So here is the dilemma, I recently seized my blaster in glamis due to the intake boot slipping off causing a lean condition and probably investing a bit of sand. This is not my main quad but still needs to be fixed sometime soon. After getting back to camp I was able to break it loose and got it started with a fresh plug. Has very low compression so will be getting a rebuild soon. But here is where I need advice, I am not sure if I should get the forged Sober Stock piston from Vito's made by Wiseco or just get standard Wiseco. Currently I have an FMF fatty, twin air filter, no air box lid, 4 degree timing advance, appropriate jetting, and boyesen pro series reeds. The reason that the super stock is so appealing is due to that is porting is not an option for any time soon and ends up being a little cheaper due to including all of the gaskets. The reason I won't just pull the trigger is because it seems to get a bad rap. But the people the talk down on it seem to be people who don't have any personal experience with it themselves so some feedback from some actual experience with it would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Seized Engine, Super Stock Piston
- Thread starter ProfessorGriff
- Start date
engines get really hot in sand
even liquid cooled 2 stroke's
i used to hammer a cr125 in sand it got soooo hot it hurt
when factory 4 stroke, race in the sands at southwick motocross 338, my closest national event they,
run fans on the radiators only time factory do this 1 time a year lol
i would be concerned about the heat involved racing in sand
even liquid cooled 2 stroke's
i used to hammer a cr125 in sand it got soooo hot it hurt
when factory 4 stroke, race in the sands at southwick motocross 338, my closest national event they,
run fans on the radiators only time factory do this 1 time a year lol
i would be concerned about the heat involved racing in sand
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engines get really hot in sand
even liquid cooled 2 stroke's
i used to hammer a cr125 in sand it got soooo hot it hurt
when factory 4 stroke, race in the sands at southwick motocross 338, my closest national event they,
run fans on the radiators 1 time a year lol
i would be concerned about the heat involved racing in sand
Oops hit the wrong button... This quad is not a race bike, more so just a spare. I have a TRX 450r that my step mother rides once in a blue moon, so the blaster only ever ridden on that occasion or on the off occasion that the Honda breaks down. The other thing to factor in is that I only way 120lbs so I am a bit of a lightweight.
your putting extra strain on engine running in sand plus advancing the timing.
carb boot slipping off hmmm weird is it the stock clamps??
get better sand paddle tires...Porting the exhaust port 1mm is easy and more
reliable then the pied cutted piston cut at exhaust port...
just think the piston is coming up to the head of cylinder,it is the getting explode down by compression and fuel you are putting more strain on lower end by doing this not saying it is a total loss
but it wont last as long
SAND does not matter how much you way the engine is being revved high rpm's alot more then
a solid ground....
KINDA like full throttling your car stuck in the snow
either way your choice
carb boot slipping off hmmm weird is it the stock clamps??
get better sand paddle tires...Porting the exhaust port 1mm is easy and more
reliable then the pied cutted piston cut at exhaust port...
just think the piston is coming up to the head of cylinder,it is the getting explode down by compression and fuel you are putting more strain on lower end by doing this not saying it is a total loss
but it wont last as long
SAND does not matter how much you way the engine is being revved high rpm's alot more then
a solid ground....
KINDA like full throttling your car stuck in the snow
either way your choice
Ok, that works for me. I would lower the port 1 degree on the cylinder but I am not sure if I trust myself doing something like that. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't building a grenade.
try it cant be any worse then throwing top end parts at it lol
also it is raising the exhaust port 1mm.
search that....
allthough that the pied cutted piston is providing the 1mm raise in exhaust port "timing".
it is more strain on the piston rings in my opinion.....which is why people
give it bad review but please research that mmmkkk
also it is raising the exhaust port 1mm.
search that....
allthough that the pied cutted piston is providing the 1mm raise in exhaust port "timing".
it is more strain on the piston rings in my opinion.....which is why people
give it bad review but please research that mmmkkk
I wqs doing quite a bit of research on that piston for the past few weeks but have still been left inconclusive which is why I started this thread. I was not able to find much information on the blaster super stock piiston and when I could find it seemed to be from people who have no personal experience with it and we're bashing it. The very few actually had the piston loved it. I was able to find lots of feedback on the banshee super stock piston and everyone seemed to have positive results. I just wanted know what I was getting into if I bought this piston. And about the raising the exhaust port on the cylinder, I don't feel comfortable taking a dremel to my ports. I could see myself screwing up big time... Unless it is less complicated than I am thinking. On a side note, has any one ever tried lapping the gasket surface on the head rather than milling it?
I have pie cut pistons to test the effect of raising the exhaust port, before actually cutting an expensive cylinder. It worked fine, no bad effect on rings, gave the same effect as raising the exhaust port. What it interferes with is the squish effect and piston cooling on the exhaust side. The pie cut piston is a quick and dirty parts swap fix. A dome top piston and port raise is a better answer. Don't go crazy on the port raise. 1mm is plenty, 2mm is huge but you give up torque.
I have lapped (with sandpaper) cylinders and heads lots of time. Don't expect to take off more than 0.010" with this method. Sandpaper 80-220 grit taped to flat surface and move in figure 8 pattern. Try to not take more off one side than the other, or to rock and round the edges. Lapping is better for trueing up the surface than removing height. I have hand filed Blaster heads to test milling of the stock head (not a great idea) and to fine tune some custom heads I had made. I think I took over 0.020" off the stock Blaster head (read some of my early posts here) and I have filed over 0.120" off some cylinders and heads. Taking metal off the cylinder or head allows you to stack basegaskets under the cylinder to raise the ports, as well as raise compression. Finish the filing with a sandpaper lap.
I have lapped (with sandpaper) cylinders and heads lots of time. Don't expect to take off more than 0.010" with this method. Sandpaper 80-220 grit taped to flat surface and move in figure 8 pattern. Try to not take more off one side than the other, or to rock and round the edges. Lapping is better for trueing up the surface than removing height. I have hand filed Blaster heads to test milling of the stock head (not a great idea) and to fine tune some custom heads I had made. I think I took over 0.020" off the stock Blaster head (read some of my early posts here) and I have filed over 0.120" off some cylinders and heads. Taking metal off the cylinder or head allows you to stack basegaskets under the cylinder to raise the ports, as well as raise compression. Finish the filing with a sandpaper lap.
So what you are saying is that I can lower the exhaust port simply by using sandpaper? If so I would feel comfortable using this method to take off say, 1.5mm?
Curious how much thinner are the Vito's high comp. gaskets and since I cannot take much off using lapping would it be a good idea to possibly do both hopefully taking somewhere around .020 to .030 off?
Curious how much thinner are the Vito's high comp. gaskets and since I cannot take much off using lapping would it be a good idea to possibly do both hopefully taking somewhere around .020 to .030 off?
No, you will need a Dremel or drill and long shank cutter to cut the exhaust roof.
It would take about 10 minutes of vigourous work with coarse paper to lap 0.010" off the cylinder and head.
An easier method is to double or triple up the base gaskets, lap both the head and the cylinder perfectly flat and seal it with Teflon tape twisted into a thread instead of a gasket. This will raise the exhaust port, but you will need to check your squish with a piece of 0.060" (1.5mm) solder. Squish should be about 1mm or 0.040".
Don't waste time trying to plane the stock head down for higher compression.
You will be rewarded with detonation. I know, I tried it. Get a rechambered head.
It will allow much higher compression and much higher performance without detonation.
Here is an example of a rechambered head on the left, stock head on the right.
125MX head in the front.
Below, comparison, torroidal (torque) style head at left, Hemi (RPM power) style at right.
Steve
It would take about 10 minutes of vigourous work with coarse paper to lap 0.010" off the cylinder and head.
An easier method is to double or triple up the base gaskets, lap both the head and the cylinder perfectly flat and seal it with Teflon tape twisted into a thread instead of a gasket. This will raise the exhaust port, but you will need to check your squish with a piece of 0.060" (1.5mm) solder. Squish should be about 1mm or 0.040".
Don't waste time trying to plane the stock head down for higher compression.
You will be rewarded with detonation. I know, I tried it. Get a rechambered head.
It will allow much higher compression and much higher performance without detonation.
Here is an example of a rechambered head on the left, stock head on the right.
125MX head in the front.
Below, comparison, torroidal (torque) style head at left, Hemi (RPM power) style at right.
Steve
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