Yamaha Blaster 1999
- Thread starter Remington
- Start date
Yes. I've learned A LOT on my own by taking it a part. Been told many times, "if you took it apart, you should be able to put it together, if you got any extra parts, you did something wrong" so far no extra parts so I'm doing something right. Should I still have my bike looked at after break down and rebuild by a professional?
I am more than willing to step up to the plate and help, but all my efforts to date (as well countless others) have been like flogging a dead horse.
You at 14 are more than capable of rebuilding the engine Remington, but you have to listen and heed the advice of those that that are trying to assist.
There are countless snippets of information that your attention has been drawn to, have a read of the ones dedicated to engine building.
If after research you think that the job is too big for you ( with our help), I advise you to get a builder to do it.
If you follow the path of the builder, it does not stop there, it starts firstly with a leak test, it must be done immediately after installing a new engine.
Les us know of your decision so we can put this matter to rest!
You at 14 are more than capable of rebuilding the engine Remington, but you have to listen and heed the advice of those that that are trying to assist.
There are countless snippets of information that your attention has been drawn to, have a read of the ones dedicated to engine building.
If after research you think that the job is too big for you ( with our help), I advise you to get a builder to do it.
If you follow the path of the builder, it does not stop there, it starts firstly with a leak test, it must be done immediately after installing a new engine.
Les us know of your decision so we can put this matter to rest!
That's where the fun begins.... Lol
The rebuild process is a beast that gets the best of us! I once had to put cases together and rip them apart twenty times before I realized my crank bearings weren't seating properly. On another rebuild, I kept shearing flywheel keys and my blaster ran in reverse only! On that same rebuild, it was only a week before I had to rebuild again because of an air leak!
When we say leak test, we mean it!
Trust me, the fun is just beginning!!!
The rebuild process is a beast that gets the best of us! I once had to put cases together and rip them apart twenty times before I realized my crank bearings weren't seating properly. On another rebuild, I kept shearing flywheel keys and my blaster ran in reverse only! On that same rebuild, it was only a week before I had to rebuild again because of an air leak!
When we say leak test, we mean it!
Trust me, the fun is just beginning!!!
That is what I like to read, hang in there we will get you through it step by step.
As DeJay says it is not going to be easy the first time you attempt it, but listen to advice, act on it and we will have you up and running soon.
As soon as you get the cylinder, post up close up pics of the internal ports
It won't need to be seen by a professional. You'll be the professional by the end of all of this 
Just listen to advice...and apply it.
Just listen to advice...and apply it.
the middle of it where the bearing spins is probably got a groove in it,find something that will fit inside or on outer endge of wrist pin then hammer it out,trying to hold connecting rod from being abused.
you can try using a socket and extension and hammer,when i did it i used a tapered small to large shaft alignment tool and hammer trying not to abuse connecting rod...unless you got a puller or press of some type
Yes sir but I guess if you take a 6 inch long bolt put a washer on and put a socket on after the washer and slide the bolt through the pin and put a nut on on the other side and pull it but I'm open minded. Why not break a piston that's already broke? Lol
You have a C-clamp? Find a deep well socket that is the same O.D. as the wristpin, on the other side of the piston put a larger O.D. deepwell socket.
It will be a balancing act getting it to hold, but you should be able to push the smaller socket and wristpin out the other side into the bigger deepwell.
I've done this before, Its crude, but better than hammering against your crank and creating side to side play.
Hit the wirst pin with some penetrating oil too. You have to split and clean the cases, so it will not hurt anything.
It will be a balancing act getting it to hold, but you should be able to push the smaller socket and wristpin out the other side into the bigger deepwell.
I've done this before, Its crude, but better than hammering against your crank and creating side to side play.
Hit the wirst pin with some penetrating oil too. You have to split and clean the cases, so it will not hurt anything.
Similar threads
