Ok so I thought I got a good deal on my blaster. It runs really good when warm, but I found a major problem. I bought a compression tester and leak down tester. I done compression test with throttle wide open and it only gets to 60psi, with throttle closed is the same (I was just wondering if it would make a difference.) The engine only has about 6 hours on rebuild and he said he followed KOR so I figured he did it right since Ken is the man. Anyway, I was going to make sure the head bolt torque and the nut was spinning on the bolt closest to the carb. I went to tighten it down and it just spun, I picked the head bolt out with my finger. The hole is stripped. I guess maybe he torqued too tight. I double nutted it and the bolt itself started getting thread for a few good turns once it got deaper but it will only torque to 15 but doesn't pull out (its stripping too I guess). Also the bolt right across from it is the same way, 15psi and just turns but wont pull out. How would I fix this? Tap it or helicoil? Can you tap the jug? I guess it runs so good cause its way too lean, sucking air. I haven't ridden it much so I hope it isn't damaged. Should I just pull the head and jug and get them worked/ported? How expensive is that. Thanks guys.
Newbie help please!
- Thread starter Jeff Bennett
- Start date
Pull the head and check it didn't warp from improper torque. Also check the jug isn't warped. Than if all is good, helicoil the stripped hole or use a threadsert. Get a new head and base gasket and put it back together.
Should I do a leak down test before I take it apart to sell what else may be leaking? I asked a machine shop about heli coil or studding it and the said they wouldn't mess with it because it was a 2 stroke. They do car engines, not motorcycle. I cant find anyone willing to fix the head studs. May have to try it myself.
I googled a time sert 8mx1.25 and found one for $70. Do you think a cycle shop would do it cheaper?
It is a good idea to leak test before pulling the engine apart, to confirm other leaks.
Have a shot at fitting the new oversized studs yourself, it is a comparatively easy job.
Have a shot at fitting the new oversized studs yourself, it is a comparatively easy job.
I'm with Pops on this one. Do a leakdown test now, To make sure you don't have any other nasty suprises. Installing the new Oversized studs sounds like a pretty fun job, Get all the parts, a few beers, and have a go at it.
If your really seriously considering porting your blaster, Call Ken, and see if he will do it all for you. He is a great guy to deal with, and will not steer you wrong. I'm not sure what the porting prices are, but its money well spent for the power gains you get. Wake that baby up with a head mod and an aggressive port....you'll have a good smooth power delivery, a great pull, and you'll never believe you rode a stock blaster!
Hope this helps you out. Happy Thanksgiving!
Fred
If your really seriously considering porting your blaster, Call Ken, and see if he will do it all for you. He is a great guy to deal with, and will not steer you wrong. I'm not sure what the porting prices are, but its money well spent for the power gains you get. Wake that baby up with a head mod and an aggressive port....you'll have a good smooth power delivery, a great pull, and you'll never believe you rode a stock blaster!
Hope this helps you out. Happy Thanksgiving!
Fred
So, on the oversized studs like the cr500, did the just tap it and put in the bigger stud? Would that be better than a time sert?
So, I double nutted them and got the two to go farther in the hole and they actually are holding good but the nut wont tighten. The stud is not turning but the nut will. I guess he used cheap nuts and they are stretching. Can I get the nuts I need from a hardware store, I'm assuming I could.The head bolts went down a lot farther but still plenty to get the head on and have threads.
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