Stumped on my blaster, got ideas?

The block on top of the carb is part of the TORS system. It's a system designed to cut out spark if the throttle sticks open. The parts to the system are, the large unit on top of the carb, a position switch in the thumb throttle unit and a small electronic box under the hood. Most people delete the system .

how do we delete it because that does NOT work!!! we got her started!! reved insanely high so killed it before it screwed something up. tried to figure out the issue, started her again and it seemed like it might work then all the sudden rev thru the roof and the damn kill switch wouldn't work. definitely need to get rid of the tors system....and figure out why the kill switch didn't work.... but we are one step closer! we know she runs at least lol. gunna get a new wire harness and ignition coil from ebay to save money, and what can we do to delete the tors that doesn't work? thanks guys, yall have help a ton so far!! :) I:I
 
If it is revving to the moon the slide in the carb may not have dropped down in the carb body. There is a groove in the slide that needs to line up with the pin in the carb. also be sure the needle has dropped down into the jet at the bottom of the carb. I usually put the cap back on before I put the carb in the boots for the air box and reed cage. this way I am sure the slide is working.
 
Racing and hanging throttle screams an extremely lean mixture.

The kill switch may well be working but the motor is pre igniting from an extremely hot burn.

Did you make sure that the pilot jet was clean by running a fine bit of wire through it.

The air screw should be about 1 1/2 turns out.

I see no mention of you doing a leak test.

Do not start that motor again before you get the correct AFR, or you risk serious component damage.



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a tors unit will limit revving not cause it, either by working as it should...sensing a stuck open throttle/broken cable and limiting the ignition to only an idle state, or malfunctioning resulting in the same limited rev.

high revving is usually caused by only a few things....
very lean jetting, very low fuel level due to poorly adjusted float level, frayed throttle cable, throttle sticking up in the thumb throttle, incorrrectly installed carb slide < there's a little groove in the slide that must align with the little pin down in the carb body
or..
a massive airleak, usually at the intake/reed cage area or the cylinder base gasket
only a leakdown test will eliminate this as the culprit.
the engine MUST BE leakproof or your next question will be "what piston is best/who bores cylinders ?"

here's the leakdown tester info.....
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
or....
http://www.blasterforum.com/sale-18/leakdown-testers-55015/



edit.../\ we got a couple post ninja's in here today, :)
 
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it is revving to.the moon because you.broke the idle screw. Everybody has given you advice and ways to fix your issues.

Delete the tors using the links in this post, clean the carb, set float level, and update your posterity
 
it is revving to.the moon because you.broke the idle screw. Everybody has given you advice and ways to fix your issues.

Delete the tors using the links in this post, clean the carb, set float level, and update your posterity

the idle screw isnt broken. we had adjusted it it and even was able to take it for a test drive. then after starting it back up and driving in mid-shift it just revved sky high again. kill switch wouldnt kill it n i ripped out the wire to the ignition coil from its ground n it still was running then it like popped into gear and stalled. (from nuetral mind you) so it's getting parked until we get at least a new coil (we used the coil from the 01) and the tors eliminator kit. debating on a wiring harness as well but i think we are going to wait and see about it until we get those 2 parts.
on the other hand all the parts came for the 01 so just gotta throw it together n get it bored out.
 
Another problem commen with the TORS block is that the threads on the screw cap like to strip. The TORS unit on top of the carb has a bit of weight to it and will pull the carb slide up if it pops off.
 
Another problem commen with the TORS block is that the threads on the screw cap like to strip. The TORS unit on top of the carb has a bit of weight to it and will pull the carb slide up if it pops off.

sounds to me like the TORS is more trouble than it's worth lol. i like the normal carbs because we adjust the where they need to be and work good and then just let them go and they stay right. none of this automatic crap lol.
 
sounds to me like the TORS is more trouble than it's worth lol. i like the normal carbs because we adjust the where they need to be and work good and then just let them go and they stay right. none of this automatic crap lol.

There's no real need for it on most Blasters. It's just a device to help make it safer for beginning riders.
 
Check to see if you have a cable and/or wires binding when you turn the bars.

Also, piks of you on the bike (preferably in a bikini) will go a long ways to getting you the top notch techical expertise and beautiful young woman like yourself deserves.

If I may be of further assistance, please do not hesitate to contact the Godfather.
 
There's no real need for it on most Blasters. It's just a device to help make it safer for beginning riders.

No..it has nothing to do with beginning riders. Its a device to help defend lawsuits from people who lack the ability to do basic maintenence on their bikes. They don't clean their carbs, lube their cables etc, throttle sticks, they crash and burn then sue Yamaha because naturally the bike was defective.
 
No..it has nothing to do with beginning riders. Its a device to help defend lawsuits from people who lack the ability to do basic maintenence on their bikes. They don't clean their carbs, lube their cables etc, throttle sticks, they crash and burn then sue Yamaha because naturally the bike was defective.

But why is it that only Banshee and Blaster have it? :eek: