Aug 20, 2015
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Rossville, Ga
I Bought a used Toomey for my blaster got it for $100, with the header flange, no springs, no silencer.

I must start by saying wow!!
When I first opened the box, I thought that doesn't look any different, don't see how it could do much.

First I pulled of the DG pipe and layed it beside the Toomey the differences were quite noticable the Toomey was more open in many places, it had a look of purpose. Next to the Toomey the DG looked a little wimpy, kinda like it was thrown together.

The toomey head flange was a much better piece. The flange I removed was flat on the motor side relying solely on the pressure of the bolts and slight compression of the exhaust gasket to seal in the exhaust gases. On the pipe side it relies on one spring and a 1.5 inch long piece of pipe that fits loosely between two layers of pipe on the expansion chamber
The toomey flange has a lip that fit's tightly inside of the exhaust gasket, and relies primarily on this to create a good seal, the bolts mostly hold the flange In place, as well as compressing the exhaust gasket which furthers tightens the exhaust gas seal. Once I cleaned the carbon off the isnide of the exhaust gasket, I was able to snugly fit it over the lip on the flange, it lined up nicely with the outside of the exhaust port and sealed no problem. The only adjustment I had to make, involved slightly widening spacing of the holes on the flange to allow it to fit over the studs on my engine.
On the pipe side it has a similar fit to other pipes the extension out for the flange is shorter and it uses two springs as most quality systems do.

The pipe itself was nicely welded and chromed the mountING and spring tabs were good and solid, the fit was a little tight, and the rubber mount on the frame had to be adjusted, it is quite obvious that they used every mm possible when designing this pipe. Since i got this piece used and it didn't include the silencer ,I repacked the DG silencer and surprisingly they fit together well, I won't even need the rubber exhaust clamp I ordered.

First ride.
Since both pipes call for similar jetting and I knew I was safely on the rich side, I went for a little test ride, and wow it feels like it might be a little falter below 3k rpm, but from there up its got more across the board, out pulls the dg through the mid and has a noticable hit when it "comes on the pipe". From there on out to well past were the dg fell off the Toomey goes balistic.
The only complaint I have is that now my little uphill trail behind my house is too small to tune any thing but the pilot and air screw , may be the needle a little.

It used to be I had to short shift every gear to keep in the power with the dg, on one particular hill I would be just past the happy spot in 3rd looking for fourth, now second pulls faster and harder, putting me In happily in third and making alot more power for the steep spot, makes me wish I had some new tires to hold it down.

I love the nice ring it has at lower revs, the big meaty mid-range and the now noticable top end hit that pulls to the moon compared to what I had. Hard to believe one little piece of hollow pipe can make such a difference, I can't wait to get out where I can tune it in. I know I am blubber rich around half on up. Should be fun .

Later
Deebee
 
what main jet are you running ?

if I remember correctly most DG's run around the 260-ish range,
Toomey suggests a 310 to start plug chops
I suggest, needle on middle clip, and a full throttle plug chop before you fry sumthin
 
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what main jet are you running ?

if I remember correctly most DG's run around the 260-ish range,
Toomey suggests a 310 to start plug chops
I suggest, needle on middle clip, and a full throttle plug chop before you fry sumthin

So I was running 310 with the dg and needle 2nd clip (one clip lean), I already had a 320 and bought 330,340,350 as well.
But once I got the flange sealed to the motor 310 was rich.

Might go ahead and drop to 3rd clip on the needle, take it to the little slightly uphill field and see what the plug sags about Wot and half throttle.
 
a 310 with a stock imitation DG pipe ?
are you running a nylon stocking strectched over the carb for a filter ? LOL

no way a DG pipe required a 310 with common mods ...aftermarket filter, lid off
unless it has/had a serious airleak.
you've 1 full throttle run plug chop confirmed jetting ?

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
 
to tell you the truth
that toomey does need a airbox modification
as the instructions say either drill holes or lose the lid;)
i have owned 2 toomey set ups:) although every engine is different,and set up different
 
Well looks like that leak tester is moving to the top of the list. First off it really wasn't too rich, the toomey was just full of sploogey oil.

The pilot jet is ok although I could go smaller to get the air screw back in closer to 1 1/2 turns, rather than 2 1/2 or so.

Went to 3rd clip on needle made it a bit too rich at half, wanted to kind dull down and get smokey when pulling at 1/2 throttle, fanning the clutch just caused it to sputter.

Put in a 350 main (was at 310 on the DG) and could tell it was lean put In the mystery 360-370 ish main jet close but still not enough fuel. It comes on great at full throttle in 3rd bogging flutter the clutch and pray it doesn't catch traction because it's gonna come on the pipe either by spinning or by coming up and over.
It looks like I am going to end up around the 380-400 mark.
The only reasons for this I can figure is, either an air leak or the spacer I am using in place of the missing main jet washer isn't thick enough.
Float height is good, etc.

Anyone else think needing to use a 380+ main jet on this setup is evidence of a problem?
Plenty of compression, plenty of power (accidentally found myself dragging the rack short shifting into third at WOT.), but same as with the dg 270 or 280 main was expected I was at 310 now on the Toomey 310 or so is expected and I am at 360 and need a 380?

I am only 400 feet above sea level, keep my foam filter quite clean and am running a spacer on the reed stops so I didn't think too much of 360.
Maybe it would help to back the timing back down as it could easily be a tad advanced for the higher rpms I am running. Since changing pipes, power is just starting to peak, where I normally would have shifted, got to be running 1500 rpm higher than before considering 1000 rpm difference in the power band and 500 rpm past peak that wasn't usable with the dg.
a 310 with a stock imitation DG pipe ?
are you running a nylon stocking strectched over the carb for a filter ? LOL

no way a DG pipe required a 310 with common mods ...aftermarket filter, lid off
unless it has/had a serious airleak.
you've 1 full throttle run plug chop confirmed jetting ?

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/

Got a big write up about it , on my tablet that I forgot to post before I left the house but the long and short of it is.
I am at 370 with the Toomey and know it's too lean without a plug chop.
Even tho I live at 440 feet asl, unless not having the washer under the main jet is throwing it off that much I got a leak.
sold a heli waiting on the money to clear then I got to get a leak tester . I was putting it off since I had it safely jetted and confirmed at half and wot with plug chops, at least for the dg
now it's doo far off and the worst part is I already know that it is not leaking at the boot or header. base gasket looks good as well.
I am hoping the boiler line coming off the carb has sprung a leak somewhere because it doesn't gain or loose trans oil. Nothing leaks out into the stator cover, or clutch cover.
I am half afraid to find the leak, but no way I can cover it up with jetting now with the current setup
 
Anyone else think needing to use a 380+ main jet on this setup is evidence of a problem?

me, myself, and my brother mousey.
I run a toomey pipe on my black blaster, mods = lightly cleaned up porting, KOR modified head @ 150-ish compression, open airbox and uni filter.
toomey suggests a 310, that has to be safe for sea level, here at 1800' elevation, that bike rips with a 300 main jet.


not having the washer under the main jet is throwing it off that much

yes, it is throwing it off.
you must have the correct washer to hold the main jet in the fuel @ the correct level.

or you have an airleak.
 
i measured a main jet washer once with a digital caliper
it was 1/16 of an inch don't remember at the time the mm equivalent
but it would be like taking something apart
and having extra parts laying around when you are done installing! lol:eek:
ohh well guess i don't need that...research is soo under rated :p
 
i measured a main jet washer once with a digital caliper
it was 1/16 of an inch don't remember at the time the mm equivalent
but it would be like taking something apart
and having extra parts laying around when you are done installing! lol:eek:
ohh well guess i don't need that...research is soo under rated :p
1/16 of an inch is about 1.56 mm and there is a reason I called the work on this one, project used/abused blaster, it's real easy to tell everything the previous owner or his shade dee mechanic touched because it, is missing parts, has the wrong, stripped or crossthreaded bolts, or is somehow completely clustered up.:rolleyes:.

Anyhow I think the washer that i put under there is maybe 1/3 as thick as it should be, I really don't think that is going to completely needing to use a jet with a full 25% more flow, but then again the pilot aircrew, and needle settings all give good results, pretty much typical settings. I only have problems with the main jetting. and so far it's either off or on the same amount whether I run full throttle at low rpm, or full throttle at redline. I would think that with an air leak, it would be rpm dependant, as well as cause problems with partial throttle as well.

Anyhow I am going to let it set until I get the throttle cable for the vm28, which according to the mikuni has the same o.d. on both sides of the carb. (Inlet and outlet). Can't see fighting to get the 26 right just to swap it out.
By the time I get the cable for the 28 and get it in, I should have my leak tester on the way. (save me one ;))

I got to check the exploded view for the vm28 because it didn't have a washer behind the jet when I got it either.
Guy was running a 280 on a mostly stock bike (air box cover removed, dual stage reeds, and the vm28 (rather than modding the vm26 to accept an idle screw), don't know why it had only intake mods, but when he built it for real he used a 30 something mm carb that his engine builder reccomended.

I mean really if I am going to have to throw alcohol jets in it to get it to run.....well......lol....I at least won't let anyone see it until RUNS!!

It sucks tho I was really looking forward to riding the trails this weekend. Especially since my blaster sounds and runs like a heavy yz125. Which is a good thing in my book, especially when it used to run like a heavy xr100. Not that I have anything against honda.
 
Started looking around for a leak, first thing I realized is that flat edge on top of the carb where the cap goes it is missing a little less than a quarter of the thread. I would take a pic but it's like if you quatered a pizza and cut the crust off of 1/4 of the pizza in a nice straight linee That takes l some pizza with it.
Anyhow realized that edge was rough and not machined, just another favor the previous owner done me.

So I run a bead of high temp rtv across the underside of the cap making sure to fill the little gap.
Now it's running quite rich on a 370 main it will still hit the band but if you are lugging along on any sort of hill and floor it it will smoke and load up, before it gets up enough rpm to hit the band, if u allow or force it on the pipe it shoots a 25 foot long plume of 2 stroke smoke. So it definitely now rich since plugging up the carb cap leak.

As soon as my cable gets here i am just going to go to the vm28 laying in the garage and use the stocker for parts.
Looks like I am going to have to add another post in the used abused thread.

Cracked carb cap threads. Gotta love those used deals. Wouldn't be soo bad on some other bikes like a water cooled banshee, it is at least complicated enough that a complete moron usually keep it running.
 
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Well I can quit lying to myself now, and pass the retard hat this way.........I will say no more but I think now is a good time to go ahead and have that jug I have been working on bored out, might have to wait for that piston I am about to order the get here first.
Oh before that I think i will actually pressure test it now, since I can't tell myself it'll be ok and simply ride off.
60 for a rechamber, 85 for a piston, plus 80 for a bore plus 20 x2 for shipping?
265
I already have a base gasket and crank seals were ordered this morning,
Another 40 for a top end kit
35 for a leak tester that or I will have to finish the one I started on when I wasn't having too much fun to care.
The good news is that I will have those extra ponies alot sooner now.

I am old and married and never thought I would get a chance to say this again but D@MN that's tight, really really really tight.
:oops::eek:o_O:confused::mad::oops::oops::oops::( ;)
Yep, it happened again, just like every other my first 2 stroke owner, who takes a leaky stocker and throws an extra 30% power to it.

Later in the day
Any how I already got the stopper for the exhaust a couple weeks ago, and I picked up a carb plug and an adapter while I was out that allowed me to mount a tire valve in it. I hoked up a foot pump gAve it a push and the guage fell faster than it climbed. I had to keep pushing the pump just to find where the air was coming out. Turns out I have a massive air leak between the case halves, it starts about an inch above the front corner and goes back to about where the 2nd case bolt back under the stator side cover.

Soooooo....gotta get a case splitter and a full gasket set, I am gonna wait until I get the top off and check the big end bearing before I start ordering parts.