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Yes I did it properly lol. And I respect that

Alright update guys...I had taken the jug back in and my shop made it right and shipped it out to a shop. Its running great...Friday night I swapped main jet down to 280 after 310 being way rich. Yesterday I adjusted clutch because it was slipping a bit. Also plug chopped it yesterday. Plug...

Along with the plastic spacer on the bottom as well?

I know. I went ahead and ordered 280-310

just for reference, I had put a 340(one of the mains that came in that kit) in and set the needle, and it seemed really rich, so that does seem more in the ball park of where it needs to be.

814ft above sea level. I'm in ohio...its around 80 right now

No, the first go around was 67.25 bore....when I had the jug sent back out they bored it again with another piston, 67.5mm piston to match the new 67.50mm bore this time. Both times it was bored it the bore was matched to the piston. Sorry if I confused you guys a little.

Ok guys, I bought a blaster that needed a new top end....long story short I decided to rebuild the whole top and bottom end. new crank, bearings, seals and new top end. I had to go out to 67.25mm bore. Wiseco piston. I lubed up everything really good. I'm almost certain I had the rings lined up...

I have just done the Tors delete kit with aftermarket cap and throttle cable with the idle screw in side of carb. I know theres a lot of people that have done this modification. Out of curiosity what did everyone do to tighten the idle screw or get it to stay into place. I've used a screwdriver...

For the axle I have it is all the same. and it set me back 160 unfortunately.

i called durablue, they had all parts in stock, they are ordered

ok, so with this being said, do I have to go through durablue to get these parts or do other companies make them that interchange?

here ya go.

I bought this 06 blaster, and it has a wider durablue rear axle. The hubs look to be stock Yamaha hubs with new hub nuts...well both hubs slide back and forth because they're not the right hubs, the same for the sprocket hub, it doesn't have a stop nut or anything, what are the correct parts I need?

I put a straight edge on them...they definitely have a slight bow/warp to them

just 67.25 wiseco piston, fresh rebuild. stock header, dg muffler, super stock boyeson dual stage reeds. haven't jetted it yet, doing some other things before I fire it up again. I Did the Tors delete today with the aftermarket cable and throttle bolt on side of carb.

That's what I did was used RTV. both the metal part on the baseplate of boot and reed box looked slightly bowed/warped. If this doesn't work i'll buy new reed box/boot. Is there any aftermarket replacement that is suitable for the build I have?

alright guys, I got some rubber expansion plugs, plugged the intake and exhaust. Then took my hose from my compression tester and took the valve out of it and put it around 7-8 psi on compressor. it's leaking out of the reed box where the boot meets reed box, looks like both of them are warped...

it's lubricating grease...it was there when I opened it up.

so I decided to look at the carb/slide location because I hadn't thus far which I'm kicking myself in the head for. this is what I found with no pressure on the throttle lever, the slide is a 1/4 the way open. The two levers in the tors box need adjusted severely. there was absolutely no slack...