Troubleshooting/Maintenance Guide

[Awk08]

Troubleshooting/maintainence guide

Most of the terms used in this guide are searchable and already have a "diy" thread on them, I just bundled up what I do in times of need so here's the rundown on how I troubleshoot a poorly running blaster, in no particular order, some symptoms point directly to one thing or another....

First off, check for fuel flow, spark and airflow in and out, intake and exhaust
make sure it has good/new fuel, mixed at 32:1 with a good aftermarket 2 stroke oil, or 2 stroke oil for injection in the tank if still using the stock oil injection
make sure it has good fuel flowing to the carb (petcock is flowing good),

Change the spark plug with a new ngk b8es, kick it a few times with the new plug in the boot, grounded to the head to check for good, strong spark, while your down there inspect the plug wire and boot,

Be sure the air filter is clean (clean and re-oil it weekly or more if needed in dusty conditions)

Check the pipe and silencer for clogs (mice nests seem to be common) especially if it sat for a long period

Tors and parking brake circuts are better off disconnected rather than diagnosed, just my opinion

Tors delete's...........

88-02:
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/

03+:
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/2003-2006-tors-delete-proper-wiring-heres-what-i-did-48477/

03+ only parking brake circut delete:
just unplug it from the brake perch, follow it back under the hood and unplug there, cut and tape wires seperately, or coil the whole thing up under the hood


the downloadable blaster manual
(what, you dont have it yet???)
has tons of more detailed info on troubleshooting stock parts, and electrical troubleshooting also, available here.................


http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/



1. do a compression check, a compression tester is like $15 at harbor freight, prolly the same on ebay, and is a very wise investment, i check mine weekly to spot troubles ahead of time, my modded motor is holding true at 152 psi for months now, a stock blaster should be around 120psi, and anything getting close or below 100psi, will need some attention very soon, and could be the cause of a lot of symptons, especially hard starting and lack of power

2. do a leakdown test,
heres a "diy" to build your own and it will spot airleaks before it leans out and fries your stuff.....
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/

or I have them for sale here....
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leakdown-testers.55015/


it should hold 7 psi(no more) for like 10 minutes
also check the carb cap is tight and sealed < rubber cable seal also

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-parts-151/leak-down-tester-43284/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/videos-how-perform-air-leakdown-test-31464/

3. clean, clean, clean, the carb, inside and out, completely disassemble, spray all jets and orifices with carb cleaner, then blow out with a compressor, check the float level (stock carb is 20 - 21.5mm), google your specific carbs float level if different than stock
check the float valve's rubber tip for tears or general discombobulation, haha
write down both jet sizes and needle clip position while your in there
make sure the oil injection inlet is blocked off properly if the injection is deleted

http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/easy-almost-free-way-stop-leaky-carbs-33335/

4. check the reeds for cracks or chips, and if they are laying flat against the cage, also check the intake for tightness, good gaskets(replace if needed) and/or cracks of the boot,
a leakdown test should be performed, again, after any intake removal

5. check all electrical connections for cleanliness and contact, clean or tighten if needed, particularly the grounds(black wires) at the coil and voltage regulator, the orange wire on the coil, all of the ones under the hood, and stator connections right above the shifter.

6. get some new plugs, read and learn how to do "plug chops" and how to read the color of it

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

rejet if needed,
jetting info.......

floats..........
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/float-heights-how-adjust-them-50565/

pilot/airscrew jetting..........
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet-51060/

plug chops.........
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/jetting-plug-chop-guide-46141/

keihin carbs.......
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/jetting-pe-pj-pwm-pwk-14934/

general jetting.......
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/jetting-101-everything-explained-1625/

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/understanding-jetting-adjustments-36599/

 

[brandoz28]

great info awk, bookmarking it now so that i have a good link to refer people to


+rep for you

 

[lilblasty]

Great job awk will for sure help out slot of folks. Will give u rep once I'm home

 

[royalt67]

A very nice start on basic troubleshooting. I would like to add that newer Blaster owners really need the 01-02 and 03-06 Manual Supplements as well. I have them and would be glad to send to any who PM me their email address.

I tried to post them once but they are too big, I guess.

 

[austin]

nice write up,

rep points are coming

 

[SU420]

some rep for u very useful

 

[hotrodaj_2]

Thanks for taking the time to do this. This will make it easier to help people. You da man!

 

[slickerthanyou]

I'd add if your running Vforce2 setup- Check the inner cage (part with the petals on it) make sure it's tight- No movement!
Man did that one have me pullin my hair out!!

Good post Bro! greenage!

 

[redd_dragon]

great info. gave you a +1

 

[Blaster200boy]

I'd like to add something as well. Make sure after you clean your air filter, oil it will air filter oil!

Nice thread!!

 

[xJust_Causex]

nice write up, I would give you rep but my lappy is not letting me

 

[JBRoc01blaster]

Good checklist ... Should definately help people stay out on the trials with handle bars in hand rather then in a garage with tools in hand ! lol

 

[gearhead]

i have a 2000 blaster. i am getting weak spark and no fuel through the carb and in the proccess of cleaning the carb. is there a way to test the coil. an what spark plug should i be using and what gap and any suggestions on what to try

 

[Blaaster]

B8ES with a gap of 0.7 - 0.8 mm

Coil testing in section 7

http://www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf

Carb cleaning.

I did a short how-to on cleaning your carb. I hope this helps people that are uncomfortable with doing it themselves. It is really very simple. Once you do it you wont ever forget how. This stock carb is off of a 2002 blaster, but all of them are the same. I am going to assume that you know how to remove to carb from the quad. It is simply 2 screws, the fuel line, and unscrewing the top of the carb that which should be fairly obvious and simple.

I would like to say in advance that I am not responsible for anything that you mess up. Some people may have there own opinions on how to clean there carb but this is how I do mine. If you would like to add in more tips feel free.

Here are the tools you will need
1. Carb cleaner
2. Clean rag
3. Medium sized philips and standard screwdrivers
4. Small or medium sized adjustable wrench

1.First Get your tools together.

2.Remove the pilot jet (idle jet) and spray with carb cleaner. (remember how many turns it is out from being all the way in if you dont know how to adjust it.)

3.Heres what it looks like, There is a small spring that sits on the end of it. Dont lose it and make sure to reinstall it.

4.Remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the carb that hold on the float bowl (be careful these have been known to strip very easily)

5.This is what you should see. The brass nut in the center is your main jet. (usually this will get gummed up or clogged, spray this whole area with carb cleaner but try to avoid the gasket)

6.Remove the main jet and plastic shroud and spray them (the jets are usually brass so be careful)

7.Here is the main jet (has a number stamped on it which is the main jet size. The bigger the number the bigger the hole to allow more fuel flow)

8.Here is the inside of the top of the carb. Make sure you spray out the inside of the needle jet real good as well as were the carb slide rubs.

9.Here is the slide, the notch in the slide needs to line up with the pin in the picture above for proper installation.

10.Spray out the overflow tube with carb cleaner

 

[Blaaster]

And some more ..............

11. Dont forget this one too.

12. For cleaning your choke pull this little rubber peice back

13.Use your adjustable wrench to unscrew the nut holding the choke in

14. Pull out the choke and spray it with carb cleaner

Heres my HUGE 24" wrench. It was cheaper at harbor freight than buying axle wrenches from rmatv.
Thats my blaster axle laying next to it. (just a random extra)

Follow the instructions backwords for reinstalling your carb. Be careful of the needle, they have been known to bend. Hope this helps. Any questions feel free to ask.

 

[kolbygrimes13]

I have a 2001 blaster bored 40 over just broke in when i bought it. Its gettin fuel and fire but will not kick start but will occasionally push start. Y is this? Its getting enough compression to force ur thumb up when u try to forece ur thumb down during kick start.. plz plz plz help mr cdi and coil are good.

 

[tj31398]

I have a 2004 yamaha blaster. it doesnt want to start at all. its getting air, gas, and spark. it also has enough compression to stand on it with two feet. its not even trying to start even with starter fluid. im stumped. PLEASE HELP X(

 

[Awk08]

I have a 2004 yamaha blaster. it doesnt want to start at all. its getting air, gas, and spark. it also has enough compression to stand on it with two feet. its not even trying to start even with starter fluid. im stumped. PLEASE HELP X(

sounds like a reed petal is broke, pull the carb, intake and reed cage to check them.
all 4 should be intact and closing completely.
you can also pull the carb and peek in thru the intake with a flashlight