Help with 14T sprocket

[zmaro]

I am currently trying to switch over to my new sprocket. I got the old one off, but I am having trouble getting enough slack in the chain to get the 14T sprocket on. I have the chain on the sprocket and I am trying to get the sprocket on the shaft, but I am about a half inch short. Any help? you don't need another link in the chain for just changing the sprocket by 1 tooth do you?
Thanks

 

[98blaster+4]

did you adjust anything in the rear?
when switching from a 13 to 14 sprocket you may have to add some slack to the chain from the adjusters.

 

[Blaner]

did you adjust anything in the rear?
when switching from a 13 to 14 sprocket you may have to add some slack to the chain from the adjusters.

X2, just slack off the chain at the back. loosen the axle carrier bolts, and adjust the chain tensioners on each wing of the swingarm.

 

[zmaro]

The back is stock. And I have loosened the chain as far as it seems to go. I did it like it shows in the owners manual, but don't quite understand what it means by "push the wheel forward" I have hit the axel with a rubber mallet to try and get it closer to the bike, therefore giving me more slack in the chain.

 

[Blaner]

I have hit the axel with a rubber mallet to try and get it closer to the bike, therefore giving me more slack in the chain.

did this work? if it's given you all its got then you will need to split the chain to get it on. check to see if you have a master link where you can split it, if not, you will need a chain splitter or use a small punch and lots of patience to do it. you shouldnt need to add a a link as when its on you will have a bit of slack, its just the getting it on part...

 

[98blaster+4]

okay , try this
while looking at the rear end of the bike, or the carrier, there are two tubes that run paralell to the axle , one on top of the axle carier and one on bottom. they each have a bolt that needs to be loosened, not removed.
then sticking out towards you there are 2 adjusters. without going cazy get them loose...remember to loosen the exact same amount or you loose your alignment .
you want to back them off untill the chain is loose enough to rock the axle assembly forward in the swingarm. reassembly is reverse of the loosening. just be sure the adjusters move evenly . tighten chain slack accordingly, the manual says 1- 1.5 inches of slack up and down on the loosest part of the chain

 

[GIXER7502006]

I think that 1 1/2 is not enuff i like more, like 2 1/2 to 3, if yur bigger or jump you will want the extra slack so not to ruin yur chain, biggest problem of chain wear is lube and ADJUSTMENT
And 98blaster is spot on

 

[recruiter101st]

I used a Pry bar in between the carrier to move the rear forward, I have plenty of slack. after sprocket is on just tighten nuts and bolts and adjust each side evenly

 

[Paulie B]

Easiest way to size a chain is to use the teeth on the rear sprocket.
Take off your master link, have the bottom side of the chain wrapped around half of it and (with the bike in neutral) pull the top half with your hand and match them up.
This makes putting the master link back on easy too.
If you can't pull it by hand tight enough to match them up on the sprocket and your adjusters are maxed out then you need to add a link.

 

[zmaro]

Thanks for the help, I got it on. Had to use a little penetrating oil to break it loose. Here are some pics.

I have a little corrosion on the stater, that normal?

 

[cole454]

That chain needs some tlc. Otherwise looks great.
Flywheel looks like some water got in there.

 

[Paulie B]

Might want to think about a new gasket. Other wise looks great!

 

[zmaro]

That chain needs some tlc. Otherwise looks great.
Flywheel looks like some water got in there.

Yeah the chain is the factory one from 1998 with over 5,000 miles on it.

 

[yames]

just roll the chain off the back sprocket put it on the front and roll it back on the back sprocket. just like a bicycle chain. of course you have to get the rear end slack.