Help me !! Important !!

Ny J MoTTz

New Member
Oct 21, 2011
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New York 10309
ok ill get to the point most of you know my story with my 97 blaster(black/yellow) that sat in my cousins garage since 97 without being started and i got it know.. i just finished up doing a complete oil change 10w-40 and just changed the spark plug (NGK) , i also cleaned the carb because when i opened the carb it was gunked up and the flaps were dirty and needed to be cleaned so i spraked carb cleaner and let it sit for 30-40 min and cleaned the little jet that was in the carb .. anyway after doing all this and making sure my bike got a spark i go to start and and nothing !! it wont start and its getting me pissed off now ... i must have tried to kick it 100 times plus and still nothing .. i dont even feel liek the more you kick it the more it sounds liek its gona start i feel liek its the same sound since kick 1.. any help ?? thanks in advance:(
 
Well first check for fuel. See if the engine is getting fuel. Kick it over a bunch of times and check the plug for wetness. Did you turn your fuel off when you took the carb off? And do a compression test if you can.
 
i have a full tank and i honestly feel liek it i remove the spark plug the bottom isnt wet is that normal? im deff gettin spark 100% and i am getting gas to the carb bc wen i remove the gas line to the carb and open the fuel it pours out of the hose.. what are reeds and wat do i check ?
 
you did mention compression!! good call.. be sure and check that as well.. should be greater than 120psi after kicking untill the guage stops with the throttle wide open.
 
Whats compression like, a motor standing that long will almost certainly be oil dry in the ring area, squirt a little 2 stroke oil in the plug hole.

The rings may also be gummed in the piston.

Did you clean out the choke curcuit, there should be some wetness of the plug after 100 kicks.

Is there any crap in the needle and seat assembly?
 
there are 4 bolts on the intake. once you take the carb off you can remove these 4 bolts and check the reeds out. they should all 4 tabs be holding fairly tight against the cage as to not let air escape but let air enter the engine.

you will need a compression tester to do this test. it screws into the sparkplug hole and measures pressure.
 
there are 4 bolts on the intake. once you take the carb off you can remove these 4 bolts and check the reeds out. they should all 4 tabs be holding fairly tight against the cage as to not let air escape but let air enter the engine.

you will need a compression tester to do this test. it screws into the sparkplug hole and measures pressure.

if this helps.. this bike was only started for 15 minutes completely in its life in 97 and put away till today.. no more the 15 minute run time.. what would i check out when i look at the reeds .. like what am i looking for?
 
Whats compression like, a motor standing that long will almost certainly be oil dry in the ring area, squirt a little 2 stroke oil in the plug hole.

The rings may also be gummed in the piston.

Did you clean out the choke curcuit, there should be some wetness of the plug after 100 kicks.

Is there any crap in the needle and seat assembly?

i did not clean out the choke circuit i dont know what that is.. an the needle in the carb is clean i cleaned it when i cleaned the carb
 
There are 3 things that will stop a 2 stroke from starting.

Compression , make sure you have at least 100 psi, do a compression check.

Spark at the prescribed time.

Fuel, if you have kicked it 100 times the plug should be some what wet.

IF the plug is not wet with fuel, do this once and once only: Sqirt a little 2 stroke oil into the plug hole and replace the plug. This should bring up the compression enough to start( unless the rings are completly gummed up.) You can use canned starter fluid, but i shy away from these with a 2 stroke because they contain no oil.
Pre mix a little fuel/oil at 25-32:1 and put it into an atomiser bottle and get a mate to squirt a couple of squirts into the carby with the air filter hose disconnected, while you kick it.

If it starts and then dies you have a carby, or air leak problem . If it keeps running. it could be a compression problem .

DO NOT DO THE ABOVE REPEATEDLY AS DAMAGE CAN OCCUR.
 
you need to clean all the passages in the carb, not just the bowl and 1 jet you mentioned, but all passages and jets
including the airscew/circut, pilot jet/circut, main jet/circut and float vavle assembly and choke circut, completely disassembled and cleaned
i think jlsparky has a vid on it, lemme look......................

here ya go

if spark is good, more than likely your troubles are still inside that carb

and after sitting that long i would definately eliminate the oil injection system, or positively confirm it is still working, before ever firing that bike again
it will possibly need primed to insure oil is in fact being injected, but i'd just ditch it and premix 32:1 with good motorcycle 2 stroke oil

heres some info on that, be positive to block off the inlet to the carb also, or it will introduce extra air and fry your piston..........

http://www.blasterforum.com/searchresults.php?cx=partner-pub-9438014176008015%3A9127094460&cof=FORID%3A9&q=oil+injection+&sa=Go
 
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Sitting that long you should comepletly disassemble carb and soak it, Berrymans carb cleaner is only about $20 for gallon. Have you tried starting fluid? One other thing to try as it has sat for a very long time, is there is a very good chance that a mouse has built a nest in the exhaust. Try either taking silencer off or take whole pipe off. It will not hurt to run this way tho you shouldn't ride without head pipe.
 
upon further thought...............

props to you for asking for help before you fry anything, and although we here can answer, help and guide you thru any situation that can and ever will arise on these bikes, alot of that depends on your knowledge and skills,
from your response questions above,
i believe that this bike, being in almost showroom condition, and this being a very rare condition it is in (new, but not run in years)
and considering your skill set <(we'll work on that)
i would take this bike straight to the dealership, or other reputable bike shop.
spend the few dollars and let them go thru the carb and oil injection system
to insure proper function, resulting in many years of enjoyment for you, or future owners
 
Lots of good suggestions so far. Start with all the basic stuff:

Key is 'on'
on/off switch is set to 'run'
verify you've got a strong spark
verify the fuel is getting into the carb (not just into the hose going to the carb). Is there fuel in the bowl when you remove the carb?
clean the carb and blow out all passages and jets with compressed air
replace your needle jet & seat (jet is attached to the floats and seat is what the jet goes down into). your needle is gotta be toast after sitting that long so buy a carb kit and replace. The carb kit will give some other fresh components you can swap into your carb if you want/need to. Just note that the carb kit will always have a stock main jet size only. This won't be a problem for you as you likely have the stock main as well.
disable your TORS (see DIY on how to unplug)
disable the oil injection system and pre-mix your fuel/oil to 32:1
clean and oil air filter
verify compression
do a leak-down test to see if you're sucking air from somewhere

You're on the right track and can get this thing running on your own with some patience. Use the right tools (no crescent wrenches or pliers on bolts... etc) and learn as you go, as I did.

Keep us posted on your progress.
 
your using 10w-40 motor oil in the bottom end?

that's not really good for the bottom end, it's a transmission down there not a crank shaft. you should be using gear oil of some kind.

after a few hours of riding it'll be a pain in the butt to shift gears using motor oil.