Things you will need...
1. A stock exhaust with original flange
2. Or use an 1 3/4 inch ID spacer (I suggest #1)
3. a pipe cutter & a grinder wheel
4. A welder, or you can take it somewhere to get it done
5. 12 & 13mm ratchet, Phillips head screw driver to remove header/silencer
6. A friend or just an extra set of hands to help hold things in place
Okay so what I did instead of paying $41 for a new flange from FMF is, cut the end with the flange exactly above where it starts to curve (about 4-5 inch's from the end)you only need about 2 inch's of lenth to play with but just to be safe give yourself some extra room. You can always cut it shorter if you need to but if you go to short you just destroyed your stock header and might not be able to make it work according to my instructions now. Once you got it cut you need to taper the end about a 1/2-3/4 of an inch so it can snuggly slide into your new exhaust (FMF Fatty Pipe). I used a rubber mallet and beat it down so it sat in as far as I could get it and I knew there was a decent amount sitting inside now, then mark it with a sharpie to see where your at. Go ahead and test fit it now. If your too long and things are not lining up or your hitting/sitting on the frame you need to go shorter. Remember to be careful with your cuts though... Better safe then sorry! The way mine sits now I can slide my finger between the frame and the header pipe. Once you get it to the right lenth and you got a (pencil like) taper get it in tight and give it a tack weld while it installed/test fitting remove it again and then weld all the way around. Make sure you clean up your welds and once it cools down you can give it a few coats of high temp clear coat do it looks nice and stays protected for a while. And if you want to use a big spacer instead of going the other route, you just need to test fit it on your cylinder and mark where the threads would go through then drill the 2 holes, make sure it fits over your new pipe and weld it on the end. I wouldn't really do it this way unless I didn't have an stock exhaust laying around but you could always get em off eBay really cheap. I cleaned up my FMF header and my homemade flange because they both had rust. I did this with a wire wheel. If yours are not rusted you should be fine but make sure you clean up the area nice that you are going to be welding on. I hope this helped someone out... It saved me $41.00 and I can bet it's stronger then any other flange you could buy. (the down side to doing this is that if it breaks for some reason you need to sorta redo the entire process instead of just slipping the broke one off and putting a new one off). I guess you would have to grind it off and re weld it again. Lol once you weld it on it's there for life, no going back to aftermarket flanges unless you do like I said and grind the thing off. Good luck and let me know what you think or anything I could of done differently to make this easier or better...
1. A stock exhaust with original flange
2. Or use an 1 3/4 inch ID spacer (I suggest #1)
3. a pipe cutter & a grinder wheel
4. A welder, or you can take it somewhere to get it done
5. 12 & 13mm ratchet, Phillips head screw driver to remove header/silencer
6. A friend or just an extra set of hands to help hold things in place
Okay so what I did instead of paying $41 for a new flange from FMF is, cut the end with the flange exactly above where it starts to curve (about 4-5 inch's from the end)you only need about 2 inch's of lenth to play with but just to be safe give yourself some extra room. You can always cut it shorter if you need to but if you go to short you just destroyed your stock header and might not be able to make it work according to my instructions now. Once you got it cut you need to taper the end about a 1/2-3/4 of an inch so it can snuggly slide into your new exhaust (FMF Fatty Pipe). I used a rubber mallet and beat it down so it sat in as far as I could get it and I knew there was a decent amount sitting inside now, then mark it with a sharpie to see where your at. Go ahead and test fit it now. If your too long and things are not lining up or your hitting/sitting on the frame you need to go shorter. Remember to be careful with your cuts though... Better safe then sorry! The way mine sits now I can slide my finger between the frame and the header pipe. Once you get it to the right lenth and you got a (pencil like) taper get it in tight and give it a tack weld while it installed/test fitting remove it again and then weld all the way around. Make sure you clean up your welds and once it cools down you can give it a few coats of high temp clear coat do it looks nice and stays protected for a while. And if you want to use a big spacer instead of going the other route, you just need to test fit it on your cylinder and mark where the threads would go through then drill the 2 holes, make sure it fits over your new pipe and weld it on the end. I wouldn't really do it this way unless I didn't have an stock exhaust laying around but you could always get em off eBay really cheap. I cleaned up my FMF header and my homemade flange because they both had rust. I did this with a wire wheel. If yours are not rusted you should be fine but make sure you clean up the area nice that you are going to be welding on. I hope this helped someone out... It saved me $41.00 and I can bet it's stronger then any other flange you could buy. (the down side to doing this is that if it breaks for some reason you need to sorta redo the entire process instead of just slipping the broke one off and putting a new one off). I guess you would have to grind it off and re weld it again. Lol once you weld it on it's there for life, no going back to aftermarket flanges unless you do like I said and grind the thing off. Good luck and let me know what you think or anything I could of done differently to make this easier or better...
