Very nice! You should be proud and when that thing runs I'm sure it will make you "very excite."
KTM powered Blaster
- Thread starter best
- Start date
Roostinshee, aren't you the "Chewbacca" guy?
I think I followed a thread of yours about a DT200 swap?
I'd like to see more pictures from you guys who have done the hard work figuring out swaps.
I gotta thank all you guys like specialized7 and YZ-Otis who have posted build threads and
sent advice. It is invaluable.
My son has a DT200 and was originally thinking of doing that swap, but fixed his original motor instead.
One thing I'd like to see is a comparison of the weight of the air cooled vs the liquid.
I don't own bathroom scales (divorce... you lose some stuff and never see the need for it again!)
but am inclined to buy one to weigh my engine and rad.
So, the bike is running, with a rad on but no pipe yet, no intake and no rear brakes.
A few feet of snow outside the garage door limit it to about 4 feet into the snowbank,
which is just as well if it has no air-filter. No pipe reduces low end torque and we don't
want to burn up a piston, so it has been limited to a few "Blasts" (get the pun?) around
the garage and snowbank. WOW. Starts easy, spins easy. No wheelies on the slippery
wet floor. First gear feels tall, but it is only the garage, you know?
I gotta take a picture of the lower mount too. Simple rig. Plates welded to a frame tube
with a brace between them. Take up load in all planes. I wanted a bolt in mount, in case
I went back to the Blaster 200 or to a 125 KTM motor, but it was SOooooo quick and simple
and strong to weld the mount in place.
Worked on the rear cable brake today. Think I am going to junk that and go directly to
hydraulic. My piston and guts seem seized and the long double cable is not what I want,
since my handbrake lever is too far buggered to be used as a park-brake anymore.
My Raptor park-brake was terribly hard to keep set up, I never used it.
Anyone use your park-brakes?
I think I followed a thread of yours about a DT200 swap?
I'd like to see more pictures from you guys who have done the hard work figuring out swaps.
I gotta thank all you guys like specialized7 and YZ-Otis who have posted build threads and
sent advice. It is invaluable.
My son has a DT200 and was originally thinking of doing that swap, but fixed his original motor instead.
One thing I'd like to see is a comparison of the weight of the air cooled vs the liquid.
I don't own bathroom scales (divorce... you lose some stuff and never see the need for it again!)
but am inclined to buy one to weigh my engine and rad.
So, the bike is running, with a rad on but no pipe yet, no intake and no rear brakes.
A few feet of snow outside the garage door limit it to about 4 feet into the snowbank,
which is just as well if it has no air-filter. No pipe reduces low end torque and we don't
want to burn up a piston, so it has been limited to a few "Blasts" (get the pun?) around
the garage and snowbank. WOW. Starts easy, spins easy. No wheelies on the slippery
wet floor. First gear feels tall, but it is only the garage, you know?
I gotta take a picture of the lower mount too. Simple rig. Plates welded to a frame tube
with a brace between them. Take up load in all planes. I wanted a bolt in mount, in case
I went back to the Blaster 200 or to a 125 KTM motor, but it was SOooooo quick and simple
and strong to weld the mount in place.
Worked on the rear cable brake today. Think I am going to junk that and go directly to
hydraulic. My piston and guts seem seized and the long double cable is not what I want,
since my handbrake lever is too far buggered to be used as a park-brake anymore.
My Raptor park-brake was terribly hard to keep set up, I never used it.
Anyone use your park-brakes?
OK, Here is the lower motor mount for anyone wanting to do a similar swap:
Yeah, I know it is greasy. Real guy with a real life and not a lot of time.
Not a lot of time for polishing and preening, although I am really impressed by those of
you who do put the effort in. This machine will never be a "show" machine.
It is a "GO!" machine.
Routing the pipe. Will weld wedges in to get it to go where I need it:
Rear brake parts selection of calipers and master cylinders.
Starting at the top and going clockwise:
Stock Blaster cable operated disk caliper.
Ninja 250 dual piston floating caliper
Raptor 350 caliper
Wilwood opposed dual piston rigid caliper
Banshee/Raptor/Blaster front caliper
Raptor 350 master cylinder
Wilwood left hand grip master cylinder
Ninja 250 master cylinder
Have not decided what to use yet. Will probably be decided by best fit more than
the theoretical advantages of things like dual pistons. Easily changed if not liked.
Yeah, I know it is greasy. Real guy with a real life and not a lot of time.
Not a lot of time for polishing and preening, although I am really impressed by those of
you who do put the effort in. This machine will never be a "show" machine.
It is a "GO!" machine.
Routing the pipe. Will weld wedges in to get it to go where I need it:
Rear brake parts selection of calipers and master cylinders.
Starting at the top and going clockwise:
Stock Blaster cable operated disk caliper.
Ninja 250 dual piston floating caliper
Raptor 350 caliper
Wilwood opposed dual piston rigid caliper
Banshee/Raptor/Blaster front caliper
Raptor 350 master cylinder
Wilwood left hand grip master cylinder
Ninja 250 master cylinder
Have not decided what to use yet. Will probably be decided by best fit more than
the theoretical advantages of things like dual pistons. Easily changed if not liked.
The snow is melting here. I still haven't finished the pipe, air box or rear brake but
stuck a K&N filter on it and took it over the snowbank in front of the garage.
Wahoo! Shifter is in a good location, gearing is a bit high, engine and rad seem to be
tucked in nicely. Front cable brakes suck. A few good hard stops and the new cables
need adjusting. They stop it but have a terrible spongy feel and yet the drums are
grabby. Man, have brakes come a long way over the years.
Made up a bracket that will take either the Ninja 250 or the Wilwood sled double piston calipers. Still have to connect the master cylinder.
Weather has been sunny, so I have been out riding on the bike (KTM). It was -8 but sunny the other day. Froze my 'nads off but it was fun. Woods are still packed with snow. Muddy when it warms up, best riding is when it is below freezing. Still jetted for cool temps so I have to go easy on the full throttle. One day it is -8c, next day it is +8c. hard to pick jetting here.
stuck a K&N filter on it and took it over the snowbank in front of the garage.
Wahoo! Shifter is in a good location, gearing is a bit high, engine and rad seem to be
tucked in nicely. Front cable brakes suck. A few good hard stops and the new cables
need adjusting. They stop it but have a terrible spongy feel and yet the drums are
grabby. Man, have brakes come a long way over the years.
Made up a bracket that will take either the Ninja 250 or the Wilwood sled double piston calipers. Still have to connect the master cylinder.
Weather has been sunny, so I have been out riding on the bike (KTM). It was -8 but sunny the other day. Froze my 'nads off but it was fun. Woods are still packed with snow. Muddy when it warms up, best riding is when it is below freezing. Still jetted for cool temps so I have to go easy on the full throttle. One day it is -8c, next day it is +8c. hard to pick jetting here.
Are you adding length to the pipe to get it to fit?
Adding length to the pipe detrimentally affects your top end. I mean, it's not like you need any more top end power... it is a dirtbike engine afterall...
I agree, front cable drum brakes stink out loud. You either need to upgrade to norman420 spindles or banshee spindles and get a-arms made for them. Hydraulic front brakes are much better than the cable drum.
I still have the cable caliper on the rear of mine although I did away with the parking brake piece of it (shorty cable). I cleaned and lubed it and haven't had any problems out of it since I got my quad together. I think it's a luck of the draw thing on the cable rear brakes... some work great, some don't. Mine will slide the back tires on command.
Adding length to the pipe detrimentally affects your top end. I mean, it's not like you need any more top end power... it is a dirtbike engine afterall...
I agree, front cable drum brakes stink out loud. You either need to upgrade to norman420 spindles or banshee spindles and get a-arms made for them. Hydraulic front brakes are much better than the cable drum.
I still have the cable caliper on the rear of mine although I did away with the parking brake piece of it (shorty cable). I cleaned and lubed it and haven't had any problems out of it since I got my quad together. I think it's a luck of the draw thing on the cable rear brakes... some work great, some don't. Mine will slide the back tires on command.
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I have drum fronts- they ain't the best.
If you just replaced the pads they get a lil better after being run in.
With the pipe adding area to it affects the powerband no doubt.
How it affects it depends on where on the pipe your adding length.
As little as an inch in the head pipe area can turn a top-end pipe into a lowend trail pipe.
If you just replaced the pads they get a lil better after being run in.
With the pipe adding area to it affects the powerband no doubt.
How it affects it depends on where on the pipe your adding length.
As little as an inch in the head pipe area can turn a top-end pipe into a lowend trail pipe.
Yeah, I am adding length to the pipe. The 2003 KTM250SX motor tends to be a screamer with a sharp narrow harsh top end powerband. The powervalve is adjustable but the pipe and porting are biased toward top end power in this engine. My hope is to lower the powerband a bit, to better suit the heavier machine.
On the headpipe I have added a couple 1/4" wedges and added a 1" wedge on the fat section. I have a great selection of pipes, if this doesn't work well, I'll do another, trying to learn from the first. I just cannot fit a stock pipe unfortunately, due to the framework in front of the engine. I can theorize all I want, I won't know until I try it.
Myv cccccccccccccq1 front brakes will lock up, and I don't doubt your back does too, but that is not all you ask of good brakes. Ideally they will work very progressively from first contact to lock up with minimal hand grip (or pedal) movement, and after lock up release with the slightest release of pedal.
On the headpipe I have added a couple 1/4" wedges and added a 1" wedge on the fat section. I have a great selection of pipes, if this doesn't work well, I'll do another, trying to learn from the first. I just cannot fit a stock pipe unfortunately, due to the framework in front of the engine. I can theorize all I want, I won't know until I try it.
Myv cccccccccccccq1 front brakes will lock up, and I don't doubt your back does too, but that is not all you ask of good brakes. Ideally they will work very progressively from first contact to lock up with minimal hand grip (or pedal) movement, and after lock up release with the slightest release of pedal.
I'm not as well versed in the WAY that changing the pipe will affect the powerband. I believe adding pipe to the divergent section will lower the peak, adding length to the fat section will broaden the peak, so you might be well on your way with the modifications to the pipe to the land of sweet powerband.
About my back brakes, I meant it when I said, on command. My cable caliper in the rear works flawlessly (at least for now!) with a progressive feel and perfect release but I really think it's a luck of the draw type of thing. Some work great and some really stink out loud.
About my back brakes, I meant it when I said, on command. My cable caliper in the rear works flawlessly (at least for now!) with a progressive feel and perfect release but I really think it's a luck of the draw type of thing. Some work great and some really stink out loud.
Yeah, I agree that the cable brakes can be great in some cases, but it takes a lot of fiddling and maintenance to get it there and keep it there. Looking forward to hydraulics.
I was shocked to see my above post was sent. I had been working on it, left it for a while, and when I cam back, it was gone. I can only guess the cat jumped up on the keyboard and sent it! If it seemed like an incomplete thought, it was.
I was shocked to see my above post was sent. I had been working on it, left it for a while, and when I cam back, it was gone. I can only guess the cat jumped up on the keyboard and sent it! If it seemed like an incomplete thought, it was.
It does take a lot of fiddling and maintenance (more so than hydraulic brakes) to keep them working really well but all I ever hear about is how bad the rear cable brakes are on blaster's but I've been really pleased with the service I've gotten out of mine. I was actually shocked to learn, after my generally positive experience, that people were very upset at their rear cable brakes.
I'm interested to see how the added length affects the power output.
I'm interested to see how the added length affects the power output.
It sounds like you got a good plan goin for the pipe. The wedges won't be a big deal and the lil addition your making to the head pipe could actually work out.
I'm really curious how it works out just for some insight. Vid is a must now my friend haha
For my 400 I used a DG aftermarket pipe. I added appox. 4" in the head pipe region no where else. It shifted the powerband LOW like off idle low.
Hard to believe but off idle wheelies through the gears.
The draw back is after about 4000rpm your dropping off lol
Sorry for the ramble just sayin I've been there.
I still think you'll be OK.
I'm really curious how it works out just for some insight. Vid is a must now my friend haha
For my 400 I used a DG aftermarket pipe. I added appox. 4" in the head pipe region no where else. It shifted the powerband LOW like off idle low.
Hard to believe but off idle wheelies through the gears.
The draw back is after about 4000rpm your dropping off lol
Sorry for the ramble just sayin I've been there.
I still think you'll be OK.
Well the 4K rpm redline is perfect for that dinosaur you run. You don't need to turn it too hard, it might throw out its back or its dentures might fall out!
BWAHAHA!
All jokes aside, it's interesting 4" of pipe lowered the peak power that much.
Maybe best is onto something. Add about 1.5" of effective length to the headpipe to knock down a touch of that peaky nature.
BWAHAHA!
All jokes aside, it's interesting 4" of pipe lowered the peak power that much.
Maybe best is onto something. Add about 1.5" of effective length to the headpipe to knock down a touch of that peaky nature.
Well the 4K rpm redline is perfect for that dinosaur you run. You don't need to turn it too hard, it might throw out its back or its dentures might fall out!
BWAHAHA!
All jokes aside, it's interesting 4" of pipe lowered the peak power that much.
Maybe best is onto something. Add about 1.5" of effective length to the headpipe to knock down a touch of that peaky nature.
FTZ OFF drag pipe = 9000 rpms get sum!
Just can't shift the beast with it.
Sorry Best for derailing your thread buddy
Well, the pipe is done, no silencer yet, but it is welded up and I was anxious to giv'er a try, to see if the added length messed up the pipe tuning.
HOLY COW! Awesome kit! It freakin' honks! It still has a hit, pipe mods didn't kill that.
It is a bit low on torque on initial take off, especially compared to the stock Blaster motor,
but once the revs pick up slightly, it will readily loft or spin like a crazy fool trying.
This motor is brutally snappy in a bike and doesn't seem to have lost that quality.
I was hoping for more off idle torque but a lot of that is port timing, not changeable.
Gearing (14/40) is a a bit high on take off. I worry this may be a factor of the close ratio
motorcross gearbox so I am not changing it yet, until I see what the top speed is like.
Too high a first gear will not work well in our eastern woods where creeping and crawling
can often be an asset.
Still fiddling with front brakes. Trying to get them to brake evenly and not lock up.
Still working on rear brake. Ninja 250 caliper mounted, working on master cylinder.
Rear brake should be that done this evening if life doesn't get in the way.
Pictures coming, maybe even a video.
HOLY COW! Awesome kit! It freakin' honks! It still has a hit, pipe mods didn't kill that.
It is a bit low on torque on initial take off, especially compared to the stock Blaster motor,
but once the revs pick up slightly, it will readily loft or spin like a crazy fool trying.
This motor is brutally snappy in a bike and doesn't seem to have lost that quality.
I was hoping for more off idle torque but a lot of that is port timing, not changeable.
Gearing (14/40) is a a bit high on take off. I worry this may be a factor of the close ratio
motorcross gearbox so I am not changing it yet, until I see what the top speed is like.
Too high a first gear will not work well in our eastern woods where creeping and crawling
can often be an asset.
Still fiddling with front brakes. Trying to get them to brake evenly and not lock up.
Still working on rear brake. Ninja 250 caliper mounted, working on master cylinder.
Rear brake should be that done this evening if life doesn't get in the way.
Pictures coming, maybe even a video.
Yeah, that a good point. It is hard to get around.
Most of the calipers I looked at either float on pins, or have pistons on either
side which in effect float as well. This Ninja caliper has enough travel that it will
stay on the disk anywhere in its travel as far as I can tell.
The Wilwood opposed piston caliper that I have looks like it may allow the disk to drift far
enough to a side to drop a brake puck. That would not be good.
Makes AWK08's well thought out system look better and better doesn't it?
Either that or get a non-floating hub and axle setup
A banshee axle and brake hub are drop in replacements for the blaster axle (except wider and non-floating brake hub). The banshee had a floating caliper and fixed disc on the rear.
There is another option too.... East Coast ATV makes a hydrualic rear brake kit they sell on Ebay:
blaster **NEW** rear hydraulic brake kit caliper - eBay (item 250788890982 end time Mar-22-11 09:49:27 PDT)
which utilizes a standard hydraulic rear caliper (sport quad style with the funky bracket for the parking brake cable) with the parking brake bracket removed and the caliper bolted directly to a fixed bracket using the parking brake threaded holes. The bracket is all you need, as you already have the rest of the parts. You could contact them about the mounting bracket and see if they would sell you just the caliper bracket and if not, construct your own.
A banshee axle and brake hub are drop in replacements for the blaster axle (except wider and non-floating brake hub). The banshee had a floating caliper and fixed disc on the rear.
There is another option too.... East Coast ATV makes a hydrualic rear brake kit they sell on Ebay:
blaster **NEW** rear hydraulic brake kit caliper - eBay (item 250788890982 end time Mar-22-11 09:49:27 PDT)
which utilizes a standard hydraulic rear caliper (sport quad style with the funky bracket for the parking brake cable) with the parking brake bracket removed and the caliper bolted directly to a fixed bracket using the parking brake threaded holes. The bracket is all you need, as you already have the rest of the parts. You could contact them about the mounting bracket and see if they would sell you just the caliper bracket and if not, construct your own.
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This is what I'm talking about best. I'm glad you were my first friend on here. That thing looks great. I just got my Rectifier/Regulator in the mail and my hids. It came with instructions on how to connect to the stator to the battery.. So much easier then what we thought.
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