LRD/high temp scilicon tape

I find it hard to believe different rings burning up, they go on the same engine and the temps coming out of it are all with in the same range and all made from same material, as far as using different rings tho you would get better fitment sizes. rings don't sound like the issue as much as why is the pipe moving so much to be breaking this tape seal. Iv heard so many issues with these pipes moving around so much and see so many cracked, welded, moved mounts on them. when a pipe is bolted up it should not move or wiggle at all, is this whats causing these issues for everyone? is it the exhaust wiggling? if that's the case than maybe adding an extra mounting tab somewhere, maybe 2 up front and 1 near back stinger. than with extra mounting now add a brand oring that fits and is temp rated, maybe add a second spring like some pipes use. Honestly Iv never messed with one so im just trying to blindly help, but theres always a reason for a problem and once the reason is found you can make a solution. other option is to get a turbo coupler at joint, hard to see how it would sit with all that stuff going on but maybe that's what ppl need? ill stay tuned, interested in how this turns out, as well as herps flange.
 
The fmf got hard and fell apart. All 3 of them. Don't know why. I actually tried a coupler but the spring gets in the way. I have it bolted up properly and it doesn't move. I'm gonna find a solution. I was looking at silicone high temp sheets. I was thinking of wrapping it around the flange, expansion chamber, and using clamps. It would be like the coupler but more flexible. Maybe even wrap it around the spring as well. Or maybe eliminate the spring all together.
 
If i had my flange at home i would make a quick video of how the pipe moves whilst riding.

the BEST thing to do would put a solid mount on the top/left side that would mount somewhere near the stock top mounting point

idk if that makes sense. but then you would have 2 bolts, the flange, and the stinger to take off just for the header
 
Herpderplol said:
If i had my flange at home i would make a quick video of how the pipe moves whilst riding.

the BEST thing to do would put a solid mount on the top/left side that would mount somewhere near the stock top mounting point

idk if that makes sense. but then you would have 2 bolts, the flange, and the stinger to take off just for the header
Click to expand...
Ok so we determind, the pipe moves. I had this prob on my bros stock exhaust onnhis truck, kept snapping off bc hangers were in awkward positions, only 2 and not supportin weight, we cut them off all together, i put 1 on every 35 deg bend which were kind of pivot points due to weight of exhaust, so after 3 hangers in proper positions plus a 4 bc i get nervous 4 men can hang on it and it wont even move. Now the lrd has the same looking "pivot points" my bros truck had, what im seeing is u want 3 mounts on header, 1 right infront of stinger to frame, 1 right at expansion before bending under frame straight to a arm area, and one inside frame by flange. The important one is by the stinger tho, the stinger itself will not stop pivot movement (its not spose to either) its a shame these pipes dont fit with the flange welded, thad solve it all lol.
 
BlasterFun484 said:
Ok so we determind, the pipe moves. I had this prob on my bros stock exhaust onnhis truck, kept snapping off bc hangers were in awkward positions, only 2 and not supportin weight, we cut them off all together, i put 1 on every 35 deg bend which were kind of pivot points due to weight of exhaust, so after 3 hangers in proper positions plus a 4 bc i get nervous 4 men can hang on it and it wont even move. Now the lrd has the same looking "pivot points" my bros truck had, what im seeing is u want 3 mounts on header, 1 right infront of stinger to frame, 1 right at expansion before bending under frame straight to a arm area, and one inside frame by flange. The important one is by the stinger tho, the stinger itself will not stop pivot movement (its not spose to either) its a shame these pipes dont fit with the flange welded, thad solve it all lol.
Click to expand...
I agree about the welding. It would have to be done on the bike. Then it's there for good til you cut it out. Ouch.
 
Could a stocker end be cut and the end and flange be grafted on to the lrd. That way the lrd would mount and seal just like a stocker and use the same exhaust gasket?
 
i didnt bring it home today, but because i had to work.

the problem is the the pre-made mount is the pivot point on the pipe. where it attaches to the a-arm. like the problem you had on that truck
you mentioned having a mount by where it connects to the stinger. i dont think it would help because thats almost in-line with the front mount pivoting

even a wire tying it to the frame helps. i know this because i DID use a wire to help it once. the adjustable has the bolts and i attached there

anyways. the flange im making is looking good so far. maybe have finished by friday? no guarantee. because friday there is always a "test" to weld
but definitely pictures by then.

So far cost:
$6 for the 2 pipe pieces i bought, i need one more size
$free flat piece i got from our garbage bin
Time? 2-3 hours with just as much left
 
Herpderplol said:
Thats more of an insulator so no heat gets out... and i would pay to see someone wrap that around the pipe and shove it in the flange :D
Click to expand...
I read about it being used to seal an exhaust pipe. Been trying to find the post. It's a seal, not an insulator.
 
sneak peek
 

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I would have wrote something but I was almost late getting back to school (lol)

anyways, I want to know if anyone can guess what that lip is for. its probably just under 1mm tall

I can not find a pipe small enough to fit inside the LRD at o'rielys and menards doesn't carry any. so I wont be able to do inside/outside flange like I wanted and the way it would have been best. welding the outer piece will be tough enough but I might get it done today. either that or I will be grinding it perfect today

with the mounting holes, I was off by <.5mm it will slide onto the threaded part but not onto the bolt itself. so I will have to enlarge those slightly (yippe...)


anyone have input, comments or suggestions?
 
Herpderplol said:
I would have wrote something but I was almost late getting back to school (lol)

anyways, I want to know if anyone can guess what that lip is for. its probably just under 1mm tall

I can not find a pipe small enough to fit inside the LRD at o'rielys and menards doesn't carry any. so I wont be able to do inside/outside flange like I wanted and the way it would have been best. welding the outer piece will be tough enough but I might get it done today. either that or I will be grinding it perfect today

with the mounting holes, I was off by <.5mm it will slide onto the threaded part but not onto the bolt itself. so I will have to enlarge those slightly (yippe...)


anyone have input, comments or suggestions?
Click to expand...
If you could find a pipe for the inside that would rock. Do you have any local pipe distributors?
 
Fast6hand said:
If you could find a pipe for the inside that would rock. Do you have any local pipe distributors?
Click to expand...
Not that I know of. the ID of the pipe is 1.5 and I can find a pipe with the 1.5 id but not a 1.5 od.

one thing I could do is cut the 1.5 pipe length-wise and force it in the pipe and weld to size. I will try thast actually. I have an extra piece of 1.5 id
 
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