couple issues

Are the paper like gaskets bad to use? I think i may try taking off the gasket i put between the intake boot and the reed cage.

I will most likely order one of those kits. IT looks like the only size sold is 68mm will that work with a .25 bore?

yeah mine said 68mm on it also, i used one paper and then one cometic on my reedcage setup
 
FLOAT ADJUSTMENT

Remove the carb

Remove the float bowl

Hold carb upside down

Measure distance between the top of the float and where the float bowl screws to the carb

float height should be 20.0 - 21.5mm (0.79 - 0.85 in)

the float arm should be resting on the needle valve but not compressing it

adlust the height by bending the tang on the float

so i pull the float up and measure from the bottom of the float down to the edge part where the bowl bolts back to the carb?

also what is the tang?
 
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yeah mine said 68mm on it also, i used one paper and then one cometic on my reedcage setup

I guess i'll go ahead and order it. I need the exhaust flange gasket anyways right now the flange is bolted directly to the motor.

I ordered a V force 3 reeds too. I figured since i really wanted these and it had gaskets with it, i'd just go for it... When ever i do get it running right it will be pretty nice.

Will the V force 3 reeds require different jet sizes?
 
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Go to general support there's a sticky there for downloading a blaster manual. Look at the carb section (around page 127)and it will tell you what you need to know. The tang is the little tab on the floats that holds the wire that holds the needle valve on the float.
 
Go to general support there's a sticky there for downloading a blaster manual. Look at the carb section (around page 127)and it will tell you what you need to know. The tang is the little tab on the floats that holds the wire that holds the needle valve on the float.

so this woudl be the same for an OKO carb?
 
definately, dont get discouraged, once you get all the bugs worked out blasters are very reliable I:I

im just hopeing that i dont end up needing a new needle. IDK what brand all the junk was that the carb came with but i had to replace the needle holder, adn the jets becuase what ever it had was not the kihen like it was suposed to have. I guess i'll get the carb to work eventually.

Hopefully the jets i have now will work with the new reeds, i have every pilot from 45-58, and i have 150-158 main's.

I'm feeling somewhat discouraged now... as ive spent like 80 bucks on jets and stuff for this carb and have yet to get the blaster to rev up once...
 
If you hold the carb upside down with the float bowl off and the floats look straight or parallel with the body of the carb that the float bowl screws into (where the groove for the float bowl gasket is )you should be pretty close.
 
ok, something else i thought of that might make a difference. Im trying to run 93 octane. Would this cause any issues?
 
do the reed cage bolts need to be torqued? I think the manual calls for them to be, but is it really needed for these? I would think as long as i snug them and then turn the same amount of turns it woudl be fine.

If not i guess i'll have to buy a small torque wrench
 
do the reed cage bolts need to be torqued? I think the manual calls for them to be, but is it really needed for these? I would think as long as i snug them and then turn the same amount of turns it woudl be fine.

If not i guess i'll have to buy a small torque wrench

there is a torque setting for them im sure but ive never put a torque wrench to them. whats your current issue?? like what is happening right now with the machine? i dont want to dig thru 100 posts lol
 
there is a torque setting for them im sure but ive never put a torque wrench to them. whats your current issue?? like what is happening right now with the machine? i dont want to dig thru 100 posts lol

idles fine, give it gas, engine dies at like 1/8th throttle
 
FLOAT ADJUSTMENT

Remove the carb

Remove the float bowl

Hold carb upside down

Measure distance between the top of the float and where the float bowl screws to the carb

float height should be 20.0 - 21.5mm (0.79 - 0.85 in)

the float arm should be resting on the needle valve but not compressing it

adlust the height by bending the tang on the float

ok, when we measure, are we measureing the front of the float, or are we measuring the middle of the float where it would be at its highest poing?

Its 20mm in the front, and about 23-24 in the middle where the floats highest point is.



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i was also watching my the needle today and it looks as though just before it hits full throttle is starts leaning towards the side instead of being perfectly verticle. Is this normal? the needle doesent appear to be bent i took it out and rolled it on the table and it stayed flat the entrire time