totally lost

Red Viking

New Member
Apr 12, 2015
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I got done jetting my carb. And I go to put it back together and when I top piece back on the carb and go to the throttle there is no resistance, but when I take to top off the carb three resistance is the. Took the covers off and see that it works, but when I put the top back on the carb, same problem, don't understand please help.
 
TORS or not on carb? Slide dropping down into throat all the way? Cable bottomed out in carb top?
Pull cleaner boot off so you can see or feel slide action.
 
I'm betting that you didn't line up the slot in the slide with the pin in the carb body, so the slide isn't going all the way down. As Lary mentioned, look into the carb.
 
I'm betting that you didn't line up the slot in the slide with the pin in the carb body, so the slide isn't going all the way down. As Lary mentioned, look into the carb.
If you change the main jet do you have to change you pin?
 
The pin is built into the carb. Look down inside and you will see the "bump" that's what line up with the slot cut out in the slide. If there not lined up the slide won't close all the way creating the slack you speak of.
 
The pin is built into the carb. Look down inside and you will see the "bump" that's what line up with the slot cut out in the slide. If there not lined up the slide won't close all the way creating the slack you speak of.
I will try that tomorrow, thanks for the help.
 
I will try that tomorrow, thanks for the help.
So got the blaster running she is a beast, the only problem is I can't get it to idle with out shutting down even when it's running if I pull the clutch in a have to keep revving it or she will die on my.
 
Idle speed adjustment as per Service manual!

Warm engine to operating temperature.

image.jpg
 
No is it something that I can do and will it help in the long run, or just cause problems?

I personally think it eliminates a bunch of headaches. You have a simple brass idle adjusting screw instead of the clumsy tors brick on top of the carb.

If your handy and not afraid to work on it, its a good investment for you.
 
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∆∆∆∆∆ Just like dirty said..... Also the reason I asked is (and keep this in mind if you do it) some of the brass idle screws are shorter than others. If/ when you decide to do this mod, thread the brass idle screw into the hole you just tapped and be sure that it threads in far enough to actually lift the slide. If not,,,, than you need to file more of the boss off so the idle screw can thread in further...... It may not make sense now but if you do the mod you will understand.

http://s27.photobucket.com/user/savage_420/media/013-3.jpg.html

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b197/DjGuestOne/Quad Pix/BansheeCarb001.jpg
 
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You have the throttle cable connects to lever that connects to another cable that connects to slide. Had main cable rust away right at end, had to thread cable through housing back to throttle and use vice grips to pull cable for 10 mile ride to truck :mad:
 
I just bet your left arm was sore when you sighted the truck.
So was on YouTube and I cut the three wires from the black box under the hood that goes to the TORS and now the blaster will not start. Do I have to remove all the wires from the TORS system or is it something else?