more problems with the blaster
- Thread starter mud runner
- Start date
seriously ....last chance for help from me bud. check your electricals!!! if you can get it to start but it wont idle, to me sounds rich, and it revs but runs rouygh , again sounds rich to me. soooooooo if you have a WEAK spark it will still fire but will run like its rich. and before you go doing anything else after the electrical test, if thats not the case dont run it till you get the leakdown test confirmed that its not an airleak.
again, CHECK YOUR ELECTRICS OUT!!!!! the bike doesnt need to be running to check that stuiff and its tits easy.
again, CHECK YOUR ELECTRICS OUT!!!!! the bike doesnt need to be running to check that stuiff and its tits easy.
Then it is a good thing that you have one on order, you sure are going to need it.
While the motor is unoperational it may pay to heed 98blaster's advice.
I am getting a little confused, who's problems are we dealing with Mud runners or Blaster bruce.
Or is it my old timers kicking in prematurly.
Or is it my old timers kicking in prematurly.
Bruce, what say we deal with Mud runners problem here and you start another thread, so we can addess yours.
It is way too confusing to me to deal with mixed posts, bear in mind I am an old fart.
It is way too confusing to me to deal with mixed posts, bear in mind I am an old fart.
it is getting spark but i think it is getting too mutch fuel im gonna check the air filter and try to put a diffrent plug in it and see if it rund
Healthy, bright blue spark on a b8es plug, should say ok.
If the timing has slipped, that may show your symptoms.
Does the carb leak any fuel?
Have you checked the float level?
If the timing has slipped, that may show your symptoms.
Does the carb leak any fuel?
Have you checked the float level?
it has spark
how do i check to see if the timing has slipped
no the carb doesent leak any fuel
float level is ok
Foolish to ask, but is the petcock on?
To see if the timing is correct you have to pull the flywheel off to see if the woodruff key is broken.
It would be a good idea to do a leak down test before you start wrenching.
If you have been kicking it for a while you may have flooded it.
Take the plug out and kick it lots of times to clear out the buildup of fuel.
Get a volt meter, unplug the black/red stripe wire and solid black wire, put red lead on the striped one and black on the solid one, should be 192-288 Ohms, if not that is your problem electrically. I went through this with my new build, and my source coil ended up being 6 ohms less than what the book says, that was enough to cause a no start issue, funny it was a brand new stator! Swapped another stator started 2 nd kick!,
I see you did get it to run, however, swap in a new plug boot or a different ignition coil, even with an air leak it should fire up and run sh*tty!
I see you did get it to run, however, swap in a new plug boot or a different ignition coil, even with an air leak it should fire up and run sh*tty!
i put some gas and oil resisant epoxy where it is leaking to help seal it up (for now till we actualy get it fixed) i wont bbe able to work on it till tuesday or wendsday because im going up to my grandparents house but when i get back ill check all the electrical connections
the petcock is on it is getting fuel to the motor because it will ocasionaly fire but only run for about 5 seconds and then dies
Remove the drain screw from the carb and make sure you have a good flow of fuel pouring out.
That should tell if the float is snagging on the posts or bowl sides.
What did you set the float level to, or what did did it measure?
Is the needle free to move in the seat?
Is the tang on the float, where it mates with the needle, free from indention or damage?
Bear in mind that an epoxy fix, is a poxy fix, and just as bad as a crap weld job.
Have you done that extremly important leak down test yet?
That should tell if the float is snagging on the posts or bowl sides.
What did you set the float level to, or what did did it measure?
Is the needle free to move in the seat?
Is the tang on the float, where it mates with the needle, free from indention or damage?
Bear in mind that an epoxy fix, is a poxy fix, and just as bad as a crap weld job.
Have you done that extremly important leak down test yet?
well i figured out what it was the extra spark plug i had the gape was closed so it wouldent spark and the one that was in it was fouled
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