So I haven't posted in a while since I had to go to school but before I came I installed a TORS eliminator kit on my quad because it would not idle. Then when I installed the kit the idle adjustment screw really doesn't seem to do anything. I mean it goes into the carb body but it doesnt seem to hold the slide in place if thats what it supposed to do, if my understanding is wrong of that PLEASE I could use some help. Right now I'm still trying to get it started but the issue I kept running into for almost half of my summer is that the quad would start (not really idle) but when I put it into first and no matter how slow I let out the clutch it would lurch forward, stop and die. Please I could really use some help withe the idle screw because im just very confused on whats going on.
01 Yamaha Blaster TORS Eliminator Kit Issues
- Thread starter ineedanapnow
- Start date
Sometimes you have to remove a little more material off the boss you drilled the hole in.
The tapered end of the screw should screw in and go under the slide to lift it to adjust it.
Look into the end of the barrel and see if the screw is long enough to lift the slide.
The tapered end of the screw should screw in and go under the slide to lift it to adjust it.
Look into the end of the barrel and see if the screw is long enough to lift the slide.
Now how exactly should I adjust it? From what I heard I have someone open up the throttle and screw the screw in to where I like. But what Im confused is how I know that's even working, if screwing it in will even do anything at that point, And I have taken it apart before the screw will go in enough.
The end of the screw should protrude just under where the slide seats.
If the hole has been drilled in the right place, there will be no need to lift the slide with the throttle, the tapered end of the screw should do it.
If the screw has been drilled at too much of a downward angle, it will not touch the slide.
If the hole has been drilled in the right place, there will be no need to lift the slide with the throttle, the tapered end of the screw should do it.
If the screw has been drilled at too much of a downward angle, it will not touch the slide.
Ok thank you, the screw protrudes straight into the body and the slide sits right on it. Now everytime I've put the whole throttle/ carb assembly back together I just feel like it does nothing for the machine to make it idle, since till this day it will not idle. Now could it be a matter of the correct amount of tension on the throttle cable, because honestly i have NO IDEA how to get that part of the adjustment just right.
Ya the idle screw seems to be do nothing it seems to protrude into the declined indent into the slide that seems to line up straight where the screw is
Well it still has issues getting out of idle underload, I had my buddy get me into a roll while I was in neutral and then tried running it in first but the throttle really wasnt responsive and it crapped out on me after really just a few yards. Now when it was idling I played around with and got the idle screw to be able to adjust the slide but it was idling high and when I did give the proper amount of play in the throttle I couldnt get it to start again
I would love a pic, are you certain you have drilled the correct side of the carb.
I am suspecting an air leak.
The screw you got is too short.
I had this same problem on my current blaster. Had an extra air screw, that was longer, and it idles good now. I even have enough space to raise the idle.
I had this same problem on my current blaster. Had an extra air screw, that was longer, and it idles good now. I even have enough space to raise the idle.
i never liked any of the idle screws that come in either the vito's or motion pro kits.
the wrench tightened jam nut on the vitos came loose and fell out on the first ride.
i took my carb down to my local cernics suzuki and they fitted an idle screw from some suzuki that matched the threads i drilled/tapped.
it is a longer screw with a big knurled head on it, so adjusting it by hand is possible, and it uses a spring to tension it in place, no locking nut to come loose on the trails.
been working great for around 4 years now.
the wrench tightened jam nut on the vitos came loose and fell out on the first ride.
i took my carb down to my local cernics suzuki and they fitted an idle screw from some suzuki that matched the threads i drilled/tapped.
it is a longer screw with a big knurled head on it, so adjusting it by hand is possible, and it uses a spring to tension it in place, no locking nut to come loose on the trails.
been working great for around 4 years now.
Well I was able to correctly set everything so the idle screw actually controls the idle, but still ran into the issue of it not being able to come into a full roll. The true issue is that the engine cannot handle being under load for some odd reason as it never did this to me when I did have it running around May of this year. As I said earlier my friend pushed me while I had it idling in neutral and I popped it into first and tried to get it to actually work under load like you normally would (give it gas, bring the clutch out slow) but the quad really didnt seem to respond and died on my after a few feet.
thats sounds reed petals or electrical to me.
both will fire and idle, but die as soon as a load is put on it.
have you removed the tors brain under the hood ? black box w/ 3 wire plug
beside the CDI box
good strong spark ?
check reed petals, plug wire and boot (metal connection to plug),
good ground at the coil, try a new plug, and lastely the flywheel woodruff key
and report back
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