i tried the used cdi box and still nothing. i clipped the tors wires by the throttle and disconnected it from the harness and removed the brain box
no spark
- Thread starter liminlime_2005
- Start date
well i think i have pretty much narrowed it down to being my cdi box. my engine builder says he can get me an oem style cdi box for like 72 shipped to me. i have priced some on ebay but much cheaper then he is offering it me for. even the aftermarket cdi boxes arnt that much. does anyone have some reviews on the hotshot cdi and or other cdi boxes? thanks
Ok, between the PM's we've been exchanging and what I've read on here, I tend to agree with the CDI being the problem.
Here's what we know: Even though the ignition coil under the seat tested out of spec, those readings don't matter if you're not getting 12 volts to the coil to begin with. Since the stator plate coils behind the flywheel tested good, they can be ruled out. I assume you've double- and triple- checked all the electrical connections between the stator plate and flywheel and found them to be good.
Since all the TORS equipment has been uhooked (brain box, throttle switch, and carb. cap switch), that can be ruled out as a cause of your problem.
You're NOT going to get enough volts from the source coil behind the flywheel when just kicking the engine over to light up the test light. The engine isn't spinning over fast enough. The CDI box, when working properly, steps up the voltage going into the igntion coil to 12 volts.
Assuming you still can't get 12 volts TO the ignition coil with the kill switches unhooked, it sounds like the CDI box is indeed bad. You did check the ground wire that bolts to the back of the ignition coil, correct? Its nice and clean and tight?
I don't think its worth the extra $$ for a Hotshot CDI box. Somebody (awk, I think?) has had trouble with them. Just get a good OEM replacement and run that one.
Here's what we know: Even though the ignition coil under the seat tested out of spec, those readings don't matter if you're not getting 12 volts to the coil to begin with. Since the stator plate coils behind the flywheel tested good, they can be ruled out. I assume you've double- and triple- checked all the electrical connections between the stator plate and flywheel and found them to be good.
Since all the TORS equipment has been uhooked (brain box, throttle switch, and carb. cap switch), that can be ruled out as a cause of your problem.
You're NOT going to get enough volts from the source coil behind the flywheel when just kicking the engine over to light up the test light. The engine isn't spinning over fast enough. The CDI box, when working properly, steps up the voltage going into the igntion coil to 12 volts.
Assuming you still can't get 12 volts TO the ignition coil with the kill switches unhooked, it sounds like the CDI box is indeed bad. You did check the ground wire that bolts to the back of the ignition coil, correct? Its nice and clean and tight?
I don't think its worth the extra $$ for a Hotshot CDI box. Somebody (awk, I think?) has had trouble with them. Just get a good OEM replacement and run that one.
i will just buy a cdi box, pretty much process of elimination and yes, double and triple checked everything. the test light did light up when just kicking the engine over and the spark plug was still in the head, checking source coil black red wire and yellow red wire but thts for the headlight. my builder said the reason the light didnt light for the white red wire (pickup coil) the engine had to be running. thanks for ur help man, i will post when i get my part and if solved my prob. hope this wil help others too
i replaced the cdi box and now im gettin current to the coil but still not gettin to the plug, prob going tomorrow to get a coil and see if that fixes the prob.
