Recent content by NJblaster94

its not the ball bearing... its the washer behind the clutch basket.. theres a small washer that goes on first then the larger spacer then the clutch basket.

I figured it out guys.... When putting the clutch basket on I forgot the spacer that goes on after the washer behind the clutch basket

Betray 80w... but I slightly overfilled it... could that do anything like this?

Engaging... when I pull it in and put it in first it jumps... but I did adjust the lever a little but it still won't find neutral from a dead stop... and I can feel a slight pull when I click down into first with the clutch pulled in

I just rebuild my bottom end an reused the clutch plates.... I have the pushrod and ball bearing in and its adjusted correctly... when I pull the clutch in completely i can feel it isn't fully engaged.. and its hard to find neutral.. The basket was slightly grooved and plates were a little...

i JUST rebuilt my blaster with the vitos forged super stock (which is manufactured by weisco.. for all you out there who bash vitos) my atv also has fmf fatty/powercore2, vforce3 reeds, 4 degrees advance timing, jetted carb..... all i ca say is its the perfect trail machine.... i have power...

Thanks guys.... there are no signs of wear on the flywheel so im gonna break out the rulers and files and get to work on this... and just by chance have either of you done advance timing and if so how much of a difference was there?

so i pretty sure im gonna do the diy advance timing this weekend, my only concerns are the possiblities that i shear the timing key on the crank not getting the flywheel tight enough... and has anyone who has done had any problems with the stator plate moving or not being able to tighten it down...

yeah central jersey

yes i can also confirm that their is no need to split the cases to replace the seal..... however your going to have to disassemble almost all the motor from the outside if you want to relace right down to the crank seals.

These builds are great quilaity... but i've done almost everything he says not to do i.e. impact wrech, hammers... and knock on wood i've gotten just as much life out of my rebuilds

when i ride the quad this weekend ill do plug chop and post the pic... but i did my heat cycles last weekend and ran a couple tanks of gas through it its doesnt bog at all, and has a wicked powerband.

i checked for air leaks with the fresh rebuild, there are none and the quad runs great with the 370 main.

1) FMF fatty pipe, with power core 2 silencer 2) K&N air filter 3) no airbox lid 4) central NJ, no idea on elevation 5) stock pilot jets 6) 370 main jet 7) stock 66mm bore 8) no porting(but vitos forged superstock piston) 9) stock carb 10) What size is your carb?

hey just leetting everyone know that i tore into the carb that was already jetted for the quad when i got it and it had a 370 main and ran perfect , so i might move up to a 400 if its to lean.