I was actually thinking of having a battery small enough to stick in the "battery box" in the plastics so you don't end up with a huge car battery strapped to the seat with a bungee cord! You've been known to go ghetto sometimes but I'm trying to look out for ya buddy. I:I
Nitrous Oxide
- Thread starter wotis11
- Start date
I was actually thinking of having a battery small enough to stick in the "battery box" in the plastics so you don't end up with a huge car battery strapped to the seat with a bungee cord! You've been known to go ghetto sometimes but I'm trying to look out for ya buddy. I:I
it works fine trust me. Sicivic is just trying to reiinvent the wheel and there is no need to. For what its worth his setup will never tune properly and would be way more llikely to blow the motor up
u seen a pic of my old setup
same exact deal i run on my yfz 450 and both my waverunners
Actually, the only picture I saw of your old setup was of it sitting in your garage before it got parted out.... having never been started.
exacly a small motorcycle or pwc battery will work fine. The bat i ran was from a yamaha pw50 dirt bike, which is about half the size of a reg motorcycle battery.
no i ran the kit on my motor that had the flotech ported head with stock bottom end it was never on the oconnor motor
with a 10 hpwr jet it would wheelie thru 4th 5th and 6th gears
LMFAO !!!!!
show me one thing ghetto on either of my bikes ???,
hell, show me anything jewish cheap for that matter, except the advanced auto foglight on my sons bike
and i won't be using a stock airbox if i move forward with this, it will be on my spare frame put back to roller status, with a spare, throw away motor at first for testing.
so the battery will have to go where most modern batteries are located..
in the non existant oil tank location, unless i use that for an auxillary fuel/oil tank location for the secondary fuel adder ?
now that we've decided i won't be running any small milli amp/hr battery, and will use whatever style/type motorcycle battery it takes to run the fuel pumps on any streetbike.
lets move on past the inadequate battery thoughts .............
sweet !!!!!
i'll be calling you for more info, after payment and receiving the system !!!!!
Wow he said awks stuff is ghetto ahahahahaha hello pot..........
Awks stuff is some of the farthest from ghetoo ive seen on this site
Awks stuff is some of the farthest from ghetoo ive seen on this site
I was taking a cheap shot jab with the ghetto comment...
You put a moderately sized battery back where the oil tank goes you've got a decent shot at making the system work. You'll need a RS 75 watt output lighting coil and a DC conversion for power unless you want to be keeping up with charging all the time.
You'll need a handlebar mounted "arming" safety switch (one with a flip down cover would be preferrable) and then a momentary switch mounted inside the thumb throttle housing so that the thumb throttle hits it when you've pushed the throttle wide open. You'll need an appropriately pressured fuel pump. Volume is kind of unimportant as you'll be using WAY less flow than pretty much any fuel pump will be set up to handle. You may need a bypass and to setup a return line to the tank to keep the pump from dead heading depending on what style of pump you get too.
442, are those low pressure mixing nozzles or high pressure? That'll determine the pump needed.
The rest of the system will be plumbing the output from the tank into the nos solenoid, the output from the fuel pump to the fuel solenoid and then the output from both solenoids into the nozzle. You'll need to find a really good spot to mount that nozzle. Generally they thread into bungs in the intake manifold or throttle body but you want it down stream of the carburetor slide and the entire intake window is occupied by reed valve. You could split the output and spray half into each side transfer. Might be too sudden a jolt of cold coming up the transfers that way..... never know until you try.
nope, you know my thoughts on 300' straight line BS.
just doin this as an experiment, and because i can !
Si there is no difference a nozzle is a nozzle what makes a tune up high pressure or low pressure is the spread between the nitrous and the fuel jet for instance on my car if i run a 42 nitrous jetand a 38 fuel jet my flowing fuel pressure would be around 4.5 - 5 lbs of fuel pressure which is considered a low pressure tune up but if i make the jet spread 42 nos 32 fuel my flowing pressure goes to around 9 - 11 lbs which is a high pressure type tune up both have there advantages it just depends what your trying to accolpish
And from experience i have found that a spacer in between the reeds and carb mount will try to freeze the reed petals and make it do weird sh*t it work much better if u put the nozzle in the intake boot before the carb
I mispoke, the jets that are installed as the flow restriction on that system you pictured, are they designed/rated for 3-5 psi or higher? I said nozzles but meant the "jets".
I can't keep up with you now! You must be going through mid life crisis, some guys buy harleys AWK get NOS! I:I
Ok gotcha and yes the spread is for low pressure the pump with that kit is a nos brand fuel pump designed for motorcycle and atv nitrous systems
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