blaster disaster...help

[Blaaster]

The correct way to start a Blaster engine as well as most 2 stroke engines I know, is to pull out the fuel enrichment knob [choke] and keep your thumb off the throttle as you kick it.

If you have to give an engine any throttle to start there is usually something with the idle setting or the float level is incorrect.

The above must be corrected for the engine to operate correctly.

 

[Larry's Shee]

You might be on to something with timing. Is TORS properly dis abled? Parking brake. Not familular with adjustable timing plate, IF it came with instructions, double check. Do you have it set at 0*, +4, or what?
Maybe you have it set retarded instead of advanced. From 0* you would turn clockwise to advance.
Double check carb. Check wires, specifically to cdi, and grounds. If you have a spare cdi try that.

That's one drawback of a 2s, can be real MoFo when flooded. If you have the time, remove plug, rotate plug to BDC and let sit as long as possible. Place clean rag/paper towel over plug hole. Use another new plug.

Report back please.

 

[speedyslyder]

ha ha ha haha haaahhh damn you got your work cut out im glad i did not buy that guys quad wooo...anyways i was also wondering you said it was running then it stopped..were you riding it ????or did you park it then next day nothing?????? if you were riding and it quit....and...you had a problem with crank seal...perehaps that is still were your problem lies ... your crank bearing could have got soooo hot that it put to much strain for the motor to keep shoveing it back n forth .......god i hope you figure this out ..if not it was a fun journey along the way ....wouldnt you say..... .....also you said air was coming out of vent????? did you mean crankcase breather tube right???? i forgot to ask???? that smoke that you say comes out of exhaust does it smell like your 2 stroke oil ??? or your gear oil???? take larry's shee advice about that cdi box tooo..........i still think you have stock main bearings from the year 2000

 

[DUALSTROKE]

aaaaahhhhh, thats the baffle broken loose in there, it will indeed get stuck in some positions that will block the pipe, and drive you nuts with bogging and jetting nightmares, it got me once.

time for a new pipe before you waste any further time, effort, or $
or cut it open, remove baffle and weld the trap door shut

^^^^^^^^^This. That baffle will get the best of you. Time for a new exhaust!!

 

[speedyslyder]

I THINK CRAIGSLIST WOULD BE CHEAPEST IF YOU COULD GET SOMEONE ON PHONE AND ITS LOCAL ...OR YOU CAN WAIT FOR IT IN MAIL OFF E-BAY..

 

[Mikol81]

I did mean crankcase breather tube but there was no tube on it. i changed that seal and no more leak. my son was riding it when it quit. he was not specific about how it quit. actually he was likely beating on it and would fib about it anyway. and the exhaust smells like mix oil. what happens if it smells like gear oil??

 

[Blaaster]

If it stinks, somehow tranny oil is being sucked into the crankcase.

 

[Mikol81]

bad seal

 

[tayter]

Hey when i built my first blaster i had the same problem, it ended up being a bunch of gunk and crap inside the exaust so what i did was cut it in half where the rattling was, dumped it out and welded it back together after that it started and ran great, also with the parking brake wires idk if they cause i problem on blasters but my buddy had a banshee and the wires were cut there i dont remember exactly how he fixed it idk if he just spliced them together or what but that could be a problem as well

 

[Mikol81]

I finally got time to pick this up again (weather has kept me in). I went back to it and nothing had changed. So I took a I got a different carb(dirty and beat up) and tried that. same crap.
Yesterday I removed the adjustable stator and took the coils off it and put them on the old fixed stator plate. started on the first kick.
However! Now it only will run on full choke and revs higher and higher on its own until it dies. I am guessing I need to put the original carb back on and it might clear that up. any thoughts??? and thanks for all the responses.

 

[Mikol81]

that second line is a tad confusing but we can figure it out...

 

[Herpderplol]

Clean the carb,

set the float height.
check jets.
Air leak test.
leave stock plate on.

 

[speedyslyder]

whats up miko181 what carb are we talking about? is it stock. did you ever fix exhaust?

 

[Blaaster]

I finally got time to pick this up again (weather has kept me in). I went back to it and nothing had changed. So I took a I got a different carb(dirty and beat up) and tried that. same crap.
Yesterday I removed the adjustable stator and took the coils off it and put them on the old fixed stator plate. started on the first kick.
However! Now it only will run on full choke and revs higher and higher on its own until it dies. I am guessing I need to put the original carb back on and it might clear that up. any thoughts??? and thanks for all the responses.

Classic symptom of fuel starvation, air leak, crap in the needle and seat, sticky float, blocked tank filler cap breather or not enough fuel in the tank.

Crack the float bowl drain screw open and see ifa constant flow of fuel issues from the drain.

Sometimes a maladjusted idle may return those symptoms as well.

 

[Mikol81]

no on the exhaust, the carb is one from another blaster or banshee not sure a guy had it laying around it's the same , I'm gonna clean it up and see what's what with it. I will have some time this weekend to investigate deeper. I feel I am getting close, maybe I can reassemble it soon and dare I say ride it.

 

[speedyslyder]

make sure you have all the carb parts you need them all. this is stock carb scroll over these images in the link it will tell you the name of parts..

http://www.motosport.com/atv/oem-parts/YAMAHA/2000/BLASTER/CARBURETOR

 

[Mikol81]

I am thinking my carb is missing something. the other dirty one might be my new carb. after a good cleaning of course

 

[Mikol81]

carb is clean got it running and then I saw the trans oil bubbling out and white smoke from the exhaust.. perhaps the new seal has come loose? or worse yet a crack of some kind. it did pass the leak test so i am guessing the seal coming loose is the reason. is there a special grease or adhesive to use when putting those seals in or do they go in dry?
I read somewhere to use grease and did. can they just pop out like that? well anyway I will open it up tomorrow and see but It would be nice to know what to expect. any thoughts?

 

[Blaaster]

Seals have been known to pop out.

Fully clean the case and the seal and apply a little bonding agent to both the case and the seal and press in.

Apply a little oil or grease to the rubber part of the seal.

 

[Mikol81]

This Blaster is running normally. I have learned many things that will make it easier to figure out next time, thanks to all!