dmc alien on the way

as far as the air screw. do i just run it in till it gets tight and the go the one and half from there to start with. This bike has been a hack job from the beginning jus want to make sure its like it should be..thanks

yes, turn it in till it just bottoms out, not too tight, then back out 1.5 turns
 
yes, turn it in till it just bottoms out, not too tight, then back out 1.5 turns

Thanks man. hopefully i get this thing worked out tomorrow. the link you sent about jetting was really good read lots of info. On a side not ive got the mount fabbed up for the master cylinder to do the hydraulic back brakes getting ready to work on the caliber bracket if i cant get tunning fixed tommorrow.
 
also just wondering when i took the carb apart to change the needle it was all the way on the top. Is that the stock location if not why would the clip have been moved up there what were they trying to accomplish with that
 
also just wondering when i took the carb apart to change the needle it was all the way on the top. Is that the stock location if not why would the clip have been moved up there what were they trying to accomplish with that

stock position is in the middle, and again...has worked on 5 different pipes now, incuding the stock pipe.
the P.O. was a de-da-dee :eek:
 
The float level and idle adjustment must be correct as it can affect up to and including 1/2throttle.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
on this bike the tors has been removed but the stock carb and cap are still in use do i not need to mess with the big screw and just use the small air screw since the TORS is disabled. thanks for the help
 
you still use the idle adjustment on top of the tors for rpm adjustment.
but the airscrew will still need adjusted, by finding high idle as described in the "adjusting airscrew" thread, you are adjusting the amount of air supplied to the pilot jet circut to correct the air fuel ratio for your bikes exact needs at idle to around 1/4-1/2 throttle.
 
The float level and idle adjustment must be correct as it can affect up to and including 1/2throttle.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
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so i pulled the carb today to give it a cleaning and move the needle clip to the middle position. I made two discoveries, first upon cleaning the car my hand got covered in a gray sticky substance of some kind wonder what that could have been. Second on the needle there is what i call a plastic washer that sits on top of the c-clip, but there is none that sits down in the slide should there be one there and if so, is it essential or should i stop order the washer and wait..thanks for the help
 
i thought it took a plastic washer below and above the needle clip ? (been a while since i fooled with my stock carb)
but the diagram shows only 1, #13 above the clip......

34ov990.jpg
 
so i installed the dmc, new vitos dual stage reeds, uni airfilter in the stock box, put a 310 main jet in and moved the needle to the 5th spot like the instructions said. .

so i pulled the carb today to give it a cleaning and move the needle clip to the middle position. I made two discoveries, first upon cleaning the car my hand got covered in a gray sticky substance of some kind wonder what that could have been. Second on the needle there is what i call a plastic washer that sits on top of the c-clip, but there is none that sits down in the slide should there be one there

Did you not clean the carb when you had it off yesterday?

Are you mixing two different types of 2 stroke oils?
 
No I did not clean it during the initial install everything was running good so didn't see the reason. I checked the float level today it was fine. Put the clip in the middle. Now the thing won't even start. If you push the gas while you are kicking it. It sounds like a four stroke. Checked the spark its getting spark. I'm stumped. Thanks guys
 
No I did not clean it during the initial install everything was running good so didn't see the reason. I checked the float level today it was fine. Put the clip in the middle. Now the thing won't even start. If you push the gas while you are kicking it. It sounds like a four stroke. Checked the spark its getting spark. I'm stumped. Thanks guys

unless you're pushing the throttle lever, which you should not have to do, the needle has nothing to do with starting, that is handled by the pilot/airscrew and choke circuts only.

is the plug wet ???
try a new plug, they can foul instantly.
crack the bowl drain and see if the bowl is even getting fuel ?
sounds like the floats may now be stuck closed ?
try tapping the side of the carb with a screwdriver handle to jar them floats into operation ?
 
I made two discoveries, first upon cleaning the car my hand got covered in a gray sticky substance of some kind wonder what that could have been.

This concerns me, you may have to trace the source of this gooey stuff, it has prolly gummed everything up again.