Crankcase repair

[oldschoolyfs]

Hi all.
I am new to the forum and recently bought a 2000 Blaster to ride along with my daughter. She owns a Predator 90.

My transmission chain broke and cracked the left side case. Is there any way to fix this without having to take the engine into pieces? Gearbox oil is coming out and soaking the magnetic wheel.
I have read so many opinions here, but i am still confused. What do you guys think?
Many thanks.

 

[blasDa]

Ouch. Someone with more experience than I will chime in about whether it can be repaired or not. All I would suggest is looking into one of the Ken O'connor racing case savers. Cheap little part that could save a lot of future headaches!

 

[joeak47]

You'll have to disassemble the engine and split the case to repair it properly. Sure, jb weld will work for a quick getto fix, but seriously...

 

[jus_me]

^^^ You might get a little time with a jb weld fix, how long is anyone's guess. Good thing is blaster cases are interchangeable left and right meaning you don't need matching cases ,so you can pick up one side or the other if you need. If you trust someone that can weld cast alum than you should be OK also.. Just make sure no chunks went up into and bounced around to cause crank probs. If it's a yard beater,, jb welder up and just leak test to check she's not leaking to badly to run to lean. Just my .02....

 

[dirtysquared]

I'd change that case half out. Being sure about something is a lot better than always having a little constant worry in your head

 

[Herpderplol]

Change the case or have a welder look at it and see if they could possibly repair it.

Also look into getting a case saver from oconnor racing.
does what its called, your chain snaps, it save the case by not allowing it to hit it

 

[Awk08]

that appears to be broken thu into the transmission or clutch actuator area, not the crank area.
I prefer Quicksteel over JB Weld (Junk Bunk)

if you go that route, you'll need to be 100% sure that area is free of all oil/grease, scuff it up with some heavy grit sandpaper, and be 300% sure no epoxy putty gets into the case or clutch actuator areas.

if it's only thru to the clutch actuator area ? patch it from both sides and work the clutch as it hardens to be sure it doesn't lock up the rod. or remove the actuator and insert a very close fit dowel rod to temporarily block the epoxy from entering that area.

 

[oldschoolyfs]

Its in the clutch actuator. But the gear oil comes out from that hole.
I will hear what the welder will say. If he cant weld it, ill try the Jb Weld or similar.
The bike is for weekend rides only. Not a yard beater.
I just dont know how well those epoxys handle vibrations.

 

[Awk08]

I just dont know how well those epoxys handle vibrations.

I have an engine here with quicksteel in that same area, it wasn't thru into the trans area, it was up where the clutch actuator return spring goes and into the flywheel cover area. that quicksteel has been on there for 4/5 years now

 

[oldschoolyfs]

What about alumiweld?

 

[jus_me]

The stuff Awk posted (quicksteel) I have had inside of the crankcase and intake for almost 2 years now and it looks the same as the day I put it in. It is actually in a spot where there is more vibration than anywhere else (just outside the Reed cage). If you do end up using it than make sure the area is roughed up good and clean from all oil and dirt etc...