revs high by itself but wont take gas

i just had this prob with mine! i thought it was either an air leak the cable or tors, but it wasnt any of those. take the carb back off and push the needle jut out, the holes in mine were stopped up pretty bad causing the needle to stick, so clean that good then try again, if that doesnt work do a leak test and see if a seal is blown.
 
i put the 290 jet on its running good the high idle turned out to be really bad adjustment in the idle i'll just have to see when it gets cold if that did the trick
 
You may need to adjust the idle.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS big screw under seat on top of unit. No TORS brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
ok i took it out yesterday in single digit weather and it ran fine for about 5 minutes then it started doing the same thing it starts on first kick but still wont take gas.
 
I empathize with ya, been there... I suspect you have an airleak, definitely invest in a leakdown tester if you haven't already, you can make one yourself... at least you will know if you can rule that out, and its a worthwhile investment anyways.. as for the not taking gas... i agree that you probably have clogged passage still, or your float is getting stuck in the up position intermittently, and not allowing gas to flow to the bowl:-/ i would buy a carb rebuild kit and replace everything in it, you can find them on the net for around $20-30 26mm Performance Carb Kit - Mikuni VM26 - Rebuild Kit but thats me, you could just take everything out and clean really well, and blow it out with compressed air... also, in the cold, with a piped engine, i run a 310 main jet here in indiana... Good Luck :) Main point though, get a leaktester..
 
Ok I will look into the leak tester the thing I don't get is it runs great when its warm takes the gas and I would never suspect anything wrong with it until it gets really cold
 
Ye i hear ya, i know that's why the other guys were mentioning your jetting since it only happens when cold... reason i commented on this was when i first got my blaster, it was the summer, and it ran as good as i thought it should, and when winter came, i had already discovered this site and had started to try and plug chop... the plugs were coming out too lean even with increasing the jets, so I put together a leak tester and found they're was a leak at my reed valve... unfortunately, I had been riding with a leak for too long, and within a few weeks of discovering and attempting to fix it with the wrong kind of gasket material, it overheated and the rings smashed together, did some nice damage to the cylinder... so i got to rebuild the top endI:I anyways, my point is my blaster ran ok in normal temps(like yours), but if it dropped to below freezing, it would run sooooo lean there was no top end power, like it was starving for gas... at this point it can only be one of two things... your carb is the issue, or you have a lean condition caused by an airleak or improper jetting... don't be too bummed because at least you have it narrowed down to those things... plus you'll be stoked once you figure it out, don't give up! have you thought about a carb kit or are you pretty comfortable with how clean you got it... sometimes just spraying it out won't do the trick, gotta completely dissassemble it...

EDIT: Also, when you say it starts on the first kick, then won't take gas, do you mean it dies, or it just has no power? When you first start you engine and its cold, the seals are tighter, but once it warms up, any weak areas will open up and allow air in. Someone correct me if i'm wrong about any of this :)
 
It will die when I give it gas. I think I got the Carb pretty clean I'm not the greatest with Carb work so I hadn't thought about rebuilding it. If I got it jetted right would it be OK to ride in warm weather with the air leak?
 
if you find out you have a leak, gotta fix it, or the piston will fry no matter what temperature it is outside... does it still rev to the moon anymore, or has it stopped acting like it is sucking in air since you worked on the carb.. i know you said you adjusted the idle and that helped, so maybe you don't have a leak... I pulled these quotes from a sticky on jetting your carb, found on this page... maybe your engine is bogging because the float height is out of adjustment, I would double check that. if its set to low then not enough fuel will enter the bowl, and the engine will be starving for gas...

Float: The float controls fuel level in the float bowl at the bottom of the carburetor. It has no effect on jetting but can cause some symptoms that can be easily confused with a jetting problem. If the fuel level is too low for example, it can cause a bog similar to a lean condition.

Lean: A "lean" condition is what occurs when you have insufficient fuel in your mixture creating an over abundance of oxygen. Symptoms can be a rough running engine (bogging), a white or light gray spark plug and sometimes can result in overheating or even severe engine damage.

Bogging: Again, not a technical term but commonly used. Bogging can be a result of a lean setting where not enough fuel is entering the combustion chamber for the motor to run properly. In some instances this can cause the machine to "bog" as if it were actually running out of gas. Note: a lean condition is not the only possible source of this type of problem.
 
Do not dream of riding with any type of air leak, either intake, exhaust, crancase, seals or reed/boot.

They are all recipies for disaster!