Bottom end rebuild

Herpderplol

BRRAAAAAAAAAPP
Aug 22, 2012
6,290
496
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Dickinson, ND
I know this should have been one the same time i did the top end, but im looking to redo the bottom end now...

It seems that it sprung an airleak since i put the top end on (held before i first rode it) that was probably the cause of the weird sound

What im looking for, parts i need...

Crank bearings/seals
Engine oil seal kit

and tools i need

Fly wheel puller
crankcase splitter (homemade, i check the threads http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/diy-crank-puller-43994/)

I dont understand exactly how to split the cases, but i know you guys help a lot.

I also need a clutch cable while im ordering parts... Mine broke on saturday, although i had giz's in my blaster in 2 minutes flat, i had to give it back to him :p . My first one, hes broke... 5-6 now? lol

Is there anything else i need? im watching kens videos on assembling the motor.

What kind of gaskets will i need? Where can i find OEM/koyo/wiseco crank bearings? I figured all balls would work, but he said in the video only koyo or wiseco.

Heres what i got so far...
flywheel puller Tusk Flywheel Puller | UTV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
seals Tusk Engine Oil Seal Kit | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC


Or is it best just to order it all from ken?

I see now that he has the bearings and seal kit...
 
Herp are you going to send the crank out to get rebuilt also? Those bearings seals and gaskets are probably best bought from Ken's site since you know he has them and recommends them. Your going to need some kind of case bond too( yamabond). Get a impact screwdriver and hex head case bolts too. Just take your time and pay attention to detail. I've found that If I keep notes on what I'm working on, I have a easier time, overall on the job.
Where did you pop an air leak at??

Fred
 
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Do you know exactly where the air leak is coming from? I would try to avoid splitting the cases unless you absolutly need to. But if you decide to, here's a list of parts you will need for the bottom end.
Full gasket set/ oil seal kit/2 snap rings for the idler gear/ and 2 lock washers,1 for both the clutch basket and counter balancer/ silcone sealer or case bond for the case halves/ stainless engine bolt set( easy to tourqe to spec and won't strip out like the philips head bolts). And while you are in there be sure to inspect all bearings both crank and transmission. ( bearings can be purchased at your local yamaha dealership) If the bearings roll smoothly and there is no play in the inner race and ball assembly there's no need to replace them, if you run into worn bearings you'll need a propane or mapp gas torch(I reccomend mapp gas becouse it burns almost twice as hot as propane) to heat the case so the bearings can be removed.that is the easy part LOL
When putting new bearings in, be sure to put them in the freezer for at least an hour to slightly shrink them. Then when u decide to put the bearing in, have the case heated to at least 220farenheit (use infered heat gun if you have one) and QUICKLY but GENTLY Insert the chilled bearing in the heated bore of the case.(aluminum dissipates heat quickly so be quick but careful) Be sure you DONT get it misaligned in the case or chances are it will be damaged when trying to remove it. DO NOT hit the inner race of new bearings when installing, it will damage them, if they need a little help to completly seat,use a socket the size of the outside diameter of the bearing or a bushing driver if you have one. If you have anymore questions dont hesitate to ask! GOOD LUCK! I:I
 
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The only specialised tool you need to replace the seals is a flywheel puller.

A good set of wrenches and screwdrivers and a dry wall screw or two is all you need to do the job.