Help with idling

[Cameron884]

Hey everyone,
I'll start off by saying I'm not extremely mechanical so be gentle with any explanations . My blaster is an '05 and we got it used about a year ago. It had been parked for a while and didn't run at all when we got it, but my father in law worked on the carb and got it running and I've been using it since then, but it's never idled. I spoke with a co-worker and he suggested the pilot jet and he ended up being correct. It was all jammed up so it's now all cleared out. I thoroughly cleaned the carb and cranked it right up but still no idle. I got it to idle a little, but if given any throttle it would run away and scream wide open. I then discovered the air filter was completely rotted and falling apart to the touch so I replaced it. I jacked around with the idle screw and ended up stripping it on the Tors unit so I installed a delete kit, a new idle screw and shorted the Tors black and yellow wires on the correct side. Again I'm not very mechanical so shockingly I was able to crank it right up after doing all of this, but still no idle. I've played with the idle screw and the threading on the throttle cable on top of the carb, but still no luck. With the throttle cable backed out of the carb some I did get it to idle, but it ran away again on me and I couldn't get it to idle any slower without running away given any throttle. Also noted that the slide was more open than I'd expect it should be when the throttle cable was backed out(probably at least a quarter inch gap at the bottom of the slide).
I have left the Tors cable in the throttle handle just to keep the whole clogged, but have it clipped under the hood and I didn't remove any Tors brain which I didn't see in the 03-06 Tors removal guide so I don't think these are of any effect, but I've been wrong before. I checked the intake and it did have some debris from the old air filter but have cleaned it all out as well and the reeds all look okay. Any further advice for a nooby on getting this thing to idle? Thanks for all the help and helpful forums to get me this far.

 

[Cameron884]

Also others than the Tors mod it is completely stock as far as I can tell. Still injected, etc

 

[pudvah]

Your post is screaming " I have an air leak" I know you say you're not very mechanically inclined but by following the DIYs on this site anyone can do it, you already cleaned the carb and deleted the TORS yourself so give yourself some credit.

Read up on air leaks and leakdown testing ON THIS SITE. You can build a leak tester yourself or buy one from a member on this site, I built one myself from Lowes for 36 dollars and you need one to own a 2 stroke.

If you find an air leak which I think you will there are many options to get it fixed cost effective if you don't want to do it yourself. Good luck man and the people on this site know so much and are awesome in helping us get our quads running right.

 

[Blaaster]

What pudvah said!

 

[Cameron884]

Thanks so much for the quick response guys. I'll check out the leak down test section and report back in a few days when I'm able to work on it again. A month ago I couldn't have pointed to the carb, these forums have some awesome info

 

[speedyslyder]

everything sayed above/\
and check for good fuel flow from tank to carb/to intake
if it is starving for fuel it will rev up like that to.

it revs up because of too much air,not enough gas/or your slide is getting stuck

What is the air screw set at??

 

[Awk08]

cameron, answer the message I sent you, I need your shipping info to send the tester

 

[Cameron884]

Message sent awk thanks. Speedy, the air mixture screw is set 1.5 turns out and the slide seems to be operating freely without sticking except when I had the throttle cable almost out to the last thread, that's when it was running away

 

[speedyslyder]

there should be a little slack in throttle cable.
if you have to tighten it to the point that it is super tight,or idle increases
when you turn your handlebars something is wrong
there is probably like 3 adjustments on your new cable if you got the kit
make sure the top cover is tight as well lol

but yes sounds like a airleak,but a whacked out carb or fuel problem, incorrect spark plug will not help either.

 

[Cameron884]

hey gentlemen, sorry I've been MIA but work and life has been crazy and I finally got a whack and testing out the leak down tester this evening. It did drop a little but not as significantly as I expected. It dropped from about 7 to 6 over about 10 minutes. I sprayed the soapy water around everything and the only bubbling I noticed was right at the intake boot between the reeds and the carb. I'll probably try and get some liquid gasket type stuff to try and seal off that little air leak, but do you guys think that small of a leak would cause all the issues I was experiencing or could there be a different issue going on here? Speedy, how would you recommend checking the fuel flow from tank to carb to intake? If I turn the fuel on it seems to flow pretty well from the tank to the carb, but I'm not sure how I would check the flow between the carb and intake. Thanks again for all the help everyone and for getting the leakdown tester to me so quick awk, I had hoped to get it tested out before now

 

[Awk08]

I'll probably try and get some liquid gasket type stuff to try and seal off that little air leak

hi-temp copper rtv or yamabond works best, both stay semi-flexible and don't "harden"
allow either to cure overnight, then re-test

the only bubbling I noticed was right at the intake boot between the reeds and the carb, but do you guys think that small of a leak would cause all the issues I was experiencing

it held the 6 lbs for 10 minutes ?, if so, thats not causing your issues.
I never worry about a pound or less drop, as long as it holds 5-6 lbs. for 5-10 minutes. I run it
(it's never been proven what amount of pressure, or for how long, an engine MUST hold pressure, we just know over 7/8-ish can blow your crank seals)

use the sealants mentioned above to seal the intake for piece of mind, and prevent the small leak from possibly getting worse someday.

 

[speedyslyder]

i don't know where to start
you had a issue with idle adjustment being stripped
then dirty carb
then airfilter.

i don't see how it is running away if the slide is returning and installed correctly,with a blaster slide/throttle valve yamaha is calling it,or mikuni whatever
no air leak, airscrew set at 1 1/2 turns from fully seated
needle in middle clip poisition/i dont know if there is any mods done to it?
what does the pilot jet read on it?what does main jet read on it?
stock pilot is 32.5 stock main is like 240 different depending on where it was sold i guess?

take pics of you carb and post them..if you can take it apart and post them to that might help
make sure all of the parts are in there.
fresh gas new ngk b8es spark plug without touching the gap.You can check it but it should be dead on.

compression test should be 120psi
reeds fully closing

it goes from not idleing to screaming??
no air leak? carb is messed up or you got a spark plug that is nearly touching=glow plug lol
pics?

i guess you could loosen drain on carb to see if it flows good.
loosen gas cap to see that it is venting properly
check float height....You should be able to see through the pilot when held up to a light.
it is at the bottom right of pic just so we are on the same pg...cuz people have taken the wrong ones out before lol

the jet needle #4 could be bent,not allowing it to retract all the way down,then gettiing stuck when you lift it.....take pics with carb on quad and apart if you can...

 

[Cameron884]

thanks guys, I'll pick up some of the hi temp copper RTV gasket stuff tomorrow to seal that up.

As far as mods the only one done to it is the TORS removal. The pilot jet is 32.5 and I replaced it as one of my first steps. It did get a little more gunk in it before I realized the air filter was mush, but I've since recleaned it all out. I'm not 100% on the main, but I'll confirm that when I get it apart. The reeds fully close and that all checked out ok. I'll take a look and try to get some pics up tomorrow. Thanks for all the help fellas

 

[Blaaster]

Do not over tighten the carb boot screws, this can warp the boot and reed cage and cause an air leak.

5.8 ft lbs, no more, and a little at a time diagonally.

 

[Cameron884]

Alright so there are probably going to be a lot of photos, so sorry in advance. BUT... On a positive note when thoroughly going over the carb while I had it apart today, I found that while the pilot jet(removable) was clean and clear, the actual hole it leads to in the carb was completely crudded closed. I had previously thought it was just another hole in the carb that turned so I couldn't straight through but while looking today something clicked and I realized this wasn't the case. So I was able to clean it out and after reassembling was able to get it to idle and not scream away! The only issue was bogging out at full throttle so I'll need to make a few more adjustments but definite progress. Thanks again for all your help everyone, and here's the wall of pictures starting with successful idling!

I think my first check for the "bogging down" at top end will be to replace the plug as it seems a little blacker than I'd imagine it should.



You can see in this one that you can't see through the pilot jet while it's in

And here's the clean jet itself

And here I was able to clean out the pilot hole in the carb and place the jet back in.

here's my mod, the tors removal. Again much props to this site for instructions,
my only advice would be that the fuel tank and all that doesn't need to be removed to
route the new throttle cable, simply tape it to the old one and and trace it through. At least save a little dis-assembly


All mounted up and ready to rev(minus the fuel isn't turned on yet)

 

[Blaaster]

That pic of the plug looks fine for a plug pulled out after a period of idling.

One cannot really tell anything by looking at a plug unless it has been used to do a plug chop.