I was wondering if my back shock was bad. If I go to take off close to a curve my front don't want to stay on the ground so I can go around the turn quickly. This is the first 2 stroke I have had but dang the front just don't want to stay down. I thought maybe the rear shock is too weak maybe. Even if in a higher gear it will want to lift and push through the curve. The quad does run really good but I think its more than just power and it being so light. Thanks
Front raising easy
- Thread starter Jeff Bennett
- Start date
It is more likely that your front is out of alignment, the stock blaster shocks are not really adjustable, except for preload (you could turn up the rear preload). I would check the front end and make sure all the joints frame to a-arm, ball joints, tie rods and tie rod ends, steering shaft, are in good condition an move freely without any excessive slop.
Toe should be between 1/16 and 3/16ths of an inch toed in or pointing in at the front. To measure this: Straight with the handle bars straight.
First you strap a board 24 inches long or more level scross the front tires with the top of the board even with the center of the spindle shaft.
Then take a long rod, board or straight stick, or measuring tape and measure or mark from the inside of the board on tire 1 to the inside of the board on tire 2, at both the front and the back of the front t tires. The back measurement should be slightly longer than the front for toe in.
Visually they should both point straight, with the exception of pointing in ever so slightly if you look close enough.
I smell a How to measure and set front end alignment on a Blaster, with only basic tools DIY.
I am not sure what all you have rode in the past, but like many sport atvs the blaster, takes alot of front to rear balancing by the rider. Front a bent knee standing position get your self positioned so your "area" is almost flat again the back of the tank, you should
be able the squeeze the front part of the seat with the top of your thighs. Keep your weigt on your foot pegs as much as possible. This way you can lean you upper body forward, the middle of lower part of your ribcage should be over the bars ,once again you weight should be supported by the foot pegs, and by squeezing the top of the seat with your legs. You body should be somewhat stiff. This will help keep the front end down, without letting too much pressure off the back tires, and leave you in a position to adjust you weight forward or back ward as needed.
I am not a racer, but spent years riding quads and learned to throw around a 300 4x4, 300/400ex, Banshee, Predator on some pretty rough trails, during this time I weighted from 75lbs to about 95lbs and was riding daily. Anyhow someone with some competitive experience might know a better method, or be able to explain more clearly.
Sometimes getting around the curve fast, and keeping the front down requires more throttle or a lower gear to get the rear wheels spinning a little, that way they can slide around and help keep you pointed the right way while still pulling hard. The flat treaded or squared off looking tires do a better job of allowing a controllable slide while still putting down the power.
Other times you have to come into the curve a little hotter and right about the same time you grab the clutch to downshift, tap the rear brakes to get the rear end to pivot, once your pointed the right direction, just drop the hammer, with practice you can even let off the brake early, dump the clutch and use power to finish rotating that way you are rocketing out of the corner sooner.
As a rule sport quads require a little more agreesive riding style. They are so much lighter than their larger 4x4 and utility cousins that they really need the rider use their weight to hold them down (or up)
The stock Blaster shocks aren't that adjustable but they're some thing you can do. The rear shock has 2 large nuts near the bottom of the shaft that adjusts spring preload, if you add a little pre-load (move the nuts up) this will keep the rear from dropping and trying to pick up the front as much when you get on the gas. To adjust the preload on the front shocks you turn the piece under the lower spring seat. The taller notches increase preload, and tend to raise and stiffen the front. You need to play with these typically softer will hold the front down, but for a heavier rider it can allow the shock to compress enough that when you give it the gas the shock unloading will sort of work to spring the front end up. At least this is how I underdstand it. I depends alot on weight and riding style. Really you need to upgrade the shocks if you want enough adjustment to really make a difference.
Tire pressure can also effect how well the rear hooks up or slides in the corners, ideally you want to turn under braking whenever possible. Sometimes its just not possible to get enough weight on the front to hold it down, and/or enough power to the rear to spin the tires. In those cases you either have to ride it out, get off the gas, or catch the next gear.
When the trail is damp there is one particular uphill switchback, that is hard to get through quick without lifting the front before you are done turning. My options are to hold it down in second, bump the clutch right before the front lifts to finish the turn and hope 2nd tops out before the front gets too high, or hit it fast, catch 3rd and fan the clutch once your pointed the right way, slow down too much and you might have a hard time staying on the pipe.
I hope you find this info and stories usefull, it is accurate only to the best of my understanding, hopefully others will chime in and share their knowledge and experience.
Toe should be between 1/16 and 3/16ths of an inch toed in or pointing in at the front. To measure this: Straight with the handle bars straight.
First you strap a board 24 inches long or more level scross the front tires with the top of the board even with the center of the spindle shaft.
Then take a long rod, board or straight stick, or measuring tape and measure or mark from the inside of the board on tire 1 to the inside of the board on tire 2, at both the front and the back of the front t tires. The back measurement should be slightly longer than the front for toe in.
Visually they should both point straight, with the exception of pointing in ever so slightly if you look close enough.
I smell a How to measure and set front end alignment on a Blaster, with only basic tools DIY.
I am not sure what all you have rode in the past, but like many sport atvs the blaster, takes alot of front to rear balancing by the rider. Front a bent knee standing position get your self positioned so your "area" is almost flat again the back of the tank, you should
be able the squeeze the front part of the seat with the top of your thighs. Keep your weigt on your foot pegs as much as possible. This way you can lean you upper body forward, the middle of lower part of your ribcage should be over the bars ,once again you weight should be supported by the foot pegs, and by squeezing the top of the seat with your legs. You body should be somewhat stiff. This will help keep the front end down, without letting too much pressure off the back tires, and leave you in a position to adjust you weight forward or back ward as needed.
I am not a racer, but spent years riding quads and learned to throw around a 300 4x4, 300/400ex, Banshee, Predator on some pretty rough trails, during this time I weighted from 75lbs to about 95lbs and was riding daily. Anyhow someone with some competitive experience might know a better method, or be able to explain more clearly.
Sometimes getting around the curve fast, and keeping the front down requires more throttle or a lower gear to get the rear wheels spinning a little, that way they can slide around and help keep you pointed the right way while still pulling hard. The flat treaded or squared off looking tires do a better job of allowing a controllable slide while still putting down the power.
Other times you have to come into the curve a little hotter and right about the same time you grab the clutch to downshift, tap the rear brakes to get the rear end to pivot, once your pointed the right direction, just drop the hammer, with practice you can even let off the brake early, dump the clutch and use power to finish rotating that way you are rocketing out of the corner sooner.
As a rule sport quads require a little more agreesive riding style. They are so much lighter than their larger 4x4 and utility cousins that they really need the rider use their weight to hold them down (or up)
The stock Blaster shocks aren't that adjustable but they're some thing you can do. The rear shock has 2 large nuts near the bottom of the shaft that adjusts spring preload, if you add a little pre-load (move the nuts up) this will keep the rear from dropping and trying to pick up the front as much when you get on the gas. To adjust the preload on the front shocks you turn the piece under the lower spring seat. The taller notches increase preload, and tend to raise and stiffen the front. You need to play with these typically softer will hold the front down, but for a heavier rider it can allow the shock to compress enough that when you give it the gas the shock unloading will sort of work to spring the front end up. At least this is how I underdstand it. I depends alot on weight and riding style. Really you need to upgrade the shocks if you want enough adjustment to really make a difference.
Tire pressure can also effect how well the rear hooks up or slides in the corners, ideally you want to turn under braking whenever possible. Sometimes its just not possible to get enough weight on the front to hold it down, and/or enough power to the rear to spin the tires. In those cases you either have to ride it out, get off the gas, or catch the next gear.
When the trail is damp there is one particular uphill switchback, that is hard to get through quick without lifting the front before you are done turning. My options are to hold it down in second, bump the clutch right before the front lifts to finish the turn and hope 2nd tops out before the front gets too high, or hit it fast, catch 3rd and fan the clutch once your pointed the right way, slow down too much and you might have a hard time staying on the pipe.
I hope you find this info and stories usefull, it is accurate only to the best of my understanding, hopefully others will chime in and share their knowledge and experience.
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That makes sense. I haven't really ridden many sport quads. I used to have a 87trx250x when it was new and I have ridden a couple of 400ex's but this thing just wants to push through turns if on throttle at all. I am 210 pounds, I do move up on the seat but wasn't really on the bars, but that makes a lot of sense to keep some weight up there. Its not nearly as bad on dirt as it is on hard top, which I can turn with the rear too on dirt with the throttle but on hard to, I am afraid of hooking and landing on my back. At 44 years old, it takes longer to heal. lol. I am surfing this forum and the net for shock info and shocks. I will probably look for some sled shocks for front and a 400ex shock for the rear. that should help too I would say. I will say, I have never ridden anything that is so peppy and the power to weight ration is crazy on these blasters. I usually am a utility quad guy who likes putting through the woods and mud looking at all the trees, deer, squirrels and all that stuff but sometimes I need a little adrenaline boost to get the blood pumping!
Hey check back I edited and added to the top of my post info on checking the front end.
I hear ya on that healing up, I am chasing you in age by just under ten years, but the first time I had the blaster out on the trails for a few hours, I was sore for days later.
Blasters are know to be a little short, taller tires, the 400ex shock (1.5 inch lift) helps, most people prefer a +2, or even a +4 swing arm on the rear, being a little longer usually helps the most.
I hear ya on that healing up, I am chasing you in age by just under ten years, but the first time I had the blaster out on the trails for a few hours, I was sore for days later.
Blasters are know to be a little short, taller tires, the 400ex shock (1.5 inch lift) helps, most people prefer a +2, or even a +4 swing arm on the rear, being a little longer usually helps the most.
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Cool trick, I will check that tomorrow. Everything is moving freely and tight. I just took it all apart and painted everything and rebuilt the engine. I won a 03+ rear end on here from fred (dirtysquared) and it works awesome!
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