Check this out !!!!!

That looks cool but I wonder how good it really works. Dose it prevent your quad from overheating under full throttle for more than like 10-20 seconds? This sounds like a question for flotek or wild card.
 
it works on a thermo-siphon principle...you have to mout the radiator fairly high, and since ht water rises and cold water sinks... not very effecient, and your not going to gain anything.

Phragle is wrong because the kit dose come with a water pump.
 
it's loosely based on a setup they made for the old air cooled odesseys...they got poor airflow and needed all the help they could get.... and if your blaster is overheating after 30 seconds, you have something jacked. I ran strong motors with tall gears and routinely ran 5 miles + WFO with no overheating problems. I have lost 1 top end in the last 15 years, and that was a cold sieze in a new top end, that had a taper in the bore. I have exploded my share of clutches and transmissions.. but with proper setup and egt...theres no reason you cant hold it open.
 
yeah it uses a small pump...idk in my opinion it is a good design (dont know about the combustion chamber design? squish and cc?)...but i dont see any real benefits from running it other than the "trick" factor...if there was a full jug that was liquid cooled than that would be sweet...but just a head...nothin special imo...better things to spend money on. And the performance gain, if any, wouldnt be enough to offset the ~8 extra lbs of gear your addin between the radiator and water. If you guy are having trouble with overheating, check your jetting, probably too lean. But good product and im sure it works as described, simple concept
 
It is a very neat idea, but I'm not sold on the design do to the lack of information given in the website. They give no information on the pump system and show no info on the design of the inside of the head. The best gain I see is possibly the chamber design of the dome. That is only given that whoever is cutting the dome understands what they are doing. Given that you can have your stock head chamber modified for @ $60 the water cooled concept is not enough to justify myself purchasing one. The system would likely add a substantial amount of weight and as phagle pointed out, a properly tuned blaster should have no overheating issues.
 
I'm not haaveing a trouble overheating but its common fact you cant hold a air cooled motor wide upen as long as you can hold a water cooled motor wide open. if you have a problem with that take your blaster and hold it wide open in nautrel for over a minute and tell me you dont rewin a piston and rings.
 
not to mention..how many people on here actually have there motors jetted CORRECTLY. if you jetted close but safe, running around 1100 at wot and your needle is one clip off..it's going run fine for that minute, but the second you let off your gonna stick it.
 
i really don't think its better than air cooled, think of hte added weight, not work it, i have a lot of hours into jetting mine, i also had a guy with me that has been working on yamas and honda for over 30 yrs, helping, so mine is jetted correctly, i can happily run mine wot and not worry about frying my topend :)
 
i have thought about liquid cooling for the balster before...
of there was a way to wind some copper piping ,or whatever type of tubing that would take the heat , around the head inside of the fins somehow. wish i was more mechanical or id try it myself.
 
Hell why not bolt on a dt200 head and cylinder,lol.


Heck, i'm going to bolt the tri-z cylinder to the blaster motor