Stripped Oil Plug

jostith

New Member
Mar 17, 2010
216
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Bedford, IN
I am looking at an XR250R that has stripped oil plug threads. I talked to the guys at the honda shop and they said that it was tough to fix and usually didn't last, especially in that area because it was used a lot. So what do you guys think? Is it fixable. The guy is asking 750 now as well. So thoughts on price as well would be great. The actually screw is not stripped but he place in the case is. And that side of the case is not made anymore by honda, strangely the other half is. I don't really know why. Haha. So just any input would be great.

And I want a 4 stroke bike for road use, so no bashing guys. Need something to get to classes on the cheap.
 
if you could find a used bike in a junk yard or some place on ebay that sells the half you need id say go for it! or drill and tap the exsisting hole and maybe that would work? id offer 500. go for it
 
Heli Coil are supposed to be good. I haven't tried them myself but know of people that have and they say it's as good as new after
 
He said he would come down to 600 from his original 950. He also suggested this, "just needs self tapping oil drain bolt" does anyone know what that is? Or how to do it?
 
Id just heli coil it......

All youwill have to do is tap it for the heli coil insert heli coil and good to go.

I used a helicoil on a stripped out spark plug hole on a car I used to own and nver once had a problem.. If it sould hold a spark plug in on a V6 I see no reason it wouldnt work for a drail plug.....
 
Yeah a rubber expansion plug is the ticket I have one in my tool box just in case just make sure the surface is super clean insert the plug expand it let it relax then give it a extra 1/4 turn then high temp rtv around the rim and let it dry/cure for 24 hours then add oil should never seep
 
Yeah a rubber expansion plug is the ticket I have one in my tool box just in case just make sure the surface is super clean insert the plug expand it let it relax then give it a extra 1/4 turn then high temp rtv around the rim and let it dry/cure for 24 hours then add oil should never seep

Seems like a lot of work to do all that ever time you cahnge the oil...

I change my gearbox oil after every ride. That would drive me nuts LOL
 
Alright, I think I will do the expansion plug or talk to the auto parts store. There are these plugs they make for this exact situation. It's in a Popular Mechanics mag. This only a temp fix, until I find a crank case side. They are good for two oil changes or so. Here's a link, scroll down they are there near the bottom. Changing Your Oil And Filter - Popularmechanics.com

Now my next question is how tough is to replace that side? While it be a real biotch like removing the crankshaft and cylinder and all that crap or just like removing a blaster clutch?
 
Alright, I think I will do the expansion plug or talk to the auto parts store. There are these plugs they make for this exact situation. It's in a Popular Mechanics mag. This only a temp fix, until I find a crank case side. They are good for two oil changes or so. Here's a link, scroll down they are there near the bottom. Changing Your Oil And Filter - Popularmechanics.com

Now my next question is how tough is to replace that side? While it be a real biotch like removing the crankshaft and cylinder and all that crap or just like removing a blaster clutch?

If you use a helicoil you wont need new cases it will work fine just like the stock grain plug....
 
On something like this I will not be doing it myself. Regardless if it doesn't not work then I can buy the new crank case side. I have already found my year on ebay and found several others as well that might be my year. The most expensive is only 50 plus 16 shipping. So not bad. But I may try and find a shop that will install one around town. I'm afraid of stripping it out myself. This is a bike that I plan to put on the road.

So is the thought that I should pay 600 for the bike? It is in good mechanical shape, they stripped it out today when the 16 year old son tried to change the oil alone. But it is pretty much immactulate other than that. There is a vid of it running, here I'll pot it. The clicking I think is in the background but any thoughts would be great guys on this. I'm worried about it. Got 1100 from my blaster so this wouldn't break the bank but I don't wanna waste the money either.

XR250R $900 ad on craigslist
vid of the bike running/he is wearing a helmet
 
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On something like this I will not be doing it myself. Regardless if it doesn't not work then I can buy the new crank case side. I have already found my year on ebay and found several others as well that might be my year. The most expensive is only 50 plus 16 shipping. So not bad. But I may try and find a shop that will install one around town. I'm afraid of stripping it out myself. This is a bike that I plan to put on the road.

So is the thought that I should pay 600 for the bike? It is in good mechanical shape, they stripped it out today when the 16 year old son tried to change the oil alone. But it is pretty much immactulate other than that. There is a vid of it running, here I'll pot it. The clicking I think is in the background but any thoughts would be great guys on this. I'm worried about it. Got 1100 from my blaster so this wouldn't break the bank but I don't wanna waste the money either.

XR250R $900 ad on craigslist
YouTube - xr250 for sale! vid of the bike running/he is wearing a helmet

The helicoil is simple you just use the tap that comes in the kit and tap out the drain plug hole. Remove tap and then install the threaded helicoil. You have to also be carefull buying cases some of them are matched and only work with matching pairs..
 
Alright, is that kit at Autozone? I don't mind paying a little more to get it a little faster. I want to see it going and ride it around with my nephew.

Also a tap, is that literally a thing that just taps in and makes it all flat and than a new set of steel threads, threads inside the now flat hole? And also, will it be the same size as the stock drain plug or can I make sure it is? Does it come with a new screw? Are these all questions that I should ask at Autozone? Before I go and see the bike?
 
You should be able to get a kit that will fit the ols drain plug bolt. The tap is a tap and die. You will have to line it up with the drain hole and start to twist the tap and ti will make a set of threads in the drain hole for the helicoil to screw into. A helicoil is a thread insert threaded on bothe sides. You wont have to worry about any of the metal from the new threads being cut cause the tap for the helicoil is designed so the cutting fall down the die..

Here is a vid on how to do it...
 
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So I have to take the damn thing apart to do this. This video says to drill it out and that means that stuff will fall in. Then I have to punch the end of the new threads out and that will fall in. Looks like an expansion plug it is. I don't want to take it apart.
 
This is an easy enough fix. I'd do it with the bike lifted slightly so you can do it upside down. Just get the next size bigger plug and forget the helicoil. You may still have to drill the case out a little. Pack the flutes with grease on the bit and tap. That way the metal debris will get trapped in the grease. Drive it in and remove then install your new plug. I did this on a big dozer a couple years back. They ripped the drain valve out of a thick aluminum pan and it has worked fine ever since. Autozone has a wide assortment of plugs and copper or aluminum gaskets for them.I am not a fan of helicoil. I think it is adding a weak link.