grizzly 350 overheating

Reaper26

Member
Sep 5, 2012
215
0
43
alabama
my brother has a grizzly 350 dont know the year but it was the first they made it, it has done this since he bought it, and has been to the shop many times since then for them to tell him there is nothing wrong with it. at the end of the summer last year we were all riding after a couple hours it got so hot the dip stick melted and blew out (him and his gf had on shorts and burnt all their skin off) we havent messed with it till today. i got new oil and dipstick and after 2 mins of riding it around at work to check the oil it had almost melted the new stick, its getting very hot!! any ideas what could cause it? i was goin to straight wire the fan on the oil cooler and just let it run all the time or put a toggle switch on it, but im pretty sure the fan is kicking in. help me out guys, he wants to take his gf's kids riding this weekend and we dont need that to happen again.
 
Have anyone blown the oil lines to cooler out, and cooler? Only use about 10lbs or so. Disconnect lines at both ends and do lines and cooler seperate. If any one of them is plugged start spraying brake cleaner in it.

How does the plug look? It's not running lean is it?

Bet each time the stealership couldn't find anything they still charged him.
 
they didnt charge him cuz it was warranty,but i took the oil cooler loose and it stopped up with mud, the fins in front are bent and the fan is locked up now. the fan worked when it blew the oil out last year but the cooler coulda been clogged, well have a fan tomorrow and ill test it then, we go more oil in case i need to take the cooler off.
 
O, I was under impression it was older. I'd be batching up a storm if it was overheating and they couldn't find cause :mad:. Next thing ya know it will be out of warrenty and it'll blow up, then what??:rolleyes:
 
If you still have the trouble tickets from taking it in, I'd drain the oil, run it until it blows, add the old oil back, crank the engine over a few times to get the oil back in all the crevices, and take it back to them and say, "See, I told you." As a member of Blasterforum and as a mechanic, I have to tell you not to do that. I will tell you that if I had that problem with a dealership that I'd do exactly what I told you.

If you're opposed to that...

Check to see if it's running lean and check compression. If there was ever an instance where the oil overheated and lost effectiveness, the sleeve could have been damaged and the piston could have melted around the rings. We see it so much more often than you'd believe and they run just fine for a pretty good while, they jut run hot and either jack compression up by a little or they show a big drop in compression.

Also, let the engine cool down and remove an oil line and start the engine for only a second or so. If oil shoots out, your pump is good. The key word there is to start it for only a second. The existing oil will provide more than enough lubrication for 50-75 revolutions (2-3 seconds).

I'll call over to the Yamaha shop tomorrow and see what they say. They give info out for free to employees (I'm on the Honda side).
 
the e fan was locked up, i cleaned the cooler very well. it ran good all weekend until late sat, then started doing it again and now the oil seal behind the pull start is leaking. so maybe after i get that fixed it will be ok.
 
The reason that that seal is leaking is possibly that it has been destroyed by the excessive overheating.

Every other bit of neoprene in the engine will to have been stresses beyond serviceable conditions from the heat.