New Blaster Project - Help Needed

[knock10090]

Hello

I'm new to this site. I am pretty versed in 2 stokes being that I'm a proud owner of an 87 LT250r.

I just picked up a blaster to flip and sell but my wife has really hinted hard on keeping it for herself.

It is a 2001 stock motor blaster that is seized. From what I can see, PO attempted oil delete and didn't block off carb.

I am seeking some help on what setup to go with? Stock rebuild? If I'm into a bore job would it be better to put the money into a big bore kit?

It came with a full FMF pipe setup. I figure a set of Boyesen reeds will definitely go in. I'm more partial to Mikuni Carbs. What size flat slide carb should I go with?

Any help would be appreciated. I'm interested in what you guys think. Let me know what direction you think I should go. Budget is somewhat flexible and I don't mind running race gas. This will complete the cycle and make us a family of 2 strokers. My son has a predator 90 and daughter an LT80!

 

[speedyslyder]

if you want the cylinder bored properly and piston fitted correctly,
then send it to @OConnor Racing ...http://kenoconnorracing.com/index.html

leak testing is mandatory..
a stock ported cylinder/head will beat a 240kit from ken ocoonor/or a 240 ported even better.
the 240kit add a 20%increase i believe...which is the same as going from a stock pipe to an aftermarket

other's will reply

 

[knock10090]

if you want the cylinder bored properly and piston fitted correctly,
then send it to @OConnor Racing ...http://kenoconnorracing.com/index.html

leak testing is mandatory..
a stock ported cylinder/head will beat a 240kit from ken ocoonor/or a 240 ported even better.
the 240kit add a 20%increase i believe...which is the same as going from a stock pipe to an aftermarket

other's will reply

I've cruised KORs site just before posting tread. I like the fact of going to a well known race shop.

I have a nice leak down tester. I had to use it on my LT.

I don't want to go too crazy. My wife will probably only be seeing 3 gear. Something that runs efficient and has that good low end.

 

[Blaaster]

With the FMF pipe, keep using the stock 26mm carb if you wish a good low power hit! Large carbs are more suited to top end performance!

If you go with a KOR ported stock cylinder and rechambered head there may be no need to use race fuel

 

[jus_me]

Good filter, open air box if your riding area isnt watery, stock carb, ported cyl, head rechamber, good set of reeds should do you well.

 

[Bluesman]

The motor did not seize from failure to block off carb oil injection port. Do a leakdown test before you take it apart. If the crank seals are leaking, they can be replaced without splitting the cases. If you take it apart and find the piston seized and the crank is tight and smooth, you may get away with just doing a topend. If the piston skirt is broke off, you need to split the cases. You probably will need to rebuild the crank and may have cracked cases.

Once you build it, even if it turns out your wife doesn't want it, your son and daughter will be ready to step up to something bigger before you know it.

 

[knock10090]

I'm thinking that would be a good start. I'm just going to call KOR direct and get a quote. I do come across some standing water now and again. I'm thinking at least just running no air box lid.

From my understanding. The stock blaster carbs are 26mm round slide. I like how my mikuni tm34ss flat slide is on my LT. How would say a 28mm flat slide be?

 

[knock10090]

The motor did not seize from failure to block off carb oil injection port. Do a leakdown test before you take it apart. If the crank seals are leaking, they can be replaced without splitting the cases. If you take it apart and find the piston seized and the crank is tight and smooth, you may get away with just doing a topend. If the piston skirt is broke off, you need to split the cases. You probably will need to rebuild the crank and may have cracked cases.

Lol. I was responding to another post when yours came through. This site is great. A lot of live support. Thanks!

I will be sure to test it. I'm hoping just a top end. I can put the money reserved for a crank into some porting.

 

[Herpderplol]

I'm thinking that would be a good start. I'm just going to call KOR direct and get a quote. I do come across some standing water now and again. I'm thinking at least just running no air box lid.

From my understanding. The stock blaster carbs are 26mm round slide. I like how my mikuni tm34ss flat slide is on my LT. How would say a 28mm flat slide be?

is there a reason to that you want to switch?

 

[knock10090]

is there a reason to that you want to switch?

Not necessarily. There is an unknown size pwk on it now. Stock mikuni was loose in box o parts and appears hammered and missing slide, needle, and cap. I'm more partial to mikuni over the keihin and figure on selling the Pwk. I would look to buy a new mikuni and was looking at the flat slides. The flat side on my LT has not let me down.

 

[Blaaster]

You can do no better than the round slide Vm26ss stock carby with the FMF pipe, any larger you may loose low/mid power and only get a small increase in top end as the FMF is designed as a low/mid pipe.

I feel you will be wasting precious money on a flat slide carby!

 

[knock10090]

You can do no better than the round slide Vm26ss stock carby with the FMF pipe, any larger you may loose low/mid power and only get a small increase in top end as the FMF is designed as a low/mid pipe.

I feel you will be wasting precious money on a flat slide carby!

Good insight. Let me start sourcing the missing parts.

 

[Herpderplol]

You can do no better than the round slide Vm26ss stock carby with the FMF pipe, any larger you may loose low/mid power and only get a small increase in top end as the FMF is designed as a low/mid pipe.

I feel you will be wasting precious money on a flat slide carby!

I run a 32mm with my FMF with no problem.

although i have very aggressive porting and a CFM airbox for added flow

i would say the power with the FMF and 32 is half the powerband kick than the LRD. although the LRD was way higher rpm
the FMF comes on just about 2/3 throttle. which would be a little high for a stock engine but its still great none the less

 

[knock10090]

Ok. Finally got home from vacation and was able to start my rebuild. Got everything apart and found that my motor is locked up due the piston skirt exploding. Small metal found inside intake. Exhaust side skirt was broken. Left side crankcase suffered a small crack and a dime size hole. It appears the damage all was on one side of the case.

What do you think about wiseco bottom end kits. I'm assuming the crank and bearings are all effed up now due to shrapnel.

Now as far as repairing it. I TIG weld pretty frequently. I make all sorts of aluminum stuff for quads as a hobby. Not too sure about cast aluminum repairs of this sort. Think I should give it ago? Does anyone have a good left side (stator side case) they want to part with?

The cylinder on the other hand appears to be fine. No scoring or gouges observed or felt.

My carb turned out to be a Keihin 29s which apparently is a 28mm carb so I should be good there. There is a Pro Design Intake on it that was unbeknownst to me.

Time to call Ken and get this rolling soon.

 

[knock10090]

Ok. I'm in the process of rebuilding my carb (keihin pwk 28mm) on this project. The damn PO really has this effed up. The first problem I see is the idle adjustment screw is broken off. For whatever reason he just plugged it with a plastic screw. I was successful at removing that.

The second thing I see is that he has the wrong air screw in it. It is really short and he had to put 2 springs in it.

Lastly, and this really is a bugaboo. He pinched off overflow tube in carb bowl. Now it has a slow drip. Not really sure of a fix for this.

 

[jus_me]

Well that sux.. Im not sure if you can get that piece of brass tubing out with some heat . Maybe with a small pencil torch. I have had some success getting those out but from diff crabs. Then you can get yourself some small brass tubing from E bay and put a new one in. Heat the bowl and press in tubing, when it cools it should fit tightly. Or try to un pinch it ? . <<<< not sure if all that is worth the trouble . You could always get a new bowl also.

 

[knock10090]

Well that sux.. Im not sure if you can get that piece of brass tubing out with some heat . Maybe with a small pencil torch. I have had some success getting those out but from diff crabs. Then you can get yourself some small brass tubing from E bay and put a new one in. Heat the bowl and press in tubing, when it cools it should fit tightly. Or try to un pinch it ? . <<<< not sure if all that is worth the trouble . You could always get a new bowl also.

YES! great advice.

Now. How long (how far should it stick above the top edge of bowl?

 

[jus_me]

Nice ! You can get the tubing off E bay for real cheap.