KOR engine finally running!

[Dutter]

Ken did the head, port, bore and crank. I did the assembly per his videos. So far all is well got my oil pump up and running and will be retorqing tomorrow.
Ken's work and videos are great!!
I need to get jetting down and a few other odds and ends. Big thanks to the forum and KOR!!
I wish I had known how this ran before so I could feel the difference. I also have Graydon pipe and silencer and UNI filter, was going to get V Force4 but thought I would wait and drive first to know what the diff is.

 

[Fast6hand]

That's awesome to hear! You will love it.

 

[Herpderplol]

Im assuming you leak tested

It doesnt matter how it rode before, its going to be hella fun now!!

Im not sure how a graydon pipe mounts up, but be sure you use a little RTV copper and get it sealed

 

[bummer981]

Looking forward to the ride report.

 

[Dutter]

Im assuming you leak tested

It doesnt matter how it rode before, its going to be hella fun now!!

Im not sure how a graydon pipe mounts up, but be sure you use a little RTV copper and get it sealed

I did and took 15 min to lose any air.

 

[Larry's Shee]

I did and took 15 min to lose any air.

Did you bother to find where it was leaking?

 

[Dutter]

Did you bother to find where it was leaking?

Exhaust flange, now it holds.

 

[240Fun]

you won't regret KOR's work for one second he did such an awesome job on my blaster engine that when my honda XR650L motor started using oil i didn't even hesitate to ship it to him i know it's in good hands and hopefully in about 2 weeks all be riding my bike again

 

[Larry's Shee]

Exhaust flange, now it holds.

Good. Might depend on where and how fast a leak is. Such as a cracked intake boot.

 

[Dutter]

Still got a few bugs to work out but wow this little thing has balls to it, should be interesting when everything comes together. I'll be wishing I have more brakes, lol

 

[BudgetBlaster]

I wish had brakes at all.. lol

 

[Dutter]

Ok so I finally got the junk stock carb to work great, I bought the Moose rebuild kit for the needle and seat and I ended up using the needle that came in kit to heritage to run better on the midrange, still not super happy with that. Anyway, this thing is scary when you get some speed, it likes to pull tot he sideand won't stop spinning the tires!!
This thing runs hard! And needs better brakes!
Thanks KOR for your work and videos!!

 

[Herpderplol]

Check tire air pressure if its pulling like that. i almost crashed a few times on a road because of that.

 

[Blaaster]

Ok so I finally got the junk stock carb to work great, I bought the Moose rebuild kit for the needle and seat and I ended up using the needle that came in kit to heritage to run better on the midrange, still not super happy with that. Anyway, this thing is scary when you get some speed, it likes to pull tot he sideand won't stop spinning the tires!!
This thing runs hard! And needs better brakes!
Thanks KOR for your work and videos!!

It may pay to do a 1/2 throttle plug chop to confirm the AFR with that kit needle!

 

[joeak47]

To hell with brakes! GO FASTER!!!

 

[Dutter]

It may pay to do a 1/2 throttle plug chop to confirm the AFR with that kit needle!

You can chop but I don't need to I can read it without chopping, I've been doing it that way since 1974 and have never blew one up!

 

[Blaaster]

Just trying to give you a quicker option than continually fiddling around With screws and needle clips.

A plug chop will tell in one foul swoop where the jetting should be.

I know that I would rather be riding with a safe AFR immediately rather than stuffing around needlessly until one finally gets it correct.

 

[rich1]

I agree Blaaster thats the smart way to do it ! Then there is ... the fact that plug reading takes experience . Champion Spark plugs say to use a tool that lights and magnifies the tip to see down inside. The selection of the carb needle is important too since it is known that a lot of 2 strokes seize at 1/2 throttle . Most people pay attention to low and top end jetting but forget the middle where they ride the most.
Some 2 cycle tuners will use spark plug head temp meters, AFR meters ( ranges in 12.0 -13.5 :1 ) or EGT (ranges in 1100f-1400f). Ive used all three while in roadracing in addition to the basic plug chop.

 

[Dutter]

Just trying to give you a quicker option than continually fiddling around With screws and needle clips.

A plug chop will tell in one foul swoop where the jetting should be.

I know that I would rather be riding with a safe AFR immediately rather than stuffing around needlessly until one finally gets it correct.

I'm really confused as to why you think I can't read a plug without cutting it???? I can read it quicker than you can with the chopping, so really I can do it faster than those that chop. As I said before feel free to chop but it can be done without it just as successful as with!

 

[Blaaster]

If you are looking down into the insulator and are experienced enough to read the ring colour, then I apologise as one can get a fair enough indication of the AFR.

I was under the impression from some of your previous comments that you do not read the colour of a plug insulator but just tune solely by the seat of the pants.

If I have jumped to the incorrect conclusion I again apologise!