i need to change my axle bearing and i have new ones but was wondering what has to be done to change them like do i have to remove the axle?/? and what else?
axle bearings?
- Thread starter jfblasterboy65
- Start date
I've done two other rear bearing changes, both on Yamaha's. The first change didn't last one ride - dealer had to bail me out! The second on my boy's Blaster was a success. I also just changed axle and bearings on a Predator 500 the other day - another success - Im learning!!
Some things I learned doing the changes:
1. Work neat, and clean the carrier, spacer, sprocket and rotor hubs meticulously inside and out, the whole assembly needs to be seated, and fit together perfectly, if not you're asking for trouble.
2. After getting the axle off (you may have to tap it from one end) remove the carrier - clean it and inspect for any damaged surfaces inside.
3. Carefully remove the bearings and seals by placing a punch through the carrier and spacer at an angle and tap out the opposite side bearing/seal.
4. When installing the new bearings and seals, let them set in the freezer overnight. Heat the end of the carrier evenly with a torch, apply some anti-sieze comound to the carrier and drop the frozen bearing into place! Tap them all the way around to ensure they are seated properly - tap lightly (the one side of mine almost pushed in by hand - sweet - very little tapping). Do the same with the seals - if you have to tap - tap lightly.
5. Remember to install the spacer prior to the other bearing.(dealers mechanic told me to check the size of the spacer and get new one if its out of tolerance).
6. Make sure the splines are good on the axle, check the sprocket hub, brake hub and wheel hubs - if there's any movement you're in for a new axle and hub(s). In my case the sprocket hub moved on the axle - imo the only good solution is to replace both (happened on all 3 bikes i own).
7. Put all axle components back together (use anti-sieze at all spline surfaces) and tighten axle nut to specified torque - and since you and I dont have a gigantic torque wrench, I'll do that one by feel - my Yamaha dealer mechanic said to really crank those axle nuts - i used a little thread lock too!
8. Test it up on the jack, rear wheels should spin pretty freely! Tighten chain as described in manual and other posts here and hope for the best!!
good luck with your bearing changes
Some things I learned doing the changes:
1. Work neat, and clean the carrier, spacer, sprocket and rotor hubs meticulously inside and out, the whole assembly needs to be seated, and fit together perfectly, if not you're asking for trouble.
2. After getting the axle off (you may have to tap it from one end) remove the carrier - clean it and inspect for any damaged surfaces inside.
3. Carefully remove the bearings and seals by placing a punch through the carrier and spacer at an angle and tap out the opposite side bearing/seal.
4. When installing the new bearings and seals, let them set in the freezer overnight. Heat the end of the carrier evenly with a torch, apply some anti-sieze comound to the carrier and drop the frozen bearing into place! Tap them all the way around to ensure they are seated properly - tap lightly (the one side of mine almost pushed in by hand - sweet - very little tapping). Do the same with the seals - if you have to tap - tap lightly.
5. Remember to install the spacer prior to the other bearing.(dealers mechanic told me to check the size of the spacer and get new one if its out of tolerance).
6. Make sure the splines are good on the axle, check the sprocket hub, brake hub and wheel hubs - if there's any movement you're in for a new axle and hub(s). In my case the sprocket hub moved on the axle - imo the only good solution is to replace both (happened on all 3 bikes i own).
7. Put all axle components back together (use anti-sieze at all spline surfaces) and tighten axle nut to specified torque - and since you and I dont have a gigantic torque wrench, I'll do that one by feel - my Yamaha dealer mechanic said to really crank those axle nuts - i used a little thread lock too!
8. Test it up on the jack, rear wheels should spin pretty freely! Tighten chain as described in manual and other posts here and hope for the best!!
good luck with your bearing changes
yes remove the axle from the carrier, i would suggest changing the bearings also while you have it apart! but standing at the rear of the bike, the axle comes out to the right side! and i think i put the left side seal on the axle and the right side in the carrier before i put the axle back in! but also make sure you have that spacer on the axle to!
basicaly remove all the stuff off the chain side of your axle, then tap the axle out, use a socket or a board or something so you dont smash up the threads on your axle, when you get it out you have to tap the bearrings out through the oposite side oviously, but be clean, and carefull not to dent or scratch anything, or youll be buying a new axle or carrier. and always use lots of grease in the bearings, if things are stuck and wont come do not hit it harder buy some penetrating oil and let it soak in overnight then try again, and like the other guy said use anti sieze on all splines. its not hard its just tediouse, be gentle, and be clean, and always grease your bearings
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