Newb 94 blaster resurrection

[tbrooks]

So I'm new to atvs and working on them but I have faith in myself. I know 31 and never been around atvs or motorcycles, I'm deprived, but I got one for my daughter and this is for me to ride with her. I paid nothing for it and spent about 1000 on parts before I found this place and figured out what I should be doin. So today I ran leakdown test and compression test at the advice of 89blaster89 and Blaaster (thanks a lot guys), and found out all is good with the motor I:I I don't have a lot of money or time to throw into this thing but I wanna do it right and might as well make it look good right! I won' t be doing anything special or aftermarket parts but I'm hoping to build something I can be proud. Going to buy paint some time this week, here's what it looks like at the moment.

 

[Wheels]

Welcome to the forum, it looks like you have a fun project on your hands.

 

[tbrooks]

Anybody have recommendations for frame paint? I'm just gonna be rattle canning the whole thing. I was thinking I would get the rust converter stuff just incase I don't get all of it perfectly clean. Like I said no money but I still wanna do it the best I can. Figured I should clear coat it too.

 

[Blaaster]

No recommendations on paint.

Rub down well ,missing nothing, rub back well between each coat to promote adhesion.

Remember, the more coats, the greater chance of chipping.

Clear coat not needed on rattle can paint, unless it is a flat.

 

[Awk08]

Welcome to BF.!
nothing like a rebuild to get to know these machines.
I've used the duplicolor spray cans from any auto store before with OK results.
as stated above ....less = more.
1-2 coats of each...primer, color, clear
For less chance of chipping.

Keep them pics coming as your build progresses!

 

[tbrooks]

OK so I have a few questions. I know I gotta sand this thing down real good, do I have to strip all the paint to do it right? most of what I've read on here tells me I should and I guess that goes back to less paint is better. I know the basics of painting as I've done some on my work trucks, but is there anything a newb wouldn't know. I know better than to paint anything where grease will be and I'm planning on taping off the zerts. I think I'm just gonna put 3 coats of black rustoleum rust reformer as a primer and paint, and then 2 coats of clear. Next question I took my a-arms off and the handlebars, should I take out the steering shaft n tie-rods, I figured I could just paint em in place. Lastly I took my front hubs apart to check the grease and see how things look and I'm wondering if there's supposed to b any type of seal between the two halves.

 

[tbrooks]

Well I got some aircraft stripper. Waiting to have a day to spend with it getting things stripped and primed up. In the meantime I took the jug off and gonna get it to town n see if I can find somebody to check it. Idk if its stock in there or not. As far as I can tell with a ruler its 66mm lol. The connecting rod says Hot Rod on one side and ck 144 on the other?? I've gotta get the crankcase halves apart to fix a oil leak on the backside. What kinda gasket stuff should I use on it? The book says Yamaha bond or something but I got a few tubes of stuff from my vehicles at the shop.

 

[STRATTON]

Don't use aircraft remover. Get a few big scuff pads. Simple green and preps all. Scuff down the fame. You just want to put a good cross hatch in the paint to aid in adhesion. Spray it down with water. Wash it down with simple green then rinse with water. Let it dry. Whipe it down with preps all. Let it dry. 2 coats of filler primer. 2 coats of color. One heavy coat of clear.

I've painted many engine bays, inside cars, car parts, rims, etc etc.

This method will serve you well.

Stratton.

 

[twostrokefolks]

awesome looking forward to the end

 

[tbrooks]

Thanks Stratton, that's kinda what I was thinkin, but everything I been reading on here says to strip it down. I just want it to hold up for as long as it can, I don't plan on doing this again.

 

[tbrooks]

Got another question. I'm about to split the crankcase halves to fix my oil leak. Is there anything that I should replace while I'm in there or any cheap mods ya'll would recommend. My cylinder was still good but i'm gonna get it honed, guessing I should go ahead n get new rings, but Idk after that. I got a book so I'll be checking all the specs as I go

 

[KTM RACING 559]

You'll definately need New oil seals,gaskets, 2 lockwashers , one on both the clutch basket and counterbalancer,and 2 snaprings for the idler gear. And I would definatly take the time to inspect the clutch all the transmission bearings and both main crankshaft bearings. As far a mods go theres a thread on here that shows you how to modify the shift star for smoother shfting, and i think ken o conners got a youtube vid on how to drill small holes in the clutch basket for better lubrication on the clutch disks.

 

[tbrooks]

Thanks ktm is there by chance a kit that has those parts. I've seen the gasket kits but not with seals locknuts and snaprings unless they where the whole bottom end kit wit a crank.

 

[KTM RACING 559]

Unfortunatly they don't make a kit, tusk makes a good oil seal kit. but here's the link to a repair manual that i think shows an exploded view of the crankcase and all the components
http://www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf

As well as some parts scematics of the washers and snap rings you need.

2001 Yamaha Blaster 200 YFS200N Parts, 2001 Yamaha Blaster 200 YFS200N OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com.

Here's the ones you'll need. (1) # 26 counter bal. Washer. (Under piston and crankshaft section) and (2) of #9 idler gear snap rings.(under starter clutch section)
And (1) of #15 clutch basket lock washer (under transmission section)

These scematics should be the same as at any yamaha dealership. Jus print the scematics, circle those that you need and take it to your local yamaha shop to get what you needI:I

 

[dirtysquared]

Reps Given to KTmRacing559. For going out of his way to help.

 

[tbrooks]

Indeed! thanks a lot ktm!

 

[tbrooks]

Might have found a problem here. I was cleaning the engine before I took it apart and I found a glob of something so naturally I scraped it off and that's when I uncovered this...

I think its JB weld. It appears the chain came off quite dramatically which isn't surprising since the master link clip was missing and the chain had a lot of slack when I got it. So what am I looking at here, any ideas, do ya'll think its something to be concerned about

 

[KTM RACING 559]

Thanks for the rep guys!I:I and no prob tbrooks happy to help!

I had the same problem when I rebuilt mine, had a hole in the same area near the clutch actuator arm, i have access to a tig welding maching with AC polarity output so i welded it myself. the best and only way to permantly fix the problem is to have it welded. You could re coat it with more epoxy/jb weld but i honestly wouldn't recommend it. I would either call any local welding/fabrication shops to get price quotes or you can find one used off ebay. If the repair cost is costly or you can't find a good one on ebay. PM me and I can weld it for you.

 

[tbrooks]

Thanks again man. You've been a huge help. I'll check around and see if I can find someone to do it.

 

[mud runner]

iv got a set of cases if you need some