HELP

Hi there guys, I rode my blaster the other day after it sitting for a month and it started running very bad. I pulled the plug and it was fouled so I put a new one in after I gaped it and it still is running rough. It won't make rpm or power and is extremely doggy. The mods are a hot rods +4 crank, trinity 265 big bore kit, Ricky 75 watt stator and coil, stock carb with tors but jetted correctly for the mods it also has a full trinity expansion chamber and silencer. I didn't do the jetting because I'm not comfortable doing it but I trust the person who did it alot. It ran great the last time I rode it but not so much now. It also is smoking alot. Do you guys think it could be jetting? It was jetted in September when it was like 75 out and it's now March when it's about 50. If I leaned it out some would that help? I really dont want to have to pay to get it rejeted again because it wasn't cheap the first time. Could their be another problem such as clogged jet or bad connection from stator to wiring harness? Just seeing if somebody can point me in the right direction. I want to get alot of ridding in before summer when it too hot to ride it. Thanks for any help guys. Really appreciate it.
 
It could be a few things. Lets start with the basics and go from there.. First you need to remove the exhaust, then the top end and securely place then in a secure box. then you p.m me and I will give you instructions on how to send them to me so I can enjoy..;)

All joking aside.. What carb are you running? Is the air box and passage ways clear from critters/nests? Exhaust clear from critters/nests? Is tors still hooked up (stock carb) is parking brake still functional? What year?

You will want new gas, a new plug, a good clean air filter, start there and see what happens.

Have you performed a leak down test lately?
 
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It could be a few things. Lets start with the basics and go from there.. First you need to remove the exhaust, then the top end and securely place then in a secure box. then you p.m me and I will give you instructions on how to send them to me so I can enjoy..;)

All joking aside.. What carb are you running? Is the air box and passage ways clear from critters/nests? Exhaust clear from critters/nests? Is tors still hooked up (stock carb) is parking brake still functional? What year?

You will want new gas, a new plug, a good clean air filter, start there and see what happens.

Have you performed a leak down test lately?


Lol. This thing tries to kill me every time I get on it. It's a very new motor. Only like 25 rides on it. Brand new plug, clean gas but I have not checked the air filter.Running the stock carb for right now but tors is long gone. The box is still on the carb because im saveing money to buy a new carb soon. Its a 95. I dont have a leak down tester to test it but how could it be ok one ride then the next not be. It ran horrible from the start of this last ride but the ride before that it ran real harda nd beat my friends mildly built yfz.As for the exhaust I think anything in their is long gone but I'll stick a bore scope in their to check. I'm really concerned about it because I just spent like a 1000 bucks on the front end of it and like 2200 on the motor like 2 years ago.
 
And your still running the stock carb? :confused: Chit happens, plain n simple. You need to leak test before you will really get any input. how bad is it smoking? Does it smell bad? have you checked your tranny fluid? Are you pre mixing or oil injection?

you would be surprised how short if time it takes for critters to build a nest somewhere. specially if it sat for a bit , trust me.
 
And your still running the stock carb? :confused: Chit happens, plain n simple. You need to leak test before you will really get any input. how bad is it smoking? Does it smell bad? have you checked your tranny fluid? Are you pre mixing or oil injection?

you would be surprised how short if time it takes for critters to build a nest somewhere. specially if it sat for a bit , trust me.
I premix it. I got rid of the oil injection a while ago. It's smoking pretty good but it's the 2 stroke oil that's burning. You can tell when yamalube is burning. Tranny oil is fine. I don't have access to a leak down tester so I'll have to come up with someyhing. I can't really afford a carb quite yet. Just trying to finish out this season because I'm tearing it down the the frame in the summer.
 
Have you cleaned the carb lately? checked float height? you should certainly own a leak tester that's for sure. << that or pay 10x the cost of one and have someone do it for you and charge you for seals/gaskets you can do yourself.
 
Have you cleaned the carb lately? checked float height? you should certainly own a leak tester that's for sure. << that or pay 10x the cost of one and have someone do it for you and charge you for seals/gaskets you can do yourself.
I cleaned it before the last ride but I orderd a rebuild kit the other day. I'm pretty certain it's just really rich but want the expert advise that the people of the blaster four has to offer. I don't know where to buy a leak down tester. Do you think orileys or auto zone would loan me one?I think I'm gonna make a youtube video about what it's doing so you guys can hear and see what going on with it rather then me trying to tell you.
 
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forgot to add. If you only dropped 20 degrees your jetting in most cases the main would have jumped up to the next size.. Every 20 degree change usually requires a 10 change << meaning the next size up or down (ex, 240-250).. sometimes a clip change but it shuld still run ok. what pilot you running? that's a big motor there for a stock carb.. after market air box or a stock air box?


Pics will help also.. ;)
 
I really dont want to have to pay to get it rejeted again because it wasn't cheap the first time.
I don't know why it wouldn't be cheap. Doesn't take that much work to properly jet a bike. 2200 on the motor seems high too, for that price it would have to be the best motor on here for sure. Every 2-stroke owner should have a leak tester, and test twice a year at least. Sitting, heat, cold, moisture, lack of moisture, can all do funny things to seals and gaskets. With your issue I would start by checking the exhaust, as said, and check the float height, and of course leak test
 
Very good possibility that your gas has evaporated some and now you have a richer oil ratio. Start with new fuel mix. Clean carb, making sure you can see through both main and pilot jets.
Do all things listed thus far. Then report back.

As to jetting, you would actually be lean in cooler temps.
 
forgot to add. If you only dropped 20 degrees your jetting in most cases the main would have jumped up to the next size.. Every 20 degree change usually requires a 10 change << meaning the next size up or down (ex, 240-250).. sometimes a clip change but it shuld still run ok. what pilot you running? that's a big motor there for a stock carb.. after market air box or a stock air box?


Pics will help also.. ;)
Well the reason it was so expensive the last time was because I had them do the stator. As for jetting I have no Idea what it's got. It runs fine on the lower end just no top end. Stock airbox for now but with k&n filter. The guy who jetted it tried to run it with no lid and with holes in the lid but it limes haveing a stock lid.
 
I don't know why it wouldn't be cheap. Doesn't take that much work to properly jet a bike. 2200 on the motor seems high too, for that price it would have to be the best motor on here for sure. Every 2-stroke owner should have a leak tester, and test twice a year at least. Sitting, heat, cold, moisture, lack of moisture, can all do funny things to seals and gaskets. With your issue I would start by checking the exhaust, as said, and check the float height, and of course leak test
I was being a bit over grasious with that number. It's brand new everything in the motor so it's more like 1600 but still quite a bit.
 
. It runs fine on the lower end just no top end
Stock airbox for now but with k&n filter. The guy who jetted it tried to run it with no lid and with holes in the lid but it limes haveing a stock lid.

that points to a lean condition, either airleak or just plain jetted wrong.
you need to find out what main jet is in there, report that to us for advice, before ever running that bike again.
a leakdown and compression test would be great ideas too.
 
Very good possibility that your gas has evaporated some and now you have a richer oil ratio. Start with new fuel mix. Clean carb, making sure you can see through both main and pilot jets.
Do all things listed thus far. Then report back.

As to jetting, you would actually be lean in cooler temps.
I though that you runner leaner with the colder weather. That's how my rc cars run.As for the gas I run a fresh mix every time. Now that I think about it it runs fine on the low end but not the top so I could have a clogged main jet. I did change the place that i get gas from so maybe thats the ptoblem. I'm gonna get a video up of it probably Monday when I get back into town.
 
that points to a lean condition, either airleak or just plain jetted wrong.
you need to find out what main jet is in there, report that to us for advice, before ever running that bike again.
a leakdown and compression test would be great ideas too.
I'm still haveing a problem believing that it could get a air leak from just sitting. From the moment I started it up it was running rough.
 
no, the colder the temps the richer you must jet it, roughly 1 main jet size per every 20-30 degress colder temps than it was originally plug chop jetted.
if you lean out your 2 stroke RC cars for colder temps, they will need rebuilt soon too.

was it ever jetted with plug chops ???? ...........
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
Our rc cars are nitro. Different territory but kinda the same principal. I belive the guy who jetted it did plug chops. When I try to rev it it hits a wall like their is a rev limiter but at idle it's fine. Not like the tors is screwing up because it's been cut out of the wiring harness so it's not a problem but I think it may be a ignition issue. Maybe my stator is advancing and retarding. I have the rickys 75 watt adjustable stator.
 
sounds like you got nothing to lose.
it is running like crap so get some experience and take the float bowl off the carb at least take out jets clean them and read them:)

sitting for 1month can deffinetly clog up a pilot jet..it is a very tiny hole..you need a tiny flat head screwdriver to take it out:)


you dont need to take carb completely apart your very first time...the next time maybe you will have the guts:) loose the clamps on boots take card out of the boots/to rotate the carb to get access to the float bowl,take out pilot and main #11 #13 soak them in carb cleaner spray carb cleaner wherever you can....read the numbers on jets and let us know:)

02 carb with text 1 1 1.jpg
 
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sounds like you got nothing to lose.
it is running like crap so get some experience and take the float bowl off the carb at least take out jets clean them and read them:)

sitting for 1month can deffinetly clog up a pilot jet..it is a very tiny hole..you need a tiny flat head screwdriver to take it out:)


you dont need to take carb completely apart your very first time...the next time maybe you will have the guts:) loose the clamps on boots take card out of the boots/to rotate the carb to get access to the float bowl,take out pilot and main #11 #13 soak them in carb cleaner spray carb cleaner wherever you can....read the numbers on jets and let us know:)

View attachment 21839
I've rebuilt carbs before so it's not really new territory it's just me and my dad have spent so much money and time on this thing I'm scared to screw around with jets. My rebuild kit for the carb came in today so I'll take pics as I tear into the carb and see what's up with it. Hope in that's all that's wrong with it.