still no spark!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hawaii

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May 27, 2009
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i replaced the cdi box and still no spark????? do u think the on off switch is bad?????(kill switch) plz help me i have power from the stator going into the cdi box. the red and black wire is giving power to the cdi box. the black and white wire is sending power out of the cdi box but..... no power comint out of my orange wire that runs straight to the magneto then the spark plug........ help me help me please!!!!!
 
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Its my understanding the on/off key switch and the off/run killswitch are the exact same thing, and they both do the same thing, but are dependant on each other.

If you remove them from the circuit, and leave the circuit open, your blaster should start. The manual says, if you test continuity between the wires, and you get continuity it would be set to OFF. It says ON, and RUN should show NO continuity.

So, just use a DMM and test them. If theyre set to RUN and ON, neither one should measure continuity (your DMM would just read a 1 on the far left)
 
Its my understanding the on/off key switch and the off/run killswitch are the exact same thing, and they both do the same thing, but are dependant on each other.

If you remove them from the circuit, and leave the circuit open, your blaster should start. The manual says, if you test continuity between the wires, and you get continuity it would be set to OFF. It says ON, and RUN should show NO continuity.

So, just use a DMM and test them. If theyre set to RUN and ON, neither one should measure continuity (your DMM would just read a 1 on the far left)

how do i bypas the run/ off switch please tell me!
 
Its my understanding of the switches, if the switch is set to ON, it creates an open in the circuit. If its set to OFF it completes the circuit. Completing the circuit grounds the ignition path out so it never makes it to the end, which makes the engine not run.

So, you can do this 2 ways. You can use a digital multimeter or a continuity tester and with the switch set to OFF, you SHOULD have a complete circuit. If you flip the switch to ON, it should kill the circuit and your reader should read an open, or your light should go out.

So, thats how Id test it. The manual says the same thing about both switches. OFF completes a circuit, ON registers an incomplete circuit.

The way I understand it works is the ignition system is set to short itself out through the switches. And they dont work unless theyre both open (set to ON, and RUN respectively). The circuit goes from the CDI box, up through the Off/On key switch, then also has to make it past the Run/Off switch on to the control box. If EITHER of the 2 switches are set to off, the circuit closes, and it grounds itself off, and the control box never gets a signal.

So, unless Im reading this troubleshooting wrong in the Clymer manual, disconnecting the wiring from both switches should do the trick.

blasterdiagram02.jpg


blasterdiagram01.jpg
 
Its my understanding of the switches, if the switch is set to ON, it creates an open in the circuit. If its set to OFF it completes the circuit. Completing the circuit grounds the ignition path out so it never makes it to the end, which makes the engine not run.

So, you can do this 2 ways. You can use a digital multimeter or a continuity tester and with the switch set to OFF, you SHOULD have a complete circuit. If you flip the switch to ON, it should kill the circuit and your reader should read an open, or your light should go out.

So, thats how Id test it. The manual says the same thing about both switches. OFF completes a circuit, ON registers an incomplete circuit.

The way I understand it works is the ignition system is set to short itself out through the switches. And they dont work unless theyre both open (set to ON, and RUN respectively). The circuit goes from the CDI box, up through the Off/On key switch, then also has to make it past the Run/Off switch on to the control box. If EITHER of the 2 switches are set to off, the circuit closes, and it grounds itself off, and the control box never gets a signal.

So, unless Im reading this troubleshooting wrong in the Clymer manual, disconnecting the wiring from both switches should do the trick.

blasterdiagram02.jpg


blasterdiagram01.jpg
You are correct. Disconnect them and that will bypass them.
 
Unplug the TORS. Unplug it from the box under the hood, the connection that goes to throttle and from the carb. Theres a DIY around here somewhere but that could be the cause of no spark.
 
also unplug the black wire at the cdi box thats the wire that goes to your on/off switches so when its unplugged it should start and when you ground it it wont start other then that check the stator i had a problem where the stator just wasnt puting out enough power to create a spark and get rid of the TORS if you havent already this is my harness after removing the TORS
5012-wire-harness.jpg
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i had a simular problem.i had power comin out of the stator but it wasnt enuff,i ended up hacking all the wires and ended up with the 2 for the cdi and later learned the wires were broken where it comes out of the stator.i fixed it where it was broken and it worked,i now only have a kill switch